In Westwood, a First Taste of Summer

The heat’s on in the San Joaquin Valley, and after a month of so-so “season-starter” stone fruit, better varieties are arriving every week. Apricots, Pluots, Apriums and white peaches were all in abundance at the Thursday Westwood farmers market.

For Pluots, try Flavorosas like those grown by Robert Mizuno of Reedley. They have sweet, juicy red flesh and a touch of astringency in the skin. Apriums are another plum-apricot hybrid, this time with the accent on the apricot. Flavor Annes, like the ones brought by Orosi’s Ken Lee, are darker, denser and juicier than most early apricots. So are Honey Riches like the ones sold at the Pritchett stand out of Visalia.

Mizuno’s Jordanne apricots are also good, much better than the Castlebrites--beautifully blushed but bland--that are everywhere right now. The much-loved Blenheims, the cream of the apricot crop, won’t be here until the end of the month.

Early white peaches are also in the market now, but the Spring Snows that Lee had, though lusciously ripe, were mild in flavor--like most of the new low-acid varieties. Many people prefer this style because it seems sweeter even when the peach is not picked at the peak of ripeness. By July, tastier varieties should be available.

There’s good produce coming out of Southern California as well. Melons and sweet corn are being harvested in the desert by farms such as Kelomar, which works several large tracts near Brawley. It’s got red, orange and yellow seedless watermelons right now, along with aromatic cantaloupes and super-sweet Bicolor corn.

Nearer the coast, there’s a new crop of Valencia oranges being picked, such as those brought by Bob Polito of Valley Center. They’re good now, but will be at their peak in another month. Polito, a citrus specialist, also has agretti, a traditional Italian spring vegetable with chive-like tubes and a flavor hinting at beet leaves and chard. Agretti are good blanched and dressed with olive oil and lemon juice.

Keep an eye out for zucchini blossoms, too, like the ones sold at Lompoc’s Suncoast stand. They’re good simply dipped in an egg-flour batter and fried.

Another seasonal vegetable highlight are new potatoes, such as the creamy French fingerlings brought by Weiser Family Farms in Edison, so fresh that their skins were peeling off. They’ve also got Russian Banana fingerlings in two sizes, small and tiny--the latter made possible by their new ultra-fine harvester from Germany.

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Westwood farmers market, Weyburn Avenue between Westwood Boulevard and Tiverton Avenue, Thursdays 1 to 7 p.m.