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Designer Kevan Hall Is Back on His Own--With a Twist

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TIMES FASHION WRITER

If he hadn’t gone into fashion, Kevan Hall, formerly Halston’s creative and design director, might have been the next Pavarotti. Hall, in the business for 22 years and now on his own with a new atelier, laughs, embarrassed at confessing he sings Puccini in the shower.

But the graduate of L.A.’s Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising is not shy about showing off his upcoming fall and winter collection--his first signature line since leaving Halston two years ago. His wife, Deborah Lee Hall, offers guests Snapple, strawberry-blended cheese and crackers and then slips away to pick up their kids, Asia, 11, and Evan, 6.

A model pivots and poses inside the spacious Beverly Boulevard showroom painted in colors that Hall calls “white chocolate and truffle,” perfect for the French-vanilla-hued carpet. Designed by architect Joe Addo and interior designer Jenny Armit, the atelier is furnished with reproductions of 1930s designer Jean Michel Frank, who inspired Hall’s collection.

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* How fitting: The Hall shawl, his newest creation, is a satin or velvet wrap with camouflaged elasticized elbow straps that keep the shawl perfectly in place. “Now a woman can hold onto her drink, handbag and man without fussing over her shawl.”

* Look book: Hall resurrects his iconic twist knot on blouses and dresses and uses the cable-knit design in mix-and-match separates for daytime and night. There are cashmere twin sets and sweater coats with fox trim; leather skirts and pants; satin and beaded pants; wide-lapeled collarless jackets that come in brushed tweed or tuxedo style; and gowns in matte jersey, velvets and beads. Colors: ruby, blue, sage, camel, alabaster and black. Prices: $500 to $3,800. Custom begins at $3,000.

* Girl talk: “The modern woman wants separates. It’s easy. It’s about lifestyle dressing. It’s not just an L.A. thing. I make clothes for the needs of a woman. I’m focused on putting that aesthetic--not hype--in front of a woman.”

* Guy style: “I’m into lots of cotton sweaters and lean, sleek trousers or jeans and vintage jackets. I practically live in a brown Donegal tweed English riding jacket that I got at a vintage show in New York. Paid less than $100 for it, but people always stop me when I have that jacket on.”

* Designer envy: “I identify with Madeleine Vionnet, a French designer, because of the fluidity of her draping, she was known for the way she shaped and fitted a garment.”

* Food fix: “When it comes to junk food--Pink’s hot dogs [in Hollywood]--the Polish sausage with chili. Make that extra chili.”

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* Personally speaking: “I’m back. I’m not afraid of anything. I’m an optimist. I always know that something good will come out of every situation. I think that comes from the way I was brought up. My dad, Curtis, who lives in Michigan, is my hero. He taught me integrity.”

* Motto: “God first.”

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