Techniques for antiques

First, the good news: When caring for antique furniture, it’s possible to do too much. Many experts say that character lines, natural patinas and tarnished hardware enhance a fine antique. Having it restored to “mint” condition, especially if not authentically, causes furniture dealers to gasp, shake their heads and point you to the door.

But there are some chores that will add to the appearance, longevity and value of an heirloom.

Dusting is, of course, the first one. It’s important to keep surfaces free of abrasive particles that dull surfaces and settle into grooves. Though some experts prefer a feather duster, most recommend a soft, lint-free cotton cloth. Philip Stites of Therien & Co., which has antique galleries in Los Angeles and San Francisco, favors shoe cloths or diapers. Others think cheesecloth, soft dish towels or chamois are good choices. If using an old T-shirt, a piece of flannel or other discarded clothing, make sure there aren’t any snaps, buttons, zippers or thick seams that could leave marks. When wiping, follow the grain of the wood.

You can moisten the cloth with a few drops of water to make the dust stick to the cloth. But be careful: Too much liquid and the wood will swell, warp or stain. It can also lift veneers, stretch leather and promote mildew in padding. Avoid it completely on delicate finishes.

Stites tells his clients to throw away commercial furniture sprays and polishes, especially cleaners that contain silicone, which can damage the finish. He applies beeswax twice a year to hydrate the wood, provide a layer of protection, deflect dust and leave a soft sheen. He suggests using clear beeswax sold at most hardware stores, which won’t alter the wood’s stain as will black- or walnut-colored waxes.

For pieces that don’t have a fragile lacquer, gilded or painted surface, or a French polish with layers of shellac, all of which require a professional’s care, Stites uses triple-zero steel wool to work the wax into the grain. He lets the wax dry for 15 minutes, then hand buffs it with a soft cloth, moving in the direction of the grain.

And don’t be lazy. You need to wax all the wood, not just what is seen by guests. That means the underside, inside, legs, drawers and shelf glides. (While you’re there, check for sawdust piles left by woodworms. If you find them, a furniture fumigator can help.)

Direct sun and temperature spikes can create splits, cracks and lines. They can also pop veneers and loosen joints. Keep the climate and humidity even to prevent wood from imitating an accordion, that is, shrinking, expanding, shrinking, expanding. Wood likes to be in a room that is about 70 degrees and a relative humidity of about 50%. Keep it away from fireplaces and heat and air-conditioning vents, or use a shield to deflect blown air. Bowls of water and houseplants can add humidity to the room.

Fog and mist are fine for wood, but they can rust fittings not made of bronze, and they can make inlaid wood pop out of place. To shine most hardware, use silver or brass polish. For bronze pieces, a mild white vinegar on a soft cloth works, says Stites. Remove the pieces or slide plastic behind them, so the cleaner doesn’t touch the finish.

Wood soaks up smells, so go easy with mothballs and scented items. Stites received an antique armoire that traveled from Hong Kong to L.A. with kimchi stored in it. “We tried everything from rosemary branches to incense to scrubbing the wood,” he says. “No matter what we did, we couldn’t get rid of the stench. The piece was fine, unless you opened the door.”

What to place on your furniture? Coasters, pads, cloths or runners to protect against spills and water rings. Put brown felt under lamps and decorative items.

And don’t let plastic tablecloths and toys near your fine piece. The plastic can leach into wood and leave an imprint.