1999 Undhof Salomon Pfaffenberg Riesling, Krems, Austria

Austrian Rieslings are still the best-kept secret in the world of wines. They’re complex, endlessly interesting whites with a startlingly vivid range of aromas.

In 1999, the wine country southeast of Vienna had its best vintage in a decade. That year Undhof Salomon’s estate--near Krems, bordering on the more famous Wachau region--made a textbook Riesling with a fine gossamer texture, a fresh snap to the taste and a touch of citrus in the finish. Like most Austrian Rieslings, it is tremendously food-friendly, great with asparagus risotto or a coq au Riesling.

About $20. Available at Wine House in West L.A., Woodland Hills Wine Company and Wine Exchange in Orange. Or have your local retailer contact the distributor, Terry Theise, at (510) 848-6879.