A weekenders’ pricey paradise on the shore

Malibu has grown from a quiet enclave for the rich and famous to a city of more than 27,000. A crusade to limit development inspired the area to incorporate in 1991. Malibu’s slogan, “Not just a place to live, but a way of life,” reflects residents’ hopes that it remains a quiet beach town.

Early days

For more than 4,000 years, the Chumash tribe inhabited Malibu. Spanish settler Jose Tapia made claim to the entire area in 1802, creating the Rancho Topanga Malibu Simi Sequit. In 1891, Rancho Malibu was sold to Union Oil and Southern California Edison founder Frederick Rindge and his wife, Rhoda May, for $10 dollars an acre. All of Malibu, including the entire coastline, became the New England couple’s private gated estate. Armed guards patrolled on horseback through the hills to the sea to protect the estate and keep the world at bay.

By the late 1920s, Rhoda Rindge was widowed and had fallen on hard times. She reluctantly allowed a few movie celebrities to build vacation cottages on her private beach. Trying to maintain control, she allowed only land leases. By the late 1930s, she was forced to allow homeowners to buy the land along what is known to this day as Malibu Colony, on the shores below the mouth of Malibu Creek.

Eventually, the entire rancho, covering 27 scenic miles along the Pacific Coast Highway and about 45,000 acres, became the city of Malibu.

Surf’s up

Famous for surfing conditions, Malibu’s wide, sandy beaches are known for gentle southern swells. Physician Russ Kino hits Surfrider beach three to four times weekly. “It’s like belonging to a gym, except you wear a wetsuit instead of a sweatsuit,” Kino said. “The only problem is bacteria. After a rain, the runoff makes some of us ill.” Detailed bacteria levels for California beaches are available at www.healthebay.org/brc/statemap.asp.

Drawing card

As a backdrop, Malibu’s beaches and hillsides have inspired dozens of productions, from the 1965 “Beach Blanket Bingo” to “From Here to Eternity” to the television show “MASH.” Bordered by the Santa Monica Mountains, the area enjoys hot, dry summers and mildly wet winters.

Hiking trails dot the hillsides, and campgrounds are plentiful, including Malibu RV Park and Leo Carrillo State Beach.

Dining choices range from casual to caviar. The Reel Inn, with surfboards tucked into the ceiling above wooden picnic tables, features more than a dozen types of fresh grilled seafood. For romantic dining, beachfront choices include Geoffrey’s, Moonshadows and the Paradise Cove Cafe.

Insider’s view

“Why live here?” asked Alice Leichter, who stays at a beachfront weekend condo with her husband, Mike. “You feel like you’re a million miles away in paradise.” Weekend homes are common, and part-time residents make up a large portion of Malibu owners.

Good news, bad news

When granted its wish for cityhood, Malibu gained the ability to control and limit development. But the young city has discovered the difficulty of creating a government and balancing the needs and desires of full-time residents, weekend owners, plus city visitors and tourists. Conflict between the coastal commission and the city planning department continues, with beach access a hot topic.

Stock report

In the last year, more than 25 beachside homes had listing prices exceeding $4 million; one listing is currently available for just under $30 million. A “tear-down” on the sand is listed for $8 million. The lowest-priced beachside home sold in 2003 went for $1,995,000 in June.

Landside residences are also popular, with about 120 homes for sale in mid-February. Topping the list is a $35-million view estate on 16 acres with private golf course and six bedrooms and eight bathrooms in 14,000 square feet. For $399,000, a 1,190-square-foot mobile home is listed with two bedrooms, two bathrooms.

Report card

The Santa Monica/Malibu Unified School District serves kindergarten through fifth grade with three elementary schools. Webster Elementary scored 873, Point Dume Elementary scored 866 and Juan Cabrillo Elementary scored 841 out of a possible 1,000 on the 2002 Academic Performance Index. Malibu High, for students in grades six through 12, scored 802. According to Phil Cott, school principal at Webster Elementary, the 2003 API scores have been delayed and should be available by March.

Historical values

Single-family detached resales for the 90265 ZIP Code:

Year...Median price

1990...$820,000

1995...$555,000

2001...$985,000

2002...$1,000,000

2003...$1,305,000

Sources: DataQuick Information Systems, Malibu Chamber of Commerce, www.malibu.org, The Malibu Times, www.malibutimes.com, www.themls.com, api.cde.ca.gov, Webster Elementary, www.census.gov.