2002 Monchhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett

German wine labels are long-winded, admittedly, but German wines are almost the perfect whites for Southern California’s climate. This one is worth seeking out for summer drinking. A Riesling from Weingut Monchhof, which has made wine in the Mosel village of Urzig for more than eight centuries, it tastes like a tropical fruit from an island not yet discovered. There’s something complex and marvelous, really a sort of alchemy at work, in the Erdener Treppchen Kabinett’s exquisite balance of sweet to tart. And its 8% alcohol content is a wonderful asset on a hot summer day.

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Quick swirl

Region: Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany

Price: About $13.99

Style: Delicate and floral

Food it goes with: Steamed mussels, Chinese chicken salad, Asian dishes.

Where you find it: Wine Street in Carlsbad, (760) 431-8455; Vintage Wines Limited in San Diego, (858) 549-2112; Wine Country in Long Beach, (562)597-8303; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 or (800) 76WINEX; and the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

--S. Irene Virbila