Wine of the Week

Winemaker Yves Gras is best known for his stunning old-vine Gigondas, Les Hautes Garrigues, but his regular Gigondas is pretty terrific too. Made from a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre, it has a magical, evocative perfume of plums, earth and smoke. It tastes of raspberries and juicy red plums. Don’t worry if you don’t get around to drinking it immediately. This one will age beautifully.

It’s perfect with grilled duck breast, pigeon and other game, but would also show well against a simple roast chicken or beef daube with olives. Save a little for the cheese course.

Domaine Santa Duc has long been an insider’s wine, snatched off the shelves as soon as it comes into this country. Fortunately, it’s becoming more available.

About $27. Available at Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Conejo Wine and Provision in Thousand Oaks, (805) 496-1324; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wally’s in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.