Albondigas Make the Perfect Combination

Samaniego Meats in East Los Angeles has a tiny restaurant corner with a few tables and food for takeout. The selection is greatest on weekends, but one day during the week, the steam table was loaded with albondigas--big, puffy meatballs made with beef, rice and onion, sitting in a colorful mix of potatoes, carrots, chayote and zucchini. Orders come with beans, rice, tortillas and very hot red salsa.

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Albondigas combination, $3.99 at Samaniego Meats, 3611 Cesar E. Chavez Ave. (corner of Rowan Avenue), East Los Angeles. (213) 263-5306.