Tasty little pick-ups

I must be running with the wrong crowd. Every cocktail party I go to seems to involve hors d’oeuvres that require three hands: one to hold a drink, and two to wrestle the food off a tiny plate and onto a fork.

At a book party recently, waiters were doling out braised pork belly and steamed mushroom dumplings. At a restaurant party, it was seared sliced steak and shrimp over grits. At a chef’s house, it was butterfish on a knot of spicy noodles.

On the plus side, all this fork-dependent food could be a leading esoteric indicator that party fare is getting more ambitious, more amuse bouche than chip and dip. On the downside, it just makes drinking more dangerous. Who has a fourth hand to wield a napkin when the sauce goes dribbling?

As much as I appreciate great advances in appetizers, with caviar served on Chinese soup spoons and foie gras on skewers, I will always believe in the great tradition of comfort over fashion. The very best party food should need no utensil, not even a toothpick. Especially in summertime, the eating should be easy.

Largely because I hate to wash silverware and have no dishwasher (by choice), I have been erring on the side of dainty for many years. I also like nothing better than making a whole meal out of finger food with a little (or a lot) of wine. But I’ve learned the hard way that hors d’oeuvres have to be eminently edible or guests will take the easy way out and skip the food, then blame you for hangovers on under-filled stomachs.

Even with forks out of the picture, though, I want the same payback professionals do from hors d’oeuvres: a lot of flavor in a bite or two. I’ve built up a whole range of reliables over the years, whether gougeres enriched with wild mushrooms, miniature corn pancakes topped with smoked fish, one-bite crab cakes, filo triangles, Lilliputian frittatas, or no end of crostini. But I keep adding new ones, knowing just about any dish can be downsized.

Meatballs are undervalued on the social circuit, mostly because they are usually dull and swim in a messy sauce. At a friend’s restaurant specializing in small plates, though, I tasted some that were so assertively flavored they needed no sauce and fried so crisp they could be picked up without even a toothpick. I tried them at home with beef blended with chipotle chile for heat, scallions for color and Cheddar cheese for ooziness, all in a panko coating. The flavors were great, even at room temperature. But the secret was cooking them not in a deep fryer but in a very hot oven, so they were both crusty and juicy.

I swiped another idea from a relatively old restaurant whose chef had foisted fork food on me at his new place. One of his signature dishes is a blue corn pancake filled with hot braised duck and finger-painted with three spicy sauces, and I realized that the crepe-like tortillas could work with something cold too. Crab meat with mango, jalapenos, cilantro and lime juice tucked inside makes a two-bite sensation.

The same little crepes could enfold any number of other fillings: guacamole, black bean salad, shredded duck confit; you could even saute the meatball mixture and tuck it into the pancakes. Always, the filling should be drained well so that no napkins take the annoying place of the missing forks. And the same filling could also be mounded on tortilla chips.

Summer rolls are even easier to turn into pass-around food, especially when you start with duck confit in the filling. You just have to heat it long enough to bring it back to life, shred it, then layer it with herbs (in this case mint, but you could also use basil) and vegetables (pea shoots and julienned cucumber, but arugula or carrot would also work well) and fold it up like a little burrito. Just before serving you can slice one roll into four bites. It may be heresy, but I put chutney into the mix as well, and serve the rolls with an optional dip of rice wine vinegar seasoned with garlic and sugar, Chiu Chow style.

The stretchy rice paper used as wrappers for the rolls is as forgiving as filo, but instead of patching it with butter you just lay it out and roll it up; even the torn parts will cling together because it’s so pliable after it’s soaked. You can buy it at any Asian market (or many specialty shops).

Tempura is another eminently adaptable idea for a party. A light batter of egg, flour and salt can coat any vegetable, but especially asparagus, before it goes into the deep-fryer. Usually cold water is part of the batter, but club soda adds an effervescence. The combination of crust, oil and vegetable is terrific on its own, but you can ramp it up with dry mustard or sesame seeds or curry powder in the batter. Again, these can be dipped, in tamari or ponzu sauce, but are best appreciated solo.

Finally, brandade has been one of my party staples since I discovered the best way to make it, in a cookbook by the late chef Felipe Rojas-Lombardi. He had the cooking time down so that the salt cod does not turn fibrous, and the seasoning is balanced with cream steeped with a fascinating blend of spices -- bay leaves, juniper berries, allspice -- along with lots of the essential garlic.

In the past I’ve always just made a bowlful and set it out with toasted slices of baguette, but I knew there had to be a one-handed way to make it better. And so I baked it onto shiitake mushroom caps.

As with all the best fork-free food, these hors d’oeuvres take a little more work upfront. But the cleanup is a snap: Everyone eats the evidence and keeps on drinking.

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Brandade in shiitakes

Total time: About 1 hour after overnight soaking

Servings: 6 to 8

Note: This brandade technique is adapted from the late chef Felipe Rojas-Lombardi. The shiitakes should all be small, no more than 2 1/2 inches across, rounded and fairly thick.

1/4 pound boneless dried salt cod

1 cup heavy cream

2 fresh bay leaves

6 allspice berries

6 juniper berries

1 teaspoon whole coriander

2 small dried hot red peppers, crumbled (or 1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes)

12 cloves garlic, peeled: 6 whole, 6 chopped

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut in half

1 medium baking potato, peeled and chopped

32 small shiitakes, stemmed and wiped clean

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

Smoked paprika for garnish

1. Soak the salt cod in cold water overnight, changing water several times.

2. The next day, combine the cream, bay leaves, allspice, juniper berries, coriander and hot peppers in a small saucepan. Add the 6 whole garlic cloves and bring to a simmer. Cook over very low heat 30 minutes, until thickened and well flavored.

3. While the cream steeps, bring a second pot of water to a boil with ginger. Add the cod and return to a boil. Immediately remove with a slotted spoon to a colander to drain. Let stand until cool enough to handle.

4. Boil the potato until soft; drain.

5. Flake the cod with fingers or forks until very fine and place in mixing bowl; discard skin if necessary. Add the potato and mash together. Strain the cream through a fine sieve into the mixture, discarding solids. Mix to a smooth puree. Add the remaining chopped garlic and mix well. Taste and add salt if needed.

6. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the shiitakes in a large shallow bowl and sprinkle with olive oil. Toss until completely coated. Arrange on a large baking sheet in a single layer, stem side up. Mound about 1 tablespoon brandade into the center of each. Dust with paprika.

7. Roast 10 minutes. Cool slightly before serving.

Each of 8 servings: 210 calories; 11 grams protein; 14 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 13 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 62 mg. cholesterol; 380 mg. sodium.

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Blue corn blini with crab and mango

Total time: About 1 hour

Servings: 4 to 6

Filling

1/2 pound Dungeness crab meat, cleaned

1/3 cup peeled, diced mango

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons seeded, minced jalapenos, or more to taste

3 tablespoons lime juice

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

Combine the crab meat, mango, cilantro, jalapenos, lime juice and salt in a bowl and mix well. Let stand at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Blini and assembly

1/2 cup blue cornmeal

1/4 cup flour, sifted

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 large egg

3/4 cup whole milk

2 tablespoons melted butter, cooled slightly

1. Combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, sugar, egg, milk and melted butter in a bowl and whisk until completely smooth.

2. Heat a small crepe pan or medium nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Stir the batter before making each blini. Ladle a scant tablespoon of batter into the pan and tilt it to make a circle no bigger than 3 inches in diameter. Cook until set and slightly golden, about 1 1/2 minutes, then turn over and cook until the second side is cooked. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining batter.

3. Drain the crab mixture in a strainer to remove excess liquid. Lay 1 blini out on a work surface. Spoon 2 tablespoons filling on one side; fold over like a taco. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve immediately. (Makes 24.)

Each of 6 servings: 204 calories; 13 grams protein; 23 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 7 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 75 mg. cholesterol; 543 mg. sodium.

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Duck summer rolls

Total time: About 45 minutes

Servings: 6 to 8

Note: Duck confit is available at Surfas in Culver City, Market Gourmet in Venice, Nicole’s in Pasadena and other specialty food stores.

Chiu Chow dipping sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup rice vinegar

In a small bowl, mix together the garlic, sugar and vinegar. Set aside.

Summer rolls

2 legs duck confit

8 sheets rice paper

8 teaspoons mango chutney

1 cup stemmed pea shoots

1 4-inch chunk seedless

European cucumber, peeled and julienned

8 scallions, green part only, julienned

36 fresh mint leaves, julienned

Chiu Chow dipping sauce

1. Heat the oven to 500 degrees. Line a broiler pan with foil and lay the duck legs on it, skin side down. Bake until heated through, about 10 minutes, then turn and cook until the skin is crisp, about 5 to 8 minutes. Drain on paper towels and let sit until cool enough to handle. Remove the skin (either discard or save to use as a garnish for another dish). Shred the meat into strips.

2. Soak 1 sheet rice paper in shallow bowl of cold water until pliable. Smooth it out on the work surface and spread with 1 teaspoon chutney. Arrange one-eighth of the duck over the bottom quarter of the sheet facing you, leaving about a 1-inch rim. Arrange one-eighth of the pea shoots, cucumber and scallion greens on top of duck. Top with one-eighth of the julienned mint leaves. Fold in the right and left sides of the sheet, then roll up the rice paper like a burrito, but tightly. Set aside on a plate, seam side down. Cover with a damp dish towel.

3. Repeat with the remaining rice paper and filling.

4. To serve, slice each roll into 4 pieces. Serve with Chiu Chow dipping sauce.

Each serving: 55 calories; 6 grams protein; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 1 gram fat; 0 saturated fat; 19 mg. cholesterol; 27 mg. sodium.

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Oven-fried chipotle meatballs

Total time: About 30 minutes

Servings: 6 to 8

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1/2 pound lean ground beef

1 small egg

1/4 cup panko or fine dry bread crumbs, plus extra for coating

1 canned chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, minced

3 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar

Flour for coating

1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Brush a large shallow baking pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Set aside.

2. Combine the ground beef, egg, panko, chipotle, scallions, cumin, oregano, salt and cheese. Mix well. The mixture should just hold together.

3. Shape the mixture into balls about the size of a small walnut (about 1-inch diameter). Roll each meatball first in flour, shaking off the excess, then in panko, coating completely. Arrange the meatballs on the oiled baking sheet. Drizzle very, very lightly with the remaining olive oil.

4. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, shaking the pan several times so that the meatballs crisp and brown on all sides. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels. Cool slightly. (Makes 24 meatballs.)

Each meatball: 117 calories; 9 grams protein; 3 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 8 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 45 mg. cholesterol; 387 mg. sodium.

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Asparagus tempura

Total time: About 25 minutes

Servings: 6

36 skinny asparagus

1 large egg

1 cup flour plus extra for dredging

1 teaspoon sea salt plus extra for seasoning

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 cup very cold club soda

Peanut or canola oil for frying

Tempura or ponzu dipping sauce if desired

1. Cut 4-inch pieces from the tip of the asparagus and set aside remaining pieces for another use. Wash the asparagus well in cold water. Dry completely.

2. In wide shallow bowl, whisk together the egg, 1 cup flour, salt, cayenne pepper and club soda.

3. Pour oil to a depth of about 3 inches in a deep heavy saucepan. Heat to 360 degrees.

4. Dredge the asparagus spears in flour, shaking off excess, then in batter. Working in batches, lay the asparagus into the hot oil and fry just until golden brown and crisp, turning to brown all sides, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels and sprinkle with additional salt. Serve hot, with ponzu or tempura dipping sauce if desired.

Each serving: 183 calories; 5 grams protein; 19 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 10 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 35 mg. cholesterol; 397 mg. sodium.