2002 Shea Wine Cellars, Block 23, Shea Vineyard

Shea Vineyard, a 200-acre estate in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, is renowned for the quality of its Pinot Noir. The vineyard’s grapes go into wines made by Ken Wright and Sine Qua Non, among others. But a few years ago owner Dick Shea decided to reserve a few blocks for himself and make a wine under his own label, which he calls Shea Wine Cellars.

The fruit shines through this 2002 from Block 23, a parcel planted in 1990 with a Pommard clone from Burgundy. Its flavors are deep in tone, ripe and true to Pinot Noir. Think boysenberries and blackberries and a gently sweet finish. Reflecting a great vintage and a great vineyard, it’s so enjoyable right now that it would be hard to put some away for later. A splendid example of Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley produced in small quantities.

Pinot is about as food-friendly as it gets. Drink it with dishes from grilled salmon or a roast chicken to rack of lamb or a duck magret.

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Quick swirl

Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Price: About $48

Style: Beautifully balanced and silky

Food it goes with: Dishes from grilled salmon to duck magret

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Liquid Partyworks in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Red Carpet in Glendale, (818) 247-5544; Vintage Wines in San Diego, (858) 549-2112; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310)

479-3731.

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-- S. Irene Virbila