Quiche, Hold the Crust

When I was testing a friend’s recipe for a simple version of Quiche Lorraine, I tried making it once without the crust, just to see how the custard worked. It turned out that I liked it better than when it was served in the traditional tart form.

After all, a quiche is nothing more than a savory custard baked in a tart shell (which, because of the moisture in the filling, sometimes turns out soggy and tough). The basic custard consists of eggs, milk and cheese, but you can add one or two more things, such as cooked chopped bacon, sliced mushrooms, ham or chopped cooked onion.

This recipe comes from my friend Sharon Kramis. She serves it with a tart relish that I think balances the quiche perfectly. To make it, chop 3 celery stalks and 2 tart apples (unpeeled). Toss them with a dressing of 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar and a little salt. The relish balances the quiche perfectly.

Crustless Quiche Lorraine

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

5 slices bacon, optional

1/2 pound Gruyere cheese

4 eggs

1 1/2 cups half-and-half

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a pie pan (one that holds 2 cups of liquid).

Stack the bacon slices and cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Heat a skillet over medium heat and spread the bacon pieces in one layer in the skillet. Cook, turning them over after 2 or 3 minutes. When the bacon looks brown around the edges, it is almost to the crisp stage. Using a fork, remove the bacon pieces to drain on paper towels.

Using a hand grater, grate the cheese onto a piece of wax paper. Press the cheese into a measuring cup; it doesn’t need to be packed firmly, but press down so you have a generous 1 1/2 cups.

Mix the eggs and half-and-half using a fork or rotary beater until they are all one color.

Spread the bacon over the bottom of the pie pan. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top. Pour the egg mixture over the bacon and cheese. Bake the quiche until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Let the quiche sit 5 minutes, then cut it into 4 pieces. Use a spatula to gently lift each piece onto a serving plate.

4 servings. Each serving: 492 calories; 475 mg sodium; 312 mg cholesterol; 39 grams fat; 21 grams saturated fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 29 grams protein; 0 fiber.

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Cunningham is a cookbook author.