2001 Poire Authentique, 2001 Sydre Doux

Eric Bordelet is raising cider to a new level at his estate 120 miles west of Paris. The former sommelier at the three-star restaurant Arpege has been applying the philosophy and technique of fine winemaking to cider production, with brilliant results. Everybody knows some of the most complex wines come from old vines. Bordelet’s cider comes from old trees, many of them heirloom variety apple or pear trees that are 40 or more years old.

Bordelet’s cidre doux tastes like the memory of apples. His poire, or perry (pear cider), is even more intriguing. Fine-spun and as delicate as lace, it has the impact of a vintage Champagne for a fraction of the price. In addition, he makes two special cuvees that are worth tracking down, Sydre Argelette (apple) and Poire Granite, produced from 300-year-old pear trees.

At only 4% alcohol, Bordelet’s ciders make a fine aperitif but they also go beautifully with appetizers. The apple cider is great with mussels.

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Quick swirl

Region: Normandy

Price: About $11

Style: Dry, sparkling and low alcohol

Food it goes with: Beautiful as an aperitif but also terrific with appetizers

Where you find it: Available at fine wine shops.

-- S. Irene Virbila