With a tender touch
SO you’re standing at the meat counter on your way home from work. The pork chops look terrific and they’re priced right for a family dinner -- but how are you going to cook them?
A frequent comment I hear from friends these days is that they love pork chops in restaurants but can’t seem to get the same juicy, tender results at home. Too often, even a favorite recipe turns out tough and dry.
With today’s leaner pork, a new rule of thumb applies, but the change -- shorter cooking time -- is to the home cook’s advantage. There’s nothing easier to make for a snappy weeknight dinner than pork chops, and once you have the simple technique in mind, you’ll be inspired to try all sorts of variations.
Just keep in mind four quick steps: Season the meat, sear it, make a sauce as you deglaze the pan and finish the meat in the sauce.
The same technique applies whether you’re making everyday chops seasoned with thyme and garlic, spicy tomato-olive sauced chops or a dressier preparation that features a rich, cream-based sage sauce. All of these sauces are quickly pulled together to take advantage of the fact that the chops will have a total cooking time of only about six to 10 minutes.
Lean pork chops should never be cooked to well done. Because they don’t have generous fat and marbling, they’re easily overcooked. The challenge is to turn out juicy chops with an appetizingly browned exterior and a slightly pink center.
Look for quality
FIRST, select the right chops. Look for the lean, high-quality chops that are more widely available these days. Choose either medium (three-fourths- to 1-inch) or thick (1 1/2 - to 2-inch) cuts for recipes that call for pan-searing and finishing the chops in the sauce. Thin (less than three-fourths-inch) cut chops will overcook before they brown. These are better simply seasoned and grilled fast on high heat.
Cooking time varies according to the cut of chop, whether it is boneless or bone-in, and the amount of fat along the outside edge. Fat takes longer to cook, so trim off excess fat. Bone-in pork chops will take a little longer then boneless chops.
If you are cooking meat you’ve just purchased, it should be tempered by the time you’re home and ready to cook. If the meat has been refrigerated, season it and let it stand for half an hour before cooking.
To sear pork chops, heat equal amounts butter and olive oil over medium-high heat in a heavy skillet. The high heat is needed to get a good sear in a short amount of time. The combination of butter and olive oil will help prevent the butter from burning. Cook the chops three to six minutes per side.
Don’t worry if they’re red in the center at this stage; they’ll continue to cook after being removed to a plate and covered in foil.
Next, deglaze the pan with wine, broth or water, scraping up any nicely browned bits of meat. Add any additional sauce ingredients. Finishing the chops in the sauce means just that -- a brief heating to marry the flavors of the sauce and the pork. Don’t get distracted and walk away; the chops should only cook for one to eight minutes depending on the thickness of the chops. Even two or three additional minutes can dry out the chop.
To test for doneness, make a tiny cut. If the juices run clear or very light pink, the pork chop is done. Another way to test for doneness is by touching. The surface should feel firm but not hard.
Finally, until you get a feel for the technique, you can use a thermometer. Insert it into the side of the chop not touching the bone. It should read 132 to 135 degrees after browning; the temperature will rise as the covered chops stand while you prepare the sauce.
Juicy and tender, with a delicious sauce to spoon over rice or potatoes too -- pork chops made this way are even snazzy enough for the weekends.
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Weeknight pork chops
Total time: 20 minutes
Servings: 4
Note: Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops; adjust cooking time accordingly.
4 medium boneless loin pork chops
1 clove garlic, cut in half
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons butter, divided
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 cup high-quality purchased chicken broth
2 sprigs thyme
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley or chervil
1. Pat any excess moisture from the surface of the pork chops. Rub both sides of the chops with the cut garlic. Season both sides with salt and pepper.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon butter and oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pork chops and sear 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned. Remove pork chops to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.
3. Pour off excess fat. Add the chicken broth, stirring to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of pan. Add the thyme and the crushed garlic clove.
4. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook until reduced to one-half cup, about 2 minutes. Add the chops back to the pan and cook 1 to 2 minutes to heat and finish cooking. Remove the chops from the skillet.
5. Remove the garlic and thyme. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons butter, tilting the pan and swirling the butter until the sauce is slightly thickened. Spoon the sauce over the chops. Sprinkle with parsley or chervil and serve.
Each serving: 223 calories; 17 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 17 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 68 mg. cholesterol; 148 mg. sodium.
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Pork chops with fresh tomato sauce
Total time: 30 minutes
Servings: 2
Note: Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops and adjust cooking time accordingly.
2 thick center-cut loin pork chops
1 clove garlic, cut in half
1/2 teaspoon sea salt plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
2 teaspoons butter
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 cup seeded diced Roma tomatoes
1/3 cup chicken broth
Sprig of thyme
3-inch strip orange peel
12 small green olives
1. Pat any moisture from the surface of the pork chops. Rub both sides of each chop with the cut clove of garlic. Season with one-half teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper.
2. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy 10-inch saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pork chops and brown both sides of the pork, about 5 to 6 minutes on each side. During the last minute of cooking turn the pork chops on end to sear the edges. Remove the chops from the skillet to a plate, cover and keep warm.
3. Add the minced garlic to the skillet and saute about 10 seconds. Add the tomatoes, stirring to scrape up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan.
4. Stir in the chicken broth to deglaze the pan. Add the thyme, orange peel and olives. Bring to a simmer and cook 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the browned pork chops with any drippings back into the pan.
5. Simmer 5 to 8 minutes, stirring the sauce occasionally, until the pork chops are still pink in the center.
Each serving: 365 calories; 38 grams protein; 5 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 21 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 96 mg. cholesterol; 755 mg. sodium.
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Pork chops with sage cream
Total time: 25 minutes
Servings: 4
Note: Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops and adjust cooking time accordingly.
4 medium or thick boneless loin pork chops
1 clove garlic, cut in half
1/2 teaspoon sea salt kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
3/4 cup good-quality purchased chicken broth
3/4 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon minced sage
1. Pat any excess moisture from the surface of the pork chops. Rub the chops with the cut garlic; season with the salt and pepper.
2. Heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the chops until browned on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. The chops should be not quite done. Remove the chops from the skillet to a plate. Cover and keep warm.
3. Reduce the heat to medium low. Add the minced garlic and saute about 10 seconds. Stir in the chicken broth, scraping up browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the cream and sage; stir to blend.
4. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce begins to thicken slightly, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add the pork chops with any drippings back to the skillet with the sauce. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes, until the chops are firm to the touch and just pink in the center.
Each serving: 465 calories; 29 grams protein; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 38 grams fat; 18 grams saturated fat; 159 mg. cholesterol; 316 mg. sodium.
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Pork chops with wine sauce
Total time: 30 minutes
Servings: 4
Note: Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops and adjust cooking time accordingly.
4 medium rib or loin pork chops
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon minced shallots
2 tablespoons minced carrots
2 tablespoons minced celery
1/3 cup white wine
3/4 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon cold butter, cut up
1. Pat any moisture from the surface of the chops. Season with the salt and pepper.
2. Heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium high heat. Add the pork chops to the skillet and sear until both sides are nicely browned, about 3 to 4 minutes each side. Remove the chops from the skillet to a plate cover and keep warm.
3. Reduce the heat to low. Pour out all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the skillet. Add the shallots, carrots and celery and quickly saute for about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the white wine and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom.
4. Stir in the chicken broth. Bring the sauce to a simmer; cook until reduced by half.
5. Add the pork chops back into the skillet along with any drippings and simmer, spooning the juices over the chops as they cook, 1 to 2 minutes or until the chops are firm and just pink in the center. Remove the chops from the skillet.
6. Add the butter, tilting the pan and swirling the butter until the sauce is slightly thickened. Serve each chop with a little sauce spooned over the top.
Each serving: 284 calories; 30 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 16 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 84 mg. cholesterol; 322 mg. sodium.
