Wine of the Week

In recent years, Gallo has worked hard to change its image from the producer of Hearty Burgundy to producer of well-crafted estate wines from their Alexander Valley property in Sonoma. With the 1997 Cabernet from Barrelli Creek Vineyard, they're going for a leaner, more graceful Cab. The Gallo family's younger generation has the smarts to go for something other than a blockbuster style. The 1997 exhibits gorgeous bright fruit with hints of spice and plums, yet it's marvelously focused and restrained.

This medium-bodied red would be terrific with grilled lamb chops or a good steak--the two classics that show off a Cabernet best.

About $25. Available at most fine wine retailers.

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