The List

Ago is more scene than substance, a slick Italian restaurant from Agostino Sciandri (of Toscana fame) that runs on autopilot. Specialties: bistecca and grilled rib-eye from the wood-burning oven, ricotta cheesecake. Entrees, $23 to $42. 8478 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (323) 655-6333.

Though Alex Scrimgeour has streamlined his menu, Alex still offers well-executed, contemporary cooking from this young, talented Brit. It’s quiet enough to talk, and the service is first-rate. Specialties: Hand-cut bluefin tuna tartare, crispy duck with Gorgonzola polenta, Colorado lamb loin, tarte Tatin. Five-course prix fixe menu, $79. 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 933-5233.

Allegro chef Mario Petillo doesn’t over-sauce his pastas and isn’t afraid of simplicity. Specialties: steamed mussels and clams in red sauce, gnocchi, ravioli in walnut sauce, osso buco. Entrees, $8 to $21. 1160 N. Tustin Ave., Orange; (714) 639-7921.

Freddy Escobar of Alto Palato consistently turns out enticing pastas and thin-crusted pizzas at this classy trattoria. On Wednesdays, the feature is a bargain three-course regional menu. The bar serves a selection of Italian cheeses and wines by the glass. Specialties: pizza margherita, artichoke salad, lasagna, grilled Mediterranean sea bass. Entrees, $11 to $28. 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 657-9271.

Amalfi Ristorante is a smart-looking restaurant with a lively bar scene and L.A. Italian cooking. Specialties: pizzas, seafood salad, tagliolini with shrimp, ravioli al vitello, breaded veal chop. Entrees, $16 to $26. 143 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 938-2504.

Ammo packs in the hip and the healthy, with sleek tables and concrete floors providing a backdrop for stylish comfort food. Specialties: poached eggs with fennel, whipped potatoes with roasted shallots, double-cut pork chop with caramelized pears, Scharffen Berger brownies. Entrees, $9 to $26. 1155 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 871-2666.

The quirky two-story Amuse Cafe attracts a mix of bohemian and well-heeled diners. Specialties: roasted tomato-curry soup, rib-eye burger, lemon-jasmine green tea-infused panna cotta. Entrees, $13 to $18. 796 Main St., Venice; (310) 450-1956.

Angeli Caffe serves rustic regional Italian fare. On Thursdays, chef Evan Kleiman presents family-style dinners featuring dishes from around the world. Specialties: cacciucco livornese (fish soup), pasta, pizza, roasted half chicken. Entrees, $8 to $18. 7274 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 936-9086.

Angelini Osteria. Pizza, $14; pastas, $14 to $15. 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 297-0070. See Page 21 for more.

Angelique Cafe. Baguette sandwiches, $7 to $9. 840 S. Spring St., Los Angeles; (213) 623-8698. See Page 10 for more.

Antica Pizzeria. Pizzas, $8.50 to $11. Villa Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey; (310) 577-8182. See Page 21 for more.

Antojitos BiBi features Honduran cuisine. Spices are muted, meals are colorful and vegetables are plentiful. Specialties: Honduran enchiladas, fried banana slices with fried chicken, fresh corn tamales. Entrees, $3 to $10. Park View Center, 2400 W. 7th St., No. 109, Los Angeles; (213) 383-8595.

Antonello Ristorante was designed to resemble a street in owner Antonio Cagnolo’s hometown in Italy, and it’s where Orange County’s power plays happen. The uninitiated order from the menu; regulars leave decisions to the servers. Specialties: fresh-textured sauces, veal, seafood and pastas. Entrees, $14 to $38. South Coast Plaza Village, 1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana; (714) 751-7153.

A.O.C. Dishes, $7 to $14. 8022 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 653-6359. See Page 16 for more.

The Apple Pan burger counter, an institution since 1947, continues to draw customers who are as loyal as sports fans. Specialties: steak burger, hickory burger, egg salad sandwich, tuna sandwich, apple pie, banana cream pie. Sandwiches and burgers, $4 to $6. 10801 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 475-3585.

Arnie Morton’s menu is show-and-tell. The beef is super-aged and every portion is humongous at this high-end Chicago-based steakhouse chain. Specialties: colossal shrimp cocktail, lobster bisque, porterhouse, New York strip, filet Diane, double-rib lamb chops, baked potato, sauteed onions, cheesecake. Entrees, $22 to $38. 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 246-1501. Two other locations in Los Angeles and one in Costa Mesa.

Arterra may be a hotel restaurant, but the kitchen under chef de cuisine Carl Schroeder, a protege of chef-partner Bradley Ogden, is turning out seasonal cooking that defines California cuisine. The menu changes daily. Specialties: heirloom tomato salad, sweet corn soup, foie gras with cherries, guinea hen with mushrooms, grilled wild salmon, berry sampler. Entrees, $20 to $33. San Diego Marriott Del Mar, 11966 El Camino Real, San Diego; (858) 369-6032.

Art’s Deli remains the definitive Valley deli, where you go to be abused by busy waitresses, pick up some fractured menu Yiddish and eat the best corned beef and pastrami on the boulevard. Specialties: corned beef sandwich, “I want it all” chicken soup, short ribs in the pot. Entrees, $10 to $16. 12224 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 762-1221.

The authentic satays and curries at Asian Deli offer Southland residents a rare taste of Indonesia. Specialties: chicken satay, cabbage salad, braised beef in coconut milk, grilled catfish. Entrees, $4 to $8. 23545 Palomino Drive, Suite F, Diamond Bar; (909) 861-1427.

Aubergine. Entrees, $27 to $38; chef’s tasting menu, $105. 508 29th St., Newport Beach; (949) 723-4150. See Page 9 for more.

Baguette Express owner Daniel Ngo blends the convenience of a fast-food restaurant with high-quality, made-to-order food. Specialties: baguette special, rotisserie chicken sandwich, “xiu mai” sandwich. Sandwiches, $1.50 to $4.25. 400 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel; (626) 280-8883.

Balboa Prime Restaurant & Lounge, set inside the Grafton on Sunset Hotel, attracts a young, hip crowd with its prime, super-aged steaks and inventive sides. In addition to traditional drinks, the bar turns out unusual cocktails--the weirder the better. Specialties: prime New York steak, pecan tart. Entrees, $16 to $40. 8462 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 650-8383.

The Barbeque Club Bar & Grill has signed photos of jazz musicians on the walls and features live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Specialties: catfish nuggets, catfish po’ boy, fettuccine with crayfish, baby back ribs, barbecued chicken, sweet potato pie. Entrees, $7 to $17. 26238 Bouquet Canyon Road, Santa Clarita; (661) 253-4555.

Barney Greengrass, the deli and restaurant on the top floor of Barneys New York, is decorated with New York subway-style tiles. Even the water tastes as if it’s from New York. Specialties: bialys, smoked sturgeon, Nova Scotia salmon. Entrees, $10 to $18. 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 777-5877.

When Bastide opened in 2002, French tastemaker Andree Putman’s stunning design and Alain Giraud’s spirited French cooking took the L.A. restaurant scene by storm. At last, a sophisticated contemporary French restaurant with a beautiful setting, polished service and a deep wine cellar (devoted to the French labels owner Joe Pytka favors). As of this writing, though, Pytka plans to hire a new chef and change the format of one of L.A.’s best restaurants. 8475 Melrose Place, Los Angeles; (323) 651-5950.

The Belvedere offers well-crafted French-California cuisine with Asian touches in the Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel’s elegant dining room. An innovative brunch and a splendid high tea are served in the “Living Room.” Specialty: bluefin tuna lollipops. Entrees, $28 to $34. 9882 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 788-2306.

Bibi’s Warmstone Bakery and Cafe. Dishes, $3.50 to $7. 8928 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 246-1788. See Page 22 for more.

Big Mama’s Rib Shack, which offers highly flavored Southern cooking, is no shack at all. Specialties: barbecued ribs, fried chicken, jambalaya, chicken Creole, hush puppies. Dinners, $7 to $17. 1453 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena; (626) 797-1792.

Birrieria Jalisco. Birria (roasted goat meat), $7.30; small order, $5.25; by the pound, $16. 1845 E. 1st St., Los Angeles; (323) 262-4552. See Page 22 for more.

Bistro 45, not far from the Pasadena Playhouse, is better known for its encyclopedic wine list than its California-French cooking. The Art Deco building is lovely, and there’s a fine patio. Specialties: duck confit salad, escargots. Entrees, $18 to $32. 45 S. Mentor Ave., Pasadena; (626) 795-2478.

Bistro Garden at Coldwater lays claim to a loyal cadre of ladies who lunch now that the original Beverly Hills location is gone. The food is a mix of old-fashioned French bistro and Continental fare. Specialties: French onion soup, Bistro Garden salad, home-cured gravlax, chocolate souffle. Entrees, $17 to $30. 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 501-0202.

At Blair’s, hearty food and moderate prices keep this lively restaurant on simmer. Specialties: shrimp cocktail and curried deviled eggs, crab cakes, pan-roasted salmon, short ribs. Entrees, $16 to $32. 2903 Rowena Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 660-1882.

Chef Brian Hirsty of Bluewater Grill stocks as many as 20 fresh fish varieties daily, which he imaginatively prepares. Specialties: calamari fritti, linguine with vongole, beer-battered fish sandwich, sand dabs. Entrees, $15 to $34. South Coast Plaza Village, 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana; (714) 546-3474. Also in Newport Beach, Redondo Beach and Menlo Park.

Boe, a small hotel restaurant, offers smart cooking with just enough of an exotic twist to keep jaded palates interested. Communal dining inside, individual tables on the lovely patio. Specialties: New York strip steak, chicken po’ boy, artichoke frittata, Southwest scramble. Entrees, $16 to $23. The Crescent Hotel, 403 N. Crescent Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 247-0505.

Bombay Bite features a fusion menu of authentic Bombay-style Indian dishes, Indian-Chinese selections and European-influenced house specialties. Specialties: rack of lamb, Bombay chicken kebab, beef bhuna, shrimp masala, eggplant puree. Combination dinners, $15 and $18. 1051 Gayley Ave., Westwood Village; (310) 824-1046.

Bombay Cafe is a casual Indian restaurant with a menu that reflects the chef’s soulful Indian cooking and California sensibility. Specialties: samosas, chutney sampler, lamb frankies, Sindhi chicken, shrimp curry, kher (rice pudding). Entrees, $10 to $17. 12021 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 473-3388.

The Brentwood Restaurant and Lounge feels like a private club for the well-heeled, artsy Westside crowd. Bruce Marder’s menu is all-American comfort food tweaked to suit a singular California aesthetic. Specialties: heirloom tomato-vegetable salad, burrata caprese, prime New York steak, Kobe burger and fries, apple pie, cobbler. Entrees, $14 to $55. 148 S. Barrington Ave., Los Angeles; (310) 476-3511.

Brothers Restaurant at Mattei’s Tavern is an amiable wine-country eatery housed in a former stagecoach stop, with a private wine room installed in an old water tower. Specialties: hearts of romaine salad, foie gras with spiced apples, prime rib, garlic-roasted chicken, mud pie. Entrees, $16 to $34. 2350 Railway Ave., Los Olivos; (805) 688-4820.

The Buffalo Club is a sophisticated supper club with luxurious leather chairs, generous booths and a magical garden with Chinese lanterns strung overhead. French-trained chef Patrick Healy offers an American menu. Specialties: spicy buffalo wings, Angus New York steak, crispy Atlantic salmon pepper steak, cornmeal-crusted okra. Entrees, $25 to $36. 1520 Olympic Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 450-8600.

The Bungalow specializes in trendy fruit juice-based martinis and high-quality prime beef. But this toniest of Orange County steakhouses also offers fine seafood. Specialties: crab cakes, Thai calamari, rib-eye, rack of lamb, sea bass. Entrees, $21 to $38. 2441 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar; (949) 673-6585.

Cafe Atlantic is a casual Cuban cafe right around the corner from Xiomara, the same owner’s longtime Nuevo Latino restaurant. Open from 6 a.m. Specialties: Spanish tortillas, shrimp cocktail, fried rice, black bean soup, Cuban sandwiches, ropa vieja, Cuban flan. Entrees, $10 to $15. 53 E. Union St., Pasadena; (626) 796-7350.

Cafe Beaujolais is the sort of French restaurant every neighborhood ought to have. It’s charming and unpretentious, with a grapevine pattern stenciled high on its walls. Specialties: escargots, rack of lamb, pear tart, lemon tart with fresh meringue. Entrees, $13 to $17. 1712 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock; (323) 255-5111.

Cafe Bizou started out in Sherman Oaks as a charming French bistro with modest prices and became a favorite with wine buffs for its low corkage fee. Once it expanded, though, the food hasn’t been as consistent. Specialties: lobster and salmon ravioli, braised short ribs, profiteroles. Entrees, $7 to $19. 91 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena; (626) 792-9923; 2450 Colorado Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 582-8203; 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 788-3536.

The chef’s eclectic menu at Cafe Hiro is a tribute to the invasion of “foreign” tastes into modern Japanese cooking (think French-influenced sauces, Italian pastas and curries). Specialties: tuna tartare, diver scallops, Kobe beef tataki. Entrees, $8 to $18. 10509 Valley View St., Cypress; (714) 527-6090.

Cafe Midi is a lovely spot for lunch for anyone exploring the galleries and boutiques along La Brea Avenue. Chef Edouard Moyal offers an appealing array of salads and sandwiches. Specialties: salad Nicoise, curried egg salad sandwich, burger on focaccia, Edouard’s brownie. Entrees, $7 to $12. 148 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 939-9860.

Cafe Stella. Aperitifs, $7; entrees, $15 to $35. Sunset Junction, 3932 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 666-0265. See Page 10 for more.

Cafe Talesai offers, in addition to the usual Thai dishes, many with a northern influence. The food is spirited in flavor and presented attractively. Specialties: Southern Thai border beef, corn fritters, Thai latkes, spicy rib-eye salad, Panang curry. Entrees, $9 to $21. 9198 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 271-9345.

Cafe Tartine. Soup, $6; salads, $7 to $11; tartines, $8 to $10; desserts, $6 to $7. 7385 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 938-1300. See Page 23 for more.

Cafe Veneto, next door to Locanda Veneta and run by the same owner, is a casual cafe where you can get a quick bite in a smart, comfortable setting. Specialties: fried calamari, pizza, flamed shrimp, white bean soup. Small dishes, $6.50 to $10; pizzas, $7.50 to $10. 8636 W. 3rd St., West Hollywood; (310) 273-3605.

Caffe Delfini is a cozy spot near the beach, comfortable and unpretentious, with decent Italian cooking. Specialties: caprese, capellini alla checca, linguine portofino, veal piccata. Entrees, $10.50 to $30. 147 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica; (310) 459-8823.

Campanile. Entrees, $24 to $52. 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 938-1447. See Page 10 for more.

Capo is chef Bruce Marder’s clubby 16-table restaurant, where he grills meats, poultry and seafood in a wood-burning fireplace for a well-heeled crowd. Specialties: porcini mushroom soup, ravioli quattro formaggi, Dover sole, New York steak, hot apple tart, crepes in orange sauce. Entrees, $34 to $48. 1810 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 394-5550.

Capriccio Italiano doesn’t hold back on big flavors such as garlic and capers, and it offers a fine daily selection of seafood. Specialties: calamari Siciliani, linguine con salsiccia alla campaga, salmone reale capriccioso, pizzas. Entrees, $12 to $20. 25380 Marguerite Parkway, Mission Viejo; (949) 855-6866.

Carousel serves hummus in variations that include fried sausage, lamb or pine nuts. Creamy yogurt cheese comes with tomatoes, olive oil and red pepper or with jalapeno-based toppings. Specialties: tabbouleh, mutabbal, falafel, kibbeh, fatayer (lengths of puff pastry filled with white cheese). Entrees, $11 to $27. 304 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 246-7775.

Casbah Cafe. Cafe au lait, $2; iced mint tea, $2. 3900 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; (323) 664-7000. See Page 23 for more.

CBS Seafood has tanks of live fish and serves everything from geoduck to shrimp, but the dim sum should not be missed. Specialties: scallops and squid in garlic sauce, sauteed rock cod fillet, braised pork with preserved vegetables. Entrees, $10 to $15. 700 N. Spring St., Los Angeles; (213) 617-2323.

Cebiche del Rey lures diners with exotic grills and Peruvian criollo dishes. The restaurant boasts four ceviches, the best of which is the zingy tiradito, an elegant version that’s almost a sashimi. Specialties: ceviche, papa rellena, chupe de camarones, arroz con mariscos. Entrees, $5 to $27. 7404 Florence Ave., Downey; (562) 806-4033.

Celestino Ristorante is yet another spinoff of Drago in Santa Monica from Celestino Drago’s brothers and with much the same menu of familiar Italian dishes. Specialties: eggplant timbale, spaghetti with mixed seafood, striped bass with green lentils, rabbit in a black olive sauce, tiramisu. Entrees, $9 to $26. 141 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena; (626) 795-4006.

Cenaduria La Casita Mexicana is a modest family-run eatery that offers garden-to-table cooking, always from scratch. Specialties: quesadillas, mole poblano, chicken pipian, pozole, cactus agua fresca. Entrees, $7 to $11. 4030 E. Gage Ave., Bell; (323) 773-1898.

Cha Cha Cha is a lively, colorful and funky celebration restaurant offering Caribbean fare with a distinctive island vibe. Specialties: sweet corn tamales, jerk chicken, paella loaded with chicken, shellfish and sausage. Entrees, $10 to $23. 17499 Ventura Blvd., Encino; (818) 789-3600. Also in Los Angeles.

Chateau Marmont. Entrees, $18 to $32. 8221 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 656-1010. See Page 17 for more.

Chaya Brasserie is still the life of the party after 20 years. Chef Shigefumi Tachibe offers his classic dishes with updated surprises. Specialties: lobster sushi roll, sauteed foie gras with vanilla-Porto reduction, chicken Dijon, two-way lamb chops, grilled wild salmon, creme brulee, fragrant mint tea. Entrees, $15 to $30. 8741 Alden Drive, Los Angeles; (310) 859-8833.

Chaya Venice is thronged with a local beach crowd scarfing down sushi and sashimi in the bar. The main dining room features a French-Japanese menu with a heavy emphasis on seafood. Specialties: java chicken salad, wakame seaweed salad, grilled wild Alaskan salmon, miso-marinated white sea bass, Chaya chicken Dijon. Entrees, $18 to $30. 110 Navy St., Venice; (310) 396-1179.

Cheebo. Pizzas, $9 to $10; main courses, $14 to $29. 7533 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 850-7070. See Page 24 for more.

Chez Jay. Entrees, $17 to $34. 1657 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 395-1741. See Page 15 for more.

Chez Melange, inside the Palos Verdes Inn, is where chef Robert Bell cooks up a wildly eclectic menu of fresh seafood, pastas and meats. Specialties: Southern fried chicken salad, Chez burger, spicy Cajun meatloaf. Entrees, $14 to $27. 1716 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach; (310) 540-1222.

Chez Mimi, with its inviting bohemian ambience, feels like a French country auberge, and the food is simple and nostalgic. Specialties: house pate, chilled cucumber soup, vichyssoise, mushroom salad, poulet Chez Helene, gigot d’agneau, calf liver, flourless chocolate cake, tarte Tatin. Entrees, $15 to $32.50. 246 26th St., Santa Monica; (310) 393-0558.

Chimayo at the Beach has a killer location near the Huntington Beach Pier and a stunning design. The menu is half Southwestern, half seafood. Specialties: ahi-and-avocado rolls, pork wrapped in banana leaf, crispy chicken breast on cheddar potatoes, mango margarita. Entrees, $9 to $28. 315 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach; (714) 374-7273.

Chinois on Main. Main courses to share, $19 to $36. 2709 Main St., Santa Monica; (310) 392-9025. See Page 24 for more.

Chloe is a sweet neighborhood restaurant with a one-page menu of delicious seasonal dishes cooked with skill and care. Specialties: twice-baked Maine lobster, vitello tonnato, soft-shell crab with sweet 100 tomato sauce, roasted rabbit with baby zucchini. Entrees, $18 to $28. 333 Culver Blvd., Playa del Rey; (310) 305-4505.

Christakis, which is family-run, is the place for authentic home-style Greek cooking. The piece de resistance is the rack of lamb marinated in white wine and oregano. Specialty: galactobouriko (clove-infused custard baked in phyllo dough). Entrees, $12 to $32. 13011 Newport Ave., Tustin; (714) 731-1179.

Chung King Restaurant boasts a repository of fiery Sichuan cuisine. The highlight of the huge menu is No. 9: dried beef slices fried with Sichuan hot peppers. Specialty: Sichuan dumplings doused in ultra-spicy red broth. Entrees, $5 to $7. 206 S. Garfield Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-7430.

Cicada offers northern Italian food with French and California influences in a hushed, glamorous setting inside the 1928 Art Deco Oviatt building downtown. Specialties: tarragon-scented crab cakes, salmon and tuna tartars, shrimp ravioli, linguine with lobster, chicken breast with herb mashed potatoes, banana basket. Entrees, $17 to $32. 617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles; (213) 488-9488.

Cinch. Entrees, $12.50 to $24. 1519 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 395-4139. See Page 14 for more.

Citrine offers a contemporary California menu with French and Asian flavors. Specialties: rock shrimp ravioli, crab cake, butter lettuce salad with tangerines and pistachios, duo of beef. Entrees, $18 to $32. 8360 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (323) 655-1690.

Citronelle chef Isabelle Alexandre turns out Michel Richard-inspired French-California cuisine in a hotel dining room with a view of palms and the ocean. Specialties: porcupine shrimp, fresh Arctic char, sauteed foie gras, roasted rack of lamb, duck two ways. Entrees, $24 to $39. 901 E. Cabrillo Blvd., Santa Barbara; (805) 963-0111.

Ciudad celebrates Latin cooking from Havana to Barcelona, Lima and Sao Paulo. A colorful ‘50s-inspired interior, lively bar and outdoor patio set the scene. Specialties: Bolivian sweet corn tamale, Honduran ceviche, paella a la Valenciana, Peruvian marinated skirt steak. Entrees, $15 to $30. 445 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles; (213) 486-5171.

At CJ’s Cafe, breakfast and lunch are served all day. Soul food dishes, including fried catfish, short ribs and chicken wings, come with a cornmeal muffin and a choice of two sides. You’ll also find a couple of striking Mexican mains. Specialties: fajita-style chicken, short ribs, spicy roast pork, carrot juice. Entrees, $3.50 to $8. 5501 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 936-3216.

Clementine is a charming cafe with sidewalk tables and a takeout counter. Everything at this relaxed spot--the soups, sandwiches, pastries, even the coffee--is just so. Specialties: soups, house-cured gravlax, egg salad, thumbprint cookies, gingersnaps. Entrees, $8 to $12. 1751 Ensley Ave., Los Angeles; (310) 552-1080.

Cobras & Matadors boasts a colorful menu where the tapas recall the food of Hemingway’s Spain. This is exuberant stuff, rich in garlic, herbs and sheer intensity of flavor. Specialties: asparagus and Manchego, albondigas (meatballs), green lentils and jamon, grilled skirt steak. Entrees, $4 to $16. 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 932-6178.

The Counter. Children’s menu, $3 to $5; burgers, $6.50 to $11. Delivery available. 2901 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 399-8383. See Page 24 for more.

Curry Bowl, a mini-mall storefront, is Tarzana’s latest Sri Lankan place. Its signature dish, string hoppers, are a delicacy: steamed vermicelli made from rice flour with coconut-scented sauce. Specialties: beef buns, curries, chicken biriyani, jaggery cake. Entrees, $7 to $9. 19662 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana; (818) 609-7683.

Da Lat Bistro specializes in central Vietnamese cuisine. Bamboo-covered walls and a thatched bar evoke a tropical feeling. Specialties: shrimp salad, spring rolls, whole grilled catfish, clam butter stew. Entrees, $5 to $15. 16525 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley; (714) 839-8338.

Damon’s Steakhouse, with its wild tiki bar and jungle vibe, is as retro-Polynesian as an aloha shirt. Go for the petit filet steak lunch and a mai tai. Specialties: beef tenderloin, shrimp cocktail, filet mignon, mai tai, chi chi. Entrees, $15 to $18. 317 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 507-1510.

Dan Tana’s has seen it all. A prime West Hollywood watering hole, this old-fashioned Italian spot features cozy booths, waiters who tell you what you want and a bartender who remembers everybody who walks in the door. Specialties: stuffed calamari, Caesar salad, New York steak. Entrees, $17 to $42. 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 275-9444.

Deerfield Kitchen serves a $4 lunch menu that includes a pile of sauteed vegetables shot through with thin brown slices of the smokiest pork around. Specialties: jing dong meat pie, jing do rou bing (fried flatbread stuffed with minced pork). Entrees, $4 to $7. 130 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park; (626) 284-3867.

Delice. Croissants, $2.25. 8583 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 289-6556. See Page 10 for more.

The Dining Room. Entrees, $27 to $42. Chef’s five-course tasting menu, $74 without wine, $125 with wine. The Ritz-Carlton Huntington Hotel & Spa, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena; (626) 577-2867. See Page 8 for more.

The Dip. French dip sandwiches, $6. 14333 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 501-1850. See Page 24 for more.

Dolce. Entrees, $19 to $32. 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (323) 852-7174. See Page 14 for more.

Doug Arango’s. After 13 years in Palm Desert, this old-school restaurant has landed in West Hollywood, where it is an anomaly with its retro decor and straightforward menu. Specialties: pizzas, soups, grilled prawns, butternut squash ravioli, rack of lamb. Entrees, $16 to $34. 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (310) 278-3684.

The Dragon, in Koreatown, is a real discovery if you’ve always thought the only destinations for great Chinese food were Chinatown or the San Gabriel Valley. Specialties: pork meatballs, chicken in lettuce leaves, fish with hot chile bean sauce, stuffed mushrooms. Entrees, $10 to $36. 966 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 387-8833.

Edendale Grill caters to an eclectic Silver Lake crowd. It’s truly a neighborhood restaurant, housed in a restored 1924 firehouse with a lively bar where the firetruck once parked. Specialties: shrimp cocktail, crab cakes in tequila-lime sauce, tableside Caesar salad, meatloaf, prime flatiron steak, stuffed Idaho trout. Entrees, $15 to $22. 2838 Rowena Ave., Silver Lake; (323) 666-2000.

El Cholo Cantina features the same menu as El Cholo, with nostalgia dishes such as Sonora-style enchiladas topped with a fried egg and those famous sweet green-corn tamales (May through October only). Specialties: tamales, tacos al carbon, carnitas plate, blue corn chicken enchiladas. Entrees, $7 to $13. 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine; (949) 451-0044.

El Danzante is a little Oaxacan place that doesn’t water down the food for American tastes. And it’s terrific--every table is usually occupied. Specialties: mole negro (black), verde (green) and coloradito (red); estofado; enchiladas; barbacoa de chivo (weekends only). Entrees, $4 to $8. 3071 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 735-4688.

El Farolito has managed to please two kinds of Mexican food customers for nearly 30 years: those who want forceful dishes such as menudo and those who are looking for big margaritas and nachos. Specialties: chips and salsa, enchiladas, steak milanesa. Entrees, $5 to $10. 201 S. Bradford Ave., Placentia; (714) 993-7880.

El Huarache Azteca is as close as you can come to the simple Mexican cooking found in homes, market fondas and small restaurants deep in Mexico. Specialties: huaraches (masa served hot off the grill) with meat, onions, cilantro, crema and finely powdered cheese on top; marinated pork; aguas frescas. Snacks, 50 cents to $2; huarachito plate, $3; daily specials, $5. 1 York Blvd., Highland Park; (323) 478-9572.

Elixir. Tonics, $4 to $5. 8612 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (310) 657-9300. See Page 20 for more.

El Misti Picanteria Arequipena provides a splendid introduction to the rustic fare of the Andean city Arequipena, over which the El Misti volcano hovers. Specialties: ceviche, choros a la criolla, fried yucca, chile stuffed with picadillo, lamb ribs. Entrees, $4 to $11. 3070 W. Lincoln Ave., Anaheim; (714) 995-5944.

El Taurino, one of the town’s most colorful Mexican eateries, offers meat (and lots of it) that is shredded, sliced and smothered to satisfy the staunchest of carnivores. Specialties: barbacoa estilo Texcoco (oven-steamed lamb), beef ribs, baked pork leg with a chile marinade, tacos. Entrees, $4 to $8. 1104 S. Hoover St., Los Angeles; (213) 738-9197.

EM Bistro offers a good meal squarely in the American comfort zone. Specialties: crab and lobster cake, steamed mussels, wild Irish salmon, Cornish game hen, braised beef short ribs, brown butter plum tart, organic strawberry shortcake. Entrees, $12 to $26. 8256 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 658-6004.

Emmanuel An American Bistro is worth seeking out among the neon clutter of Ventura Boulevard for its homey, modestly priced bistro fare. Specialties: wild mushroom ravioli, seared sea scallops and artichoke, chocolate souffle. Entrees, $17 to $31; four-course prix fixe menus, $35 and $45. 11929 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 766-3128.

Empress Pavilion, a bustling Hong Kong-style restaurant, offers 175 menu selections. Twelve cooks, 19 dim sum specialists, plus two barbecue chefs prepare the intricate handmade delicacies (40 to 60 kinds on any given day). Specialties: siu mai (steamed dumplings), pot stickers, barbecued pork. Entrees, $10 to $15. 988 N. Hill St., Los Angeles; (213) 617-9898.

Enoteca Drago. Pastas, $12 to $15; bistecca di bue Piemontese alla fiorentina, $58 for two. 410 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 786-8236. See Page 21 for more.

Erawan Thai is elegant, from its facade to an interior as evocative as a Thai house. Many dishes also are stylishly presented. Specialties: Meang kum, summer rolls (rice paper stuffed with vegetables, tofu and rice noodles), steamed sea bass, choo chee prawns, seafood curry udon. Entrees, $7 to $16. 7119 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 692-0600.

Falcon is a sleek, minimalist lounge and restaurant. Its chic outdoor patio has a fireplace at one end, a bar at the other and night owls crowding the space in between. Specialties: garlic mashed potatoes, free-range chicken breast, prime Angus New York steak, meatloaf, cappuccino creme brulee. Entrees, $13 to $29. 7213 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 850-5350.

Father’s Office. Small plates, $3.50 to $5; entrees, $9 to $15. 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 393-2337. See Page 15 for more.

Firefly may be the hippest thing to hit the Valley in years. It’s alluring enough to draw folks from over the hill, but it’s not at all snooty. Specialties: spring pea agnolotti, pan-roasted scallops with fava beans and mint, all-day baked pork breast, charcuterie platter, farmhouse cheeses. Entrees, $16 to $24. 11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 762-1833.

Firefly Bistro offers a slightly bohemian California menu that’s high-spirited and fun, just like its tent party atmosphere. Specialties: five-spice shredded pork egg rolls, crispy crawfish tails, charred tomato gazpacho, pecan-coated catfish, Portuguese chicken. Entrees, $15 to $27. 1009 El Centro Ave., South Pasadena; (626) 441-2443.

Five Crowns on PCH might seem like an unlikely venue for an English-style country inn, so you may wonder if it’s pure kitsch. Any doubts of its quality are laid to rest once you’re inside. Specialties: “pride of the crowns” salad, soft-shell crabs, prime rib. Entrees, $19 to $34. 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar; (949) 760-0331.

Fountain Coffee Shop. Breakfast items, $3 to $15. Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 276-2251. See Page 20 for more.

Fukawa. Noodle dishes, $8 to $13. 2050 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 575-5653. See Page 21 for more.

The Galley. Entrees, $12 to $56. 2442 Main St., Santa Monica; (310) 452-1934. See Page 15 for more.

Gallo’s Grill is the place for authentic, East Los Angeles-style Mexican food. You’ll even have your meal served on a traditional Mexican comal (grill). Specialties: carne asada delgada, filete abierto, handmade tortillas. Entrees, $7 to $9. 4533 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 980-8669.

The German Place serves tastes of the Old World with traditional fare such as Wiener schnitzel. It’s spare yet homey, with an extensive German beer selection. Specialties: maultaschen, roulade, goulash, sauerbraten, pork roast, bratwurst, German chocolate cake. Entrees, $16 to $25. 23115 Lyons Ave., Newhall; (661) 255-9790.

Gina Lee’s Bistro focuses on fusion. The Asian “bistro” melds Korean, Chinese and Japanese cooking with eclectic California cuisine. Specialties: crispy wontons, chicken dumplings, whole crispy catfish, duck breast with orange Port sauce, marinated New York steak, lemon souffle. Entrees, $11 to $21. 211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach; (310) 375-4462.

Globe Venice is about soulful California cooking. Specialties: salade aux lardons, smoked salmon, whole rotisserie chicken, pizza with grilled fennel and feta cheese, spaghetti Bolognese, apple tart. Entrees, $14 to $22. 72 Market St., Venice; (310) 392-8720.

The Vietnamese fare at Golden Deli will hook you. Diners wait in line to taste the shrimp paste served on sugar cane and wrapped in rice paper with romaine, bean sprouts, carrots, mint, cilantro and herbs. Specialties: fried spring rolls, banh hoi (rice-noodle mats), pho. Entrees, $5 to $7. 815 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel; (626) 308-0803.

Grace boasts a frenetic bar scene and dining room packed with a hip young crowd. The menu is ambitious and theatrical. Specialties: skate with roasted cauliflower, risotto with pumpkin and sea urchin, goat cheese salad, bacon-wrapped saddle of rabbit, jelly doughnuts. Entrees, $16 to $29. 7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 934-4400.

Granita blends Wolfgang Puck and chef Jennifer Naylor’s seafood-focused menu of American cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Specialties: crab cakes, oysters, lobster club sandwich, ahi tuna, barbecued salmon “chop.” Entrees, $24 to $36. Malibu Colony Plaza, 23725 W. Malibu Road, Malibu; (310) 456-0488.

Green Village doesn’t see itself as a mere village restaurant. Its menu showcases the sophisticated big-city dishes of Shanghai. Specialties: wu-ti special ribs, pork spareribs house-style, braised fresh fish, braised minced pork with gluten puffs. Entrees, $8 to $11. San Gabriel Square, 140 W. Valley Blvd., No. 206-207, San Gabriel; (626) 288-5918.

The Griddle Cafe. “Bluesberry” flapjacks, $8. 7916 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 874-0377. See Page 21 for more.

The Grill on the Alley is the kind of classy retro joint that Nick and Nora from “The Thin Man” films would have loved. Ingredients here are top-notch, and the service is the best in town. Specialties: Cobb salad, Caesar salad, double-cut lamb chops, prime New York strip, classic martini. Entrees, $20 to $35. 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills; (310) 276-0615.

Guelaguetza is the place for authentic Oaxacan cuisine. Inside Soledad Lopez’s modest place, women in snowy white caps tend their pots of bubbling beans and moles. Specialties: stewed goat, empanada with mushrooms and yellow mole, huevos rancheros, tortillas. Entrees, $8 to $12. 11127 Palms Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 837-1153.

Gulfstream is a seafood spot with a hip, comforting American menu and a lively bar filled with the young and the restless of Newport Beach. An outdoor terrace features New England-style wooden beach chairs and a fireplace. Specialties: jumbo lump crab cakes, cedar-plank salmon. Entrees, $10 to $25. 850 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach; (949) 718-0187. Also in Century City.

Gyu-Kaku. Meats for grilling, $5 to $15; children’s menu, $5. 10925 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 234-8641; 63 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 659-5760; 24631 Crenshaw Blvd., Torrance; (310) 325-1437. See Page 24 for more.

Haifa, a tiny Mediterranean restaurant, packs a serious crowd. The glatt kosher menu is eclectic, ranging from moussaka and tabbouleh salad to matzo ball soup. Specialties: appetizer salads with falafel, Yemenite soup, stuffed cabbage, shawarma turkey on hummus. Entrees, $12 to $20. 8717 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 888-7700.

The Hitching Post II serves serious sirloin and hefty T-bones. This place has it all--lively atmosphere, personable service, really good food and interesting wines from a hands-on owner-chef-winemaker. Specialties: grilled artichoke, Santa Barbara mussels, California quail, flatiron steak, filet mignon, cheesecake. Entrees, $18 to $39. 406 E. Highway 246, Buellton; (805) 688-0676.

Hong Kong Palace is an elegant seafood restaurant where the fun begins when the servers parade around the room with their carts, calling out the names of their wares. For food of this quality, it’s an incredible bargain. Specialties: shrimp dumplings, barbecue pork pastries, pork riblets with black beans, taro root balls, sweet tofu. Dim sum, $8 to $15 per person. 19101 E. Colima Road, Rowland Heights; (626) 854-9829.

The Hump, at the Santa Monica Airport, serves sashimi that tastes as if it were just plucked from the ocean. Sushi, $5 to $10; sashimi, $8 to $20. 3221 Donald Douglas Loop S., Santa Monica; (310) 313-0977.

I Love Sushi may sound like a sitcom, but it’s one of Orange County’s best sushi venues. Visual artist-chef Tiger Nogi shows a deft hand with fish. Specialties: yellowtail and halibut sashimi, egg rolls with smoked salmon and cream cheese, sauteed calamari. Entrees, $9 to $15. 2340 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa; (714) 540-6195.

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi is a modest-looking place near the beach where Signor Baldi cooks the food of his Tuscan childhood for a glitterati crowd. Specialties: pasta e fagioli, fettuccine with porcini sauce, gnocchi in Gorgonzola sauce, grilled spigolla, veal cutlet, torta della nonna. Entrees, $12 to $35. 114 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica; (310) 573-1660.

Il San Duck B.B.Q. House. Entrees, $8 to $35 (serves three). 3700 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown; (323) 735-9100 or (323) 735-4778. See Page 22 for more.

The Ivy. Entrees, $25 to $45. 113 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 274-8303. Ivy at the Shore, 1541 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 393-3113. See Page 15 for more.

J&J; Restaurant, which specializes in casual Shanghai-style foods, is a calmer alternative to the typical Sunday dim sum scene. Specialties: crab bao, wo te-ah (pan-fried dumplings). Menu items, $1 to $6. 301 W. Valley Blvd., No. 109, San Gabriel; (626) 308-9238.

Jaan is Sanskrit for “dish,” and it’s meant to convey that the menu fuses Indochinese, French and American cuisines. Specialties: heirloom tomato “carpaccio,” Charentais melon tartar, Pacific King salmon, matcha tiramisu. Entrees, $20 to $45. Raffles L’Ermitage Hotel, 9291 Burton Way, Beverly Hills; (310) 385-5344.

James’ Beach, a Venice favorite, turns out straightforward American food in a raucous atmosphere. Specialties: Mykonos platter, soup, fried calamari, lettuce with Maytag blue cheese dressing, fried chicken, “beach-style” lobster, mixed berry tart. Entrees, $17 to $28. 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice; (310) 823-5396.

Jar now has just one chef--Suzanne Tracht--instead of two, but the menu is much the same: well-executed, modern chophouse fare with interesting salads and savvy first courses, and terrific steaks, chops, pot roast and other braised meats. Fish is excellent too. Specialties: fried Ipswich clams, black mussels with lobster bearnaise, pot roast, dry-aged Kansas City steak, sauteed pea tendrils, banana cream pie. Entrees, $14 to $36. 8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 655-6566.

Jay Bharat will take you far from Southern California as you see Indian families noshing on pattis (crisp fried pastry filled with coconut, raisins, nuts and potatoes) and sipping rose or mango lassis. Specialties: okra curry, stuffed puri (deep-fried bread), Southern Indian vegetarian plates. Entrees, $2 to $9. 18701 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia; (562) 924-3310.

Jer-ne, the restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey, is splashy in concept but delivers with solid cooking. Sit out on the terrace, where you can watch sailboats glide in and out of the marina. Specialties: Kobe beef carpaccio, grilled lamb chops, Santa Barbara spiny lobster shabu-shabu. Entrees, $24 to $30. 4375 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey; (310) 574-4333.

Jimmy’s Tavern is everything hip that new restaurants aren’t: It’s impeccably well-run. The menu has been updated just enough to appeal to both the old guard and the newly acquainted. Specialties: smoked Irish salmon, seared Kobe beef, venison Bolognese, corned beef and cabbage, osso buco. Entrees, $19 to $29. 10543 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 446-8808.

Jin Sang is the local branch of a Korean chain where the specialty is shabu-shabu. Much of the food is Japanese, with a Korean accent. Specialties: shabu-shabu (meat or seafood and vegetables dropped into boiling liquid), sukiyaki, kimchi ball (shrimp, tuna, vegetables and kimchi wrapped in cabbage). Entrees, $13 to $46. 2949 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles; (213) 387-1600.

JiRaffe. Monday night bistro menu, $26 to $29. 502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 917-6671. See Page 11 for more.

Joan’s on Third has a terrific collection of gourmet goodies, as well as delicious morning pastries, sandwiches and desserts to eat in or take out. Specialties: tarragon chicken salad, grilled vegetables Provencal, turkey meatloaf, homemade mini cupcakes. Salads, $5 to $13; sandwiches, $8 to $11. 8350 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 655-2285.

Joe’s Restaurant is a beloved Venice institution. Joe Miller is in the kitchen almost every night, sending out his signature California-French-inspired food. Specialties: mushroom ravioli, slow-roasted salmon, apple tarte Tatin. Entrees, $21 to $28. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 399-5811.

Josie, Josie Le Balch’s cozy restaurant, looks as if it could easily be in San Francisco or New York. First courses run from classic to gutsy, and a handful of nightly specials often are based on game. Specialties: grilled cuttlefish, campfire trout, buffalo foie burger and truffle fries. Entrees, $18 to $32. 2424 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 581-9888.

J.R.’s Bar-B-Que. Entrees, $6.50 to $22. 3055 S. La Cienega Blvd., Culver City; (310) 837-6838. See Page 24 for more.

J.R. Seafood is the best the Westside has to offer in terms of Chinese seafood. Specialties: steamed live prawns, lobster in X.O. sauce, crab in black bean sauce. Entrees, $10 to $15. 11901 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 268-2463.

Juliano’s raw. It’s not much of a leap from admiring the vegetables at the Santa Monica farmers’ market to eating at this raw food guru’s restaurant. Ingredients--mushrooms, roots, nuts, purees, flowers--are all certified 100% organic. Specialties: fruit smoothies, guacamole, Tijuana taco. Entrees, $20 to $30. 609 Broadway, Santa Monica; (310) 587-1552.

Julienne is sometimes unfairly dismissed as the place of choice for well-heeled San Marino “ladies who lunch.” With its marble bistro tables spilling onto the sidewalk, this cafe has lots of charm. Specialties: chicken and dried apricot salad, crispy lemon cumin chicken breast, Normandy quiche, mustard-roasted salmon, baked creme brulee French toast and desserts. Entrees, $12 to $19. 2649 Mission St., San Marino; (626) 441-2299.

Kagaya in Little Tokyo shows that there’s more to Japanese cooking than raw fish. A meal includes appetizers, soup, house-made pickled vegetables and dessert. Specialties: shabu-shabu with Australian Wagyu beef and rice soup. Set menu, $38 to $98 per person. 418 E. 2nd St., Los Angeles; (213) 617-1016.

Kate Mantilini gets a late-night crowd, especially after a film showing at the nearby Writers Guild. It features a dramatic contemporary setting for basic diner fare. Specialties: eggs, oysters, burgers, steaks, omelets, meatloaf. Entrees, $7 to $35. 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 278-3699.

Katmandu Kitchen serves Nepalese food, which is related to Indian food about the same way that Southern barbecue is related to backyard barbecue: that is, earthier and punchier. Specialties: bhat-mas sadeko (steamed soybeans), Everest dumplings, lamb or chicken masala. Entrees, $4 to $8. 10855 1/2 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 836-9696.

Kinara Spa Cafe. Breakfast items, $6.50 to $11.50; lunch, $7 to $15. 656 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 657-9188. See Page 20 for more.

Koi attracts crowds with its fireside lounge and bamboo-decorated patios. On weekends, trendoids wait up to an hour for bite-size crispy rice with spicy tuna and other Euro-Asian offerings. Specialties: cucumber salad, black cod bronzed with miso, pan-roasted duck. Entrees, $8 to $26. 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 659-9449.

L.A. Chicken Center. This Koreatown restaurant serves nothing but chicken. The limited menu--just 10 or 11 dishes--re-creates a style of casual dining common in Korea but new to Los Angeles diners. Specialties: game hen soup, rice-stuffed whole chicken, gochujang gui chicken. Entrees, $7 to $18. 3400 W. 8th St., Los Angeles; (213) 380-0256.

La Brea Bakery. Morning pastries, $1 to $5; breads, $1 to $12.50. 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 939-6813. See Page 21 for more.

La Cachette is where chef Jean Francois Meteigner thrives on cooking what he does best: classic French food with a California touch. Specialties: foie gras, roasted squab, rack of lamb. Entrees, $26 to $38. 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Century City; (310) 470-4992.

La Conversation. Morning pastries, $1.75 to $3. 638 N. Doheny Dr., West Hollywood; (310) 858-0950. See Page 10 for more.

La Parrilla has long been a favorite spot for traditional Mexican food. Entrees come with excellent rice, beans and tortillas. Specialties: molcajete Mary Carmen, grilled seafood, shrimp “sandwich,” guacamole. Entrees, $7 to $32. 2126 Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights; (323) 262-3434. Also in Los Angeles and Covina.

La Serenata de Garibaldi, the beloved Boyle Heights Mexican seafood place, is packed at lunch and quieter at dinner. Specialties: quesadillas, sopes, fish tacos, camarones in molcajete sauce, flan. Entrees, $11 to $24. 1842 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights; (323) 265-2887; 1416 4th St., Santa Monica; (310) 656-7017.

La Serenata Gourmet is the more casual spinoff of the above. Specialties: fish tacos, shrimp gorditas, mushroom, poblano pepper and cheese quesadillas, Mexican shrimp with mojo de ajo sauce. Entrees, $7 to $20. 10924 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 441-9667.

Lake Spring Shanghai stands out as one of the best in a city full of wonderful Chinese restaurants. Specialties: dumplings, braised tofu, pork “pump” (pork leg cooked in Chinese plum sauce until it’s so tender you can cut it with a spoon). Entrees, $10 to $20. 219 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-3571.

Langano, the Valley’s only Ethiopian restaurant, offers wats (spicy stews) and kitfo (ground beef mixed with butter and cardamom). Specialties: vegetarian dishes, including ye-shiro wat (ground split peas with a buttery, garlicky red sauce). Entrees, $5 to $12. 14838 Burbank Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 786-2670.

Langer’s Deli has served L.A. since 1947. Specialties: pastrami (menu item No. 44--grilled pastrami and sauerkraut with cheese), brisket, corned beef. Pastrami sandwich, $10. 704 S. Alvarado St., Los Angeles; (213) 483-8050.

Lares Restaurant is known for its big, meaty versions of Mexican dishes with boisterous sauces. The Santa Monica restaurant can be boisterous too, when margarita-happy customers join in with strolling mariachis. Specialties: chile verde, costillas de puerco, carne asada, carnitas, camarones a la diabla. Entrees, $9 to $22. 2909 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 829-4550.

Lawry’s the Prime Rib has the dining experience down to a science. The menu is as streamlined as they come. Specialties: spinning bowl salad, Lawry’s cut, Diamond Jim Brady cut, hot fudge sundae, coconut banana cream pie. Entrees, $25 to $40. 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 652-2827.

Le Dome, the Sunset Strip’s grande dame, has been given a glam makeover and an updated menu. Specialties: mussels Belgian-style, bluefin tuna carpaccio, diver scallops, pasta and caviar, crispy air-dried duck. Entrees, $25 to $40. 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 659-6919.

Lemon Moon. Breakfast, $4 to $9.50; lunch items, $4 to $12. 12200 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 442-9191. See Page 20 for more.

Lempira Restaurante Hondureno is the sort of treasured hole in the wall that attracts chefs looking for inspiration and foodies who frequent places notable for great food regardless of the settings. Specialties: sopa de caracol (seafood chowder), tamales, plantains mounded with ground beef, tajadas con pollo frito. Entrees, $1 to $9. 4848 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 662-2927.

Le Petit Four. Aperitifs, $7.50 to $8.50. 8654 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 652-3863. See Page 23 for more.

Lilly’s French Cafe & Wine Bar, with polished bistro cooking, is about as French a cafe as you can find in Los Angeles. Specialties: steamed mussels, goat cheese and leek tart, bourride de poissons (seafood stew), chicken with rosemary. Entrees, $13 to $20. 1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 314-0004.

The Little Door has captured the spirit of the south of France. The attitude is French, and the menu covers France and the sun-drenched Mediterranean. If only the food were something to write home about. Specialties: mezze, goat cheese and pistachio tart, crispy duck leg confit, lamb shank tajine, duo of roasted duck with blood orange marmalade sauce. Entrees, $24 to $32. 8164 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 951-1210.

The Lobster, a busy waterfront seafood restaurant that sits at the top of the Santa Monica Pier, has both an open-air bar and clamorous casual dining room. Specialties: lobster cocktail, steamed mussels and clams, soft-shell crabs, crab cakes, Copper River salmon, butterscotch creme brulee. Entrees, $19 to $54. 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 458-9294.

Locanda Veneta feels like a casual trattoria hidden on one of Venice’s back canals. Specializing in northern Italian cuisine, it has been resting on its laurels for years. But if you order carefully, you can have a reasonably good meal. Specialties: clam soup, penne with spicy tomato sauce, grilled jumbo shrimp. Entrees, $13 to $28. 8638 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (310) 274-1893.

L’Orangerie seems to have a revolving door for chefs. Whoever is cooking, the food is thoroughly French, haute and expensive. Weekends are more lively, and now on Sundays wine buffs can BYOB for the first time in the restaurant’s history. Specialties: egg in the shell with caviar, Maine lobster in gelee, terrine of foie gras, rotisserie squab, beef tenderloin, chocolate souffle. Entrees, $29 to $58. 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 652-9770.

¡Loteria! Grill has become a kind of cult place, a great little Mexican stall at the original Farmers Market where everything is made from scratch--even the tortillas. Specialties: enchiladas; beef, pork or potato tacos; aguas frescas. Tacos, $2.25 to $2.65; burritos, $7; enchiladas, $9. 6333 W. 3rd St., No. 322, Los Angeles; (323) 930-2211.

Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue deals in family-style Santa Maria barbecue. This isn’t sophisticated dining; the food comes on metal camping plates, and drinks, including wine, are served in Mason jars. Specialties: tri-tip, barbecue pork, rotisserie-grilled chicken, grilled linguica (Portuguese sausage). Entrees, $9 to $17. 21501 Brookhurst St., Suite D, Huntington Beach; (714) 965-5200.

Lucky’s steakhouse--the brainchild of Gene Montesano, co-owner of Lucky Brand Dungarees, and chef James Sly--offers chophouse fare prepared with flair. Specialties: shrimp cocktail, skinny onion rings, home-fried potatoes, New York strip steak, porterhouse. Entrees, $12 to $62. 1279 Coast Village Road, Montecito; (805) 565-7540.

Lucques. Entrees, $21 to $32; cheese plate, $12. 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (323) 655-6277. See Page 11 for more.

Luna Park. This outpost of the hip San Francisco restaurant features a moderately priced menu of American dishes with French, Italian and Asian influences. Specialties: pork satay, moules frites, baby spinach salad, soups, grilled flatiron steak. Entrees, $10 to $16. 672 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 934-2110.

Madeo can offer an authentic Italian experience if you know what to order. Order badly, and you’ll wonder what all the fuss is about. Either way, you’ll enjoy the ambience and attentive service. Specialties: ravioli in walnut sauce, grilled branzino, veal chop. Entrees, $20 to $34. 8897 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 859-4903.

Maison Akira has lovely service and graceful French cooking with Japanese flair by chef-owner Akira Hirose. Specialties: seared ahi tuna, Maine lobster bisque, baby rack of lamb in rosemary sauce. Entrees, $25 to $39. 713 E. Green St., Pasadena; (626) 796-9501.

Maithai Thai Restaurant is a simple, comfortable place where chef Khun Dang cooks Isaan (northeastern) dishes as well as traditional Thai cuisine. Specialties: larb (seasoned ground beef), papaya salad, Maithai curry, pad Thai, fried bananas. Entrees, $5 to $13. 637 N. Spring St., Los Angeles; (213) 613-1115.

Mako Restaurant has a fresh, contemporary design with the feel of an informal cafe. The food is Asian fusion from the former chef at Chinois on Main. Specialties: crispy oysters, sauteed foie gras, whole lobster with black bean sauce, yuzu tart. Entrees, $5 to $23. 225 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 288-8338.

The crowd at Malo is young and ready to drink and snack the night away in this Mexican bar/restaurant. The food is just OK. Specialties: salsa and chips, pozole, ceviche mixta, tacos dorados with ground beef and pickles, beans. Entrees, $7 to $15. 4326 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 664-1011.

Mama’s Hot Tamales Cafe. Specialties: tamales, Oaxacan ice creams. Entrees, $1 to $7. 2124 W. 7th St., Los Angeles; (213) 487-7474.

Mamounia serves up simmering Moroccan food in a modest, lovely, distinctly homey environment. The meal is a multi-course affair with soups, salads, a choice of 10 main dishes and more. Specialties: mrouzia (honey lamb), lemon chicken, quail kebab. Dinner, $27 to $34 per person. 132 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 360-7535.

Mandaloun. Entrees, $13 to $22. 141 S. Maryland St., Glendale; (818) 507-1900. See Page 22 for more.

Maple Drive is a completely different restaurant under Spago alum Eric Klein. He’s excited to be there, constantly fiddling with the menu and turning out truly delicious French-California food. Specialties: tarte flambee, foie gras spring rolls, upside-down pineapple cake. Entrees, $15 to $42. 345 N. Maple Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 274-9800.

Massimo’s Gelato is a gem, as charming as any neighborhood gelateria you might find in Florence or Milan. The food is freshly made and often exquisitely simple. Specialties: ginger gelato, pear sorbetto, smoked salmon salad, panini. Gelati, $3 to $4; panini and omelets, $5 to $9. 1029 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 581-2485.

Mastro’s Steakhouse touts itself as the steakhouse with a personality. Portions are huge, the steaks are aged prime, but the sides need work. Specialties: Kansas City strip, pork porterhouse, fried onions, au gratin potatoes. Entrees, $30 to $60 (29-ounce lobster tail). 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 888-8782.

Matsuhisa is Nobu Matsuhisa’s original restaurant, where he honed his admired fusion of South American and Japanese flavors. Reserve a seat at the tempura bar for an omakase that includes his latest creations. Specialties: sushi, “new-style sashimi,” squid “pasta.” Dinner, $65 to $85 per person; omakase, $75. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 659-9639.

Max has been welcomed by the Valley with open arms. It’s heartening to see diners flock to a neighborhood restaurant with such integrity and spirit. Specialties: lumpia (shrimp and pork spring rolls), Thai lemon grass-coconut soup, roasted half chicken. Entrees, $16 to $26. 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 784-2915.

Meals by Genet proves that Genet Agonafer is a versatile cook with a menu divided between Ethiopian and European dishes, the latter mostly being Italian. Specialties: doro wot (chicken stew with red chiles), vegetarian side dishes, yebere tsiga tibs (spiced steak chunks), lamb stew. Entrees, $6 to $14. 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 938-9304.

Melisse chef Josiah Citrin looks as if he’s run a marathon after a night behind the stoves. He has, in a way. Citrin pours everything he’s got into this ambitious French-influenced restaurant. Specialties: seared foie gras, cote de boeuf, chef’s tasting menu. Entrees, $30 to $38. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 395-0881.

Michael’s, which was founded by Michael McCarty in 1979, is one of the original bastions of California cuisine, incorporating French cooking styles and ingredients. Specialties: hazelnut-crusted goat cheese salad, grilled Mediterranean loup de mer, maple leaf duck breast. Entrees, $28 to $39. 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica; (310) 451-0843.

Mille Fleurs is a first-rate French restaurant secluded in Rancho Santa Fe, offering the graceful cooking of its German-born chef. Martin Woesle’s menus, which change daily, feature seasonal local ingredients. Specialties: lobster salad, pickled herring, grilled filet of beef, poached halibut cheeks, sauteed skate wing. Entrees, $29 to $36. 6009 Paseo Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe; (858) 756-3085.

Mimosa. Entrees, $15.50 to $26; three-course seasonal menu, $36. 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 655-8895. See Page 11 for more.

Minibar. Dishes, $5 to $14. 3413 W. Cahuenga Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 882-6965. See Page 14 for more.

Though the interior is cozy at Mirabeau, the best tables at this French bistro are on the outdoor patio. The first bite is always important, and Mirabeau comes through with flying colors. Specialties: steak frites, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic, Moroccan lamb osso buco, cassoulet. Entrees, $16.50 to $25.50. 17 Monarch Bay Plaza, Monarch Beach; (949) 234-1679.

Mission 261 has something to suit every situation and pocketbook. There’s probably nothing outside Asia quite like the dim sum scene here. Specialties: taro dumplings, steamed shrimp dumplings, deep-fried pigeon, steamed chicken rolled with bamboo pith in pumpkin sauce. Dim sum, $2 to $7; entrees for three or more, $9 to $47. 261 S. Mission Drive, San Gabriel; (626) 588-1666.

Moonshadows of old this is not. The revamped restaurant offers a smart, beachside menu. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, New England clam chowder, lobster salad, Florida snapper in shallot caper sauce, roasted organic free-range chicken. Entrees, $17 to $24. 20356 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu; (310) 456-3010.

Morels French Steakhouse. Despite a dining room that’s overscaled and understaffed, the executive chef comes through with some respectable French cooking. An outdoor terrace overlooks the scene at the Grove from on high. Specialties: raw oysters, fondue, French onion soup, baby spinach and smoked duck salad, porterhouse steak. Entrees, $19 to $35. 189 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles; (323) 965-9595.

Mori Sushi. Sushi, $4 to $16; omakase, $80 to $150. 11500 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles; (310) 479-3939. See Page 17 for more.

Mortons, long an industry haunt for the A-list, gets by with straightforward contemporary fare in a glamorous, airy room decorated with serious art. Specialties: shrimp quesadilla, dry-aged steaks, lime-grilled free-range chicken. Entrees, $24 to $34. 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (310) 276-5205.

The owner of Mr. Baguette credits his American-raised children for inspiring his endeavor. Like the casual theme restaurants his teens love, his shop emphasizes a motif: French, with Parisian decor and a glass display case filled with house-made pates and head cheese. Specialties: dac biet sandwich, roast chicken sandwich, iced coffee. Sandwiches, $2 to $4. 8702 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead; (626) 288-9166.

Mr. Chow is a favorite with both old Hollywood and a younger, plugged-in crowd. The staff is adept at making guests feel as if they belong to a smart, exclusive club. Specialties: scallion pancake, mixed dumplings, lobster two ways, Peking duck. Entrees, $25 to $36. 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 278-9911.

Musso & Frank Grill still serves the best martini in town, and the best seats are at the counter. Sit elbow to elbow with old-timers swapping stories with longtime Musso servers. Specialties: double-cut lamb chops, steaks, grilled calf’s liver. Entrees, $15 to $38; flannel cakes, $6. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 467-7788.

Napa Rose features views of Disney’s California Adventure, chef Andrew Sutton’s skillful California cuisine and a first-rate wine service. Specialties: Gulf of California rock scallops, grilled pork chop, rack of Colorado spring lamb, Tahitian vanilla creme brulee. Entrees, $26 to $37. Grand Californian Hotel, 1600 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim; (714) 300-7170.

Nate n’ Al has been doling out crispy rye bread, whitefish, knishes and blintzes since 1945. A deli is a deli is a deli, but a beloved star-studded Beverly Hills deli and restaurant is another thing entirely. Specialties: Nova Scotia salmon, corned beef, Reuben sandwich. Entrees, $9 to $16. 414 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 274-0101.

Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa. House specialty platter for two, $12. 9016 Mission Drive, Rosemead; (626) 286-3370. See Page 22 for more.

The Vietnamese-style fish and seafood dishes at Ngoc Suong--a rarity in Little Saigon, where Chinese places monopolize seafood dining--are its biggest draw. Specialties: lemon leaves-grilled chicken (No. 23), sticky rice and black beans in bamboo stick (No. 24), goi dau que, mango ice cream, Grand Marnier truffles. Entrees, $6 to $36. 10112 Westminster Ave., Garden Grove; (714) 539-8811.

Ngoma. Entrees, $10 to $15. 5358 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 934-1595. See Page 22 for more.

Nick & Stef’s Steakhouse reinvents the genre. Huge prime slabs of beef sit in an aging room, and appetizers, sides, potatoes and sauces each come in a dozen inventive variations, though the food can be uneven. Specialties: filet mignon, rib-eye, lamb chops, double-cut pork chop. Entrees, $19 to $37. 330 S. Hope St., Los Angeles; (213) 680-0330.

Nico’s is a contemporary American bistro on Naples Island. It’s chic and modern with winning decor and fine food. Specialties: carpaccio, Maytag salad, rack of lamb, bread pudding. Entrees, $23 to $30. 5760 E. 2nd St., Long Beach; (562) 434-4479.

Nine-Ten doesn’t feel much like a hotel restaurant, and that’s a good thing. The chef is a stickler for ingredients and gets much of his produce from Chino Farms. Specialties: Julian apple and fennel salad, house-smoked salmon, Nantucket bay scallops, strawberry-rhubarb tart. Entrees, $13 to $34. Grande Colonial Hotel, 910 Prospect St., La Jolla; (858) 964-5400.

Nirvana. Appetizers, $8 to $14; entrees, $18 to $39. 8689 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 657-5040. See Page 14 for more.

Nobu Malibu--another trendy venue from international restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa--features cooked dishes that are as important as the sashimi and sushi. Specialties: sushi, sashimi, soft-shell crab spring roll, whole grilled fish. Entrees, $6 to $32; sushi and sashimi, $5 to $9 for two pieces. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu; (310) 317-9140.

Noe. Tasting menus, $65 to $95. Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza, 251 S. Olive St., Los Angeles; (213) 356-4100. See Page 9 for more.

Norman’s. Entrees, $29 to $39. 8570 Sunset Blvd., West Holly