Primo patties
Pacific Dining Car
What makes the burgers at this manly spot so darn good? It’s the meat. They grind their own, from trimmings from prime meat they age in house. So the burger -- which is grilled over mesquite charcoal and available 24/7 (for anyone who needs a fix at, say, 3 a.m.) -- is full of beefy flavor. Add a little of the signature steak relish, a subtly sweet recipe that puts plain old ketchup to shame.
* Burger, $18.95. 1310 W. 6th St., L.A., (213) 483-6000
Josie
Sometimes more really is more. At Josie LeBalch’s infinitely likable grown-up restaurant, the buffalo burger is stuffed with Gruyere cheese and Dijon mustard, topped with a mixture of grilled portabello mushrooms and braised onions, a slab of foie gras, sliced tomato, a drizzle of brown mushroom sauce, and served on a toasted house- made brioche bun with a side of truffle fries. Don’t try this at home.
* Burger, $27. 2424 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 581-9888
Bandera
The kitchen at this Houston’s sibling with a bopping bar scene, not to mention bopping sounds served up nightly by a jazz trio, turns out a burger that will please traditionalists. Served on an egg-sesame bun with melted Tillamook cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, white onion, mayo, French’s mustard and two kinds of pickles (sliced dill and sweet relish), the 8-ounce patty is grilled over almond wood.
* Burger, $14. 11700 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., (310) 477-3524
Opah
As the name -- a Hawaiian fish -- suggests, this lively restaurant is best known for its seafood menu. But there’s also a terrific Kobe burger. Served on homemade focaccia, it comes topped with caramelized onions. Three cheese choices are available. Chef Mark Cohen recommends gorgonzola.
* Burger, $9; with cheese, $10. 26851 Aliso Creek Road, Aliso Viejo, (949) 360-8822
Grace
On Sundays only at this sophisticated new American spot, chef Neal Fraser turns out glorious Australian Kobe beef burgers, layered with homemade dill pickles, ketchup and aioli on homemade buns. Cheese is optional. Choose from blue, Gruyere or, if you want to splurge, tartufo bianco -- an Italian cheese shot through with shaved truffle.
* Burger and fries, $16; with tartufo bianco, $21. 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 934-4400
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-- Leslee Komaiko