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Plants

Busy, while it sizzles

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The Monthly Gardener by

YES, it’s hot outside, but believe it or not there are things to do in the August garden, other than water. It’s the time when most iris fanciers choose to divide their plants and when a few intrepid souls plant sweet peas, or sow seeds of flowers and vegetables in flats for fall planting. In the parts of Los Angeles and Orange counties where winters are particularly mild, you can even plant tomatoes for mid-winter harvest.

Watering wisdom

L.A. homeowners have been asked to use about 10% less water this summer because of our nearly rainless winter. You could cut showers short, but there are painless ways to save in the garden. Begin by fixing any broken sprinklers. It’s amazing how many homes send torrents of water down the gutter because one sprinkler head has snapped off. Broken ones are easy to replace, and using special swivel fittings between the pipe and the head will help keep them from breaking again. Ask how to make one of these flexible fittings at a nursery, hardware or irrigation supply firm. Irrigating early in the morning when there are no breezes helps to keep water from blowing away. Mulching helps to keep the soil moist and slow evaporation. L.A. gives away mulch. Look for locations at www.lacity.org/san/solid_ resources/pdfs/mulching_poster.pdf.

Naked ladies month

Amaryllis belladonna are South African bulbs that bloom in late summer when the stems have no leaves, thus the common name “naked ladies.” The plants are incredibly tough, living on rainfall alone. They bloom in un-irrigated cow pastures and in urban lots. The common kinds have clusters of elegant pink trumpet flowers, and there are hybrids with pink and white or wine-colored blossoms, or extra-large flowers. This is a good time to plant them and the best time to divide big clumps. Don’t be too hasty to divide clumps because it may take several years for bulbs to begin blooming again.

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Divide bearded iris

Bearded iris need dividing or they will simply stop blooming. The sweet-potato-like rhizomes must be split apart and replanted every few years. Coastal gardeners can start in June or July; inland gardeners usually wait until August or September. But if it’s done by the end of August, the plants will have enough time to become re-established so they will bloom in the spring. Dig the rhizomes up with a spading fork, and shake all the soil from the roots. Cut back the leaves and roots so they are each about 6 inches long. Replant the fat, healthy rhizomes in clumps of three, facing in the direction they are to grow. Space clumps about 12 inches apart and cover rhizomes with about 1/4 -inch of soil.

Sow seed

Hot weather will quickly germinate seed, so if you want to try growing vegetables or flowers from seed to plant in the fall, now is a good time to begin, as surprising as that might sound. Use old nursery containers and a good potting mix, and pick a partially shaded spot to sow seed, being careful not to bury it too deep (the old rule of thumb is twice as deep as the seed is fat). Keep seed moist, and it will quickly sprout. Some things to try: Any of the cool-season vegetables such as cabbage and broccoli or cool-season flowers such as calendula, stock or snapdragons.

Start sweet peas

In Southern California a century ago, gardeners liked to astound visiting Eastern relatives with sweet peas in bloom at Christmastime. They did it by sowing seed in the ground before Labor Day, and it apparently worked even as far inland as San Bernardino. It’s still possible if you plant early varieties this month, such as ‘Early Multiflora’ or ‘Winter Elegance.’ A number of nurseries make sure they have sweet pea seed on hand this time of year. Do a good job of preparing the soil before sowing, adding lots of compost and some fertilizer. Many think seed germinates best if it is soaked overnight before sowing. Plant seeds 1 to 2 inches deep, and press down on the soil so it is in contact with the seed. Protect from slugs, snails and birds (with netting). Water two or three times each week until the seed sprouts, but don’t get the soil soggy wet or the seed will rot.

About those late tomatoes

In mild areas where hard frost is unlikely -- including much of central and eastern L.A., and most of inland Orange County -- it’s possible to have tomatoes in winter, though the skins will get thicker and thicker as the weather cools. Adventuresome gardeners discovered that ‘Champion,’ ‘Celebrity’ and ‘Sweet 100,’ if planted now, would produce even in the middle of winter.

Plant more vines than normal; individual plants won’t make nearly as much fruit, and plant them in a protected spot, preferably against a south-facing wall where they’ll get reflected heat. Ignore the normally good advice to plant tomatoes deep, because they’ll do better in winter if their roots are closer to the surface.

If summer’s tomatoes were diseased, consider planting garlic in fall and winter where tomatoes grow in spring and summer. Some research suggests that the garlic will help clean up the soil-borne tomato diseases. If tomatoes are still healthy but have stopped bearing, don’t pull them out quite yet. They often begin producing again as the weather cools.

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Get ready for fall planting

There are some compelling reasons to modify gardens so they do not use as much water, such as the possible 10-year drought forecasters are talking about. The time to make those changes is not in summer, but in mid- to late fall and early winter. That’s the best time to plant just about anything in Southern California, especially drought-resistant plants including our own natives. The weather will be cool, the sun low, and soaking rains might help with the watering. Now is the time to make plans for this busiest of gardening seasons.

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