When stains are etched in stone

The ubiquity of stone as a building material might lead you to assume that it is a maintenance-free addition to your home. This couldn’t be further from the truth.

Stone is actually a fairly fragile material. Anyone who has ever tried to get a grease stain out of an unsealed slate floor knows this intimately. Stone surfaces that come straight from the earth to your doorstep are highly susceptible to scratching, etching, pitting and staining from common materials, including something as innocuous as water or juice. Unsealed stone is highly porous and will absorb liquids and grime faster than you might think. Preparation and perspiration are important to maintaining the natural character of your stone surface.

Sealing your stone surfaces is key. Whether you have a professional stone contractor apply commercial sealants or you do it yourself, this first step is a must. Most stone surfaces do not arrive at your home pre-sealed. This step is usually done after installation and actually is quite an easy process. To determine whether a stone surface needs to be sealed, stone care professional Claude Bunkow of Architectural Stone Design Inc. suggests putting your fingers in a bowl of water and sprinkling them over the stone surface. If the water doesn’t bead up, you need to seal your surface.

Companies such as StoneTech Professional or Miracle Sealants provide chemical products designed for various types of stone surfaces. Commercial sealants are usually formulated according to the porousness of specific materials. For example, travertine and limestone are more porous than marbles and granites. Also, pay careful attention to the toxicity warning labels on sealants; surfaces that will be used as kitchen countertops for food preparation and for vanities or bathroom sinks should be sealed with nontoxic products.

Once you’ve sealed your stone surface, half of your household battle has been won. But you’re not off the hook yet. The enemies of all stone surfaces are grit and dirt. Imagine rubbing sandpaper over your polished marble floor a hundred times a day. That’s just what you’re doing when you walk on an unclean stone floor.

Step 1 in the battle against dirt is simple; place floor mats at all entrances to your house. An average of eight stomps of your feet per entry should do the trick and cut down the amount of grit tracked in. Step 2: Use a dry dust mop once a day on floors. A vacuum cleaner is a risky choice; the wheels and inner mechanics can scratch polished stone.

After your daily dry dust mopping, a once-a-week wet cleaning of your stone flooring is a great idea. But be certain that all dust and grit have been dry-mopped before your wet mop hits the ground, or you’ll just be rubbing wet dirt around.

Combine warm water and a mild dish soap in a bucket; after mopping, make certain the floor is properly dried, as excess moisture can leave marks. For bathroom and kitchen marble and granite, try mixing one part fabric softener and two parts water. Apply it to surfaces with a sponge, wipe dry and polish with a soft cloth. It will smell great to boot.

If soap and water, or soap and fabric softener, don’t get rid of those stubborn stains, try using a sprinkling of 20 Mule Team Borax or baking soda (or commercial marble polish) and rub gently with a damp sponge. Be sure to continually monitor your progress, as these materials can scratch.

Never use acidic products such as vinegar or lemon juice to clean any kind of stone. They will etch and pit a stone surface, even if it has been sealed. In addition, never use a scouring product such as Comet, and avoid all solvent-based cleaners.

Don’t set drinks on stone surfaces without a coaster, and don’t set very hot dishes on countertops without something in between the stone and the pot; it seems counterintuitive, but stone is susceptible to burn marks.

Stains are a fact of life and cannot be avoided. Common stains such as coffee or tea can be removed by combining powdered whiting (available in the paint section of the hardware store) and rust remover, applying the mixture over the stain, covering it with plastic wrap and taping the edges with masking tape. Let this sit for 15 minutes, buff, polish and reseal with the appropriate sealant.

For water stains or grease, try a mixture of 3% hydrogen peroxide and powdered whiting applied with an eye dropper or spoon. Let it sit for 30 minutes and wipe with a paper towel. Repeat as necessary.

Sometimes the old folksy remedies are the best: You can restore luster to quarry tile with mineral oil and some elbow grease; just rub it in with a dry cloth. You can buff slate floors with milk for a high-shine finish; whole milk works best.

Pencil marks on stone usually come out with -- what else? -- an eraser.