Tiramisu

Mix in Marsala

To make the complex filling for Antonello’s tiramisu, chef Franco Barone folds together zabaglione (egg yolks, sugar and Marsala whipped over a fire), beaten egg whites and imported mascarpone cheese enriched with cream. He builds the tiramisu from three layers of ladyfingers (soaked in espresso and more Marsala), alternating with filling. It’s served in a ramekin or a martini glass, resting in mocha creme anglaise, dusted with cocoa powder and topped with fresh berries. (Tiramisu, $7.50.)

Antonello, South Coast Plaza Village, 1611 W. Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 751-7153.

For teetotalers

At Chianti Cucina, no alcohol goes into the tiramisu; the ladyfingers are soaked in espresso alone. The tiramisu consists of a single layer of ladyfingers arranged in an individual ramekin, covered with mascarpone beaten with eggs and heavy cream until very light and smooth and dusted with cocoa powder. (Tiramisu, $6.75.)

Chianti Cucina, 7383 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 653-8333.

In a teacup

Chef-owner Frank Leon makes a very soft and creamy tiramisu at La Loggia. He soaks the ladyfingers in coffee liqueur and mixes mascarpone with whole eggs, heavy cream and a sliver of cream cheese (for consistency). Then he assembles individual portions in teacups, alternating three layers of ladyfingers with mascarpone until it reaches the rim of the cup. Finally he sprinkles cocoa over the top and places half a ladyfinger on the side. (Tiramisu, $5.50.)

La Loggia, 11814 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 985-9222.

-- Jessica Strand