Where herbs are king
At this time of year, like many cooks, I’m obsessed with fresh herbs. But you can keep your Genovese basil, French tarragon and Italian parsley; for me the magic is in the leafy aromatics of the Vietnamese table -- red perilla, garlic chives and rice paddy herb, to name just a few. I grow the herbs in my garden as well as purchase them by the bunch at farmers markets and Asian markets to ensure that I savor as much as I can during their peak hot-weather season.
Fresh herbs are essential to Vietnamese cuisine; their flavors and perfumes enliven countless foods. Pinched off their stems or chopped, raw leaves are tucked into rice paper rolls, dropped into hot soup, mixed into cool salads, stir-fried with noodles and wrapped up with grilled morsels in lettuce. Vietnamese people enjoy large quantities of fresh herbs, and in fact, herbs are collectively known as rau thom, which means “fragrant vegetable.”
Consider their role in pho noodle soup: The ubiquitous national dish of Vietnam depends on the last-minute addition of herbs, without which the flavors would seem off and the dining experience would feel incomplete.
Heady beef pho, redolent of star anise and cinnamon, benefits from the bright notes of chopped cilantro that the cook sprinkles atop the hot broth right before the bowl leaves the kitchen. Then at the table, there are more herbs involved as diners add their personal touches with torn leaves of Thai basil, culantro or mint; dropping in extra herbs while working toward the bottom of the bowl is fine too.
Fresh herbs are integral to the layering of flavors in Vietnamese cuisine, as well as the “have it your way” Vietnamese dining philosophy.
Aside from contributing to the symphony of flavors in the mouth, some fresh herbs aid digestion, while others are Vietnamese folk remedies for fever, colds and headaches. When you combine the herbs with chiles, spices and aromatics such as ginger, galangal and turmeric, which all boast their own health benefits, you have a potent phytochemical mix.
When my family settled in Southern California in 1975, the only herbs we recognized at the supermarket were cilantro, mint and the occasional sprig of dill. That worked OK because cilantro and mint are the herbs used most often in the Vietnamese repertoire.
My family of seven went through a couple of bunches a week for salads, soups and rice paper rolls. When dill was available, the feathery tops were used for favorites such as canh rieu ca, a traditional everyday soup featuring fish, tomato and a final flourish of raw garlic and dill.
Today, with Southern California’s robust Vietnamese American community and increased interest in ethnic cooking, the variety of herbs available here includes all the major ones traditionally and currently enjoyed in Vietnam. Between now and late fall, Vietnamese and Chinese markets are flush with herbs.
For a culinary adventure, go to one of Orange County’s Little Saigon markets on a Saturday, when the clamorous crowds and food smells recall the real Saigon. In the produce section, locate the usual suspects, cilantro and mint. Nearby, you might see bunches of a spicy mint called hung cay (Mentha x. gracilis) whose delicate, round-shaped leaves belie their eye-popping flavor.
Equally bracing are the spade-shaped leaves of fish mint (Vietnamese name diep ca, botanical name Houttuynia cordata), also called bishop’s weed, which give a tangy, pungent edge to boldly flavored food such as grilled beef with lemon grass. Cilantro lovers will revel in spear-shaped Vietnamese coriander (rau ram, Polygonum odoratum), which lends its peppery cilantro backbite to Vietnamese soups and salads; rau ram is also popular in other Southeast Asian countries, particularly Malaysia and Singapore, where it is called daun kesom and daun laksa.
Japanese and Korean food aficionados will recognize the large serrated leaves of red perilla (tia to, Perilla frutescens) as a member of the shiso family. Vietnamese cooks favor a variety with leaves that are purple-garnet underneath and green on top and that offers hints of cinnamon, mint and lemon.
Verdant Vietnamese balm (kinh gioi, Elshotzia ciliata) is my favorite Vietnamese herb, its delicate saw-edged, fuzzy leaves have an uncommon lemon grass- or lemon verbena-like quality. The assertive flavors of these two herbs stand up well to grilled meats and are terrific additions to rice paper rolls, lettuce wraps and bun rice noodle bowls.
Asian markets often sell the more delicate herbs already packaged. For example, clove-scented Thai basil (hung que, Ocimum basilicum var.) and thorn-edged slender leaves of culantro (ngo gai, Eryngium foetidum), both wonderful with pho, are typically under plastic wrap on Styrofoam trays.
Small plastic bags often hold charming rice paddy herb (rau om, Limnophila aromatica), its stems and small rounded leaves packed with citrus and cumin notes that pair well with curries and tamarind-inflected seafood soups. Heart-shaped wild betel leaf (la lot, Piper sarmentosum ), classically paired with beef, is either on Styrofoam trays or in small bunches.
Peruse the leafy greens section to find large bunches of flat, long green blades of Chinese chives (he, Allium tuberosum). Hard-core Vietnamese cooks tuck a few raw chives into their goi cuon rice paper rolls to add a mild garlicky bite. During the summer when Chinese chives are abundant and very well-priced, I harvest and purchase humongous bunches to stir-fry with flat rice noodles, pork and shrimp, a childhood favorite of mine.
The chives are used throughout East and Southeast Asia, so you’ll encounter them at many Asian markets.
Vietnamese cuisine is not one to stand still for long, and in recent years, Vietnamese Americans longing for the tartness of star fruit have found a worthy substitute in sorrel (rau chua, Rumex acetosa), and enjoy it with grilled and fried foods. In Vietnam, tender stalks of cutting celery (rau can, Apium graveolens) that resemble Italian flat-leaf parsley have recently appeared on the scene as a pungent addition to favorites such as crisp lotus stem salad.
The overseas Vietnamese community is slowly adopting these practices and you will encounter the nontraditional herbs at several Little Saigon markets.
Even without going to an Asian market, you can find Vietnamese herbs if you hunt a bit at farmers markets. For example, at the Wednesday and Saturday Santa Monica farmers markets, Coleman Farms offers several kinds of mint, including a variety they call Vietnamese mint.
Bill Coleman and his wife, Delia, sponsored three children from Vietnam and he is very knowledgeable about and interested in Vietnamese herbs. Coleman Farms has cultivated and sold rau ram along with many kinds of Southeast Asian basil for years.
In the mid-1990s they sold three varieties of shiso, but now only offer the green and red shiso, reflecting popular interest in Japanese cooking.
“We used to grow Vietnamese tia to but no one wanted it. I’d grow it again if enough people ask,” Bill said.
He also suggested checking with Hmong farmers who often have zippy lemon basil, which isn’t frequently used in Vietnamese cooking though I like to chop up the fuzzy pale green leaves for spicy Asian slaws and green salads. Hmong farmers are also a great source for gorgeous lemon grass stalks, which you can trim and freeze for cooler months.
When buying plants, try to connect with the vendors for more secrets. For example, I’ve had difficulty with rice paddy herb (rau om). I used to cover the container with a plastic bag to create a tiny greenhouse but eventually scorched the poor plant.
This year when I bought new starter plants, the Viet grower did something remarkable -- he lined the gallon plastic container with a thin produce bag to partially flood the plant and mimic Southeast Asia’s wet growing conditions. His new trick seems to be working.
This year, I have a bumper crop of rice paddy herb and in addition to using it for traditional Vietnamese fare, I have experimented by including it in tabbouleh, quinoa and guacamole. One friend even suggests imbuing mojitos with Vietnamese balm.
When it comes to Vietnamese herbs, there’s a world of possibilities.
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Where to find herb seeds and plants
When searching for seeds online, use the botanical name because there are no English translations for many Vietnamese herbs.
Evergreen Seeds specializes in Asian veggies and herbs. Look for tia to in the shiso section. www.evergreenseeds.com
Kitazawa Seed Co. from Oakland has a small “Vietnamese Herbs” section for culantro and kinh gioi seeds. Hojiso, a Japanese herb, is a perilla similar to tia to. The Thai basil selection is fabulous. www.kitazawaseed.com
Richters Herbs in Canada sells seeds and plants (e.g., rau om and la lot). Use the search function to navigate the site. www.richters.com
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds from Missouri has seeds from all over the world, including Vietnamese balm, culantro and other Asian favorites. www.rareseeds.com
Starter plant sources: In Orange County’s Little Saigon, check with the vendor in the produce section inside the Saigon City Supermarket (15471 Brookhurst St., Westminster). ABC Supermarket (8970 Bolsa Ave., Westminster) usually has starter plants in plastic cups displayed on metal shelving near the produce section. Ben Thanh Market (9172 Bolsa Ave., Westminster) has a plant rack outside the entrance. You can buy bunches of herbs at these and other Little Saigon markets.
Recommended Asian markets: For bunches of fresh herbs, check out Ai Hoa (860 N. Hill St., Los Angeles); Westminster Superstore (15440 Beach Blvd., Westminster) or just about any market in Little Saigon; 99 Ranch market (multiple locations); Shun Fat Supermarket (multiple locations).
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Andrea Nguyen
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Salmon with tomato, dill and garlic soup (canh rieu ca)
Total time: 50 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6
Note: When there are leftovers, I serve the soup over bun rice noodles for a quick lunch.
1 pound salmon fillet, pin bones and skin removed
1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon canola or other neutral oil, divided
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
2/3 pound ripe tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon fish sauce, or to taste
6 cups water
3 lightly packed tablespoons chopped fresh dill, feathery tops only
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
Black pepper
1. Briefly blot the salmon dry with a paper towel before cutting it into 1-inch chunks. In a large nonstick skillet, heat one-half teaspoon oil over medium-high heat. Add the salmon and sear, turning once, until lightly browned, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Do not worry that the fish is not completely cooked; the fish will cook further in the soup. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
2. In a 3- or 4-quart saucepan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato and salt, then cover and simmer until the tomato breaks down, about 4 minutes. Uncover and add the salmon, fish sauce and water. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat and use a ladle to skim and discard any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, so that the ingredients dance in the broth, and cook an additional 15 minutes to develop and concentrate the flavors. If you are not serving the soup right away, remove from heat and cover.
3. Just before serving, return the soup to a simmer. Taste and add extra salt or fish sauce, if desired. Add the dill and garlic and turn off the heat. Ladle into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the pepper. Serve immediately.
Each of 6 servings: 197 calories; 16 grams protein; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 13 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 42 mg. cholesterol; 667 mg. sodium.
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Rice noodle bowl with stir-fried beef (bun thit bo xao)
Total time: 1 hour
Servings: 4 as a 1-dish meal
Basic dipping sauce (nuoc cham)
1/3 cup fresh lime juice (2 to 3 limes)
1 tablespoon unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar (optional)
3 tablespoons sugar
2/3 cup lukewarm water
5 to 6 tablespoons fish sauce, or to taste
2 or 3 Thai or serrano chiles, thinly sliced
1. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, vinegar, sugar and water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Taste and adjust the flavors to balance the sweet and sour as needed.
2. Add the fish sauce, starting with 5 tablespoons and then adding more as your palate dictates, balancing the sour, sweet and salty. How much you use depends on the brand and your own taste. Aim for a light honey or amber color and a bold, forward finish. Keep in mind that this sauce is typically used to dress dishes that include unsalted ingredients such as lettuce and herbs -- ingredients that will need an extra flavor lift. When you’re satisfied, add the chile. (If diners are sensitive to chile heat, serve the chiles on the side.) The sauce may be prepared early in the day and left at room temperature until serving. This makes about 1 1/2 cups dipping sauce.
Crispy caramelized shallot (hanh phi)
1/2 cup thinly sliced shallot, from 1 very large or 2 to 3 smaller shallots
3 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1. To ensure the shallot slices crisp up, you must first remove some excess moisture. Using your fingers, separate the slices into individual layers, depositing them on a paper towel. Gather up the paper towel and gently blot away the moisture.
2. In a 10-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the sliced shallot and fry gently, stirring occasionally to ensure even cooking. After 5 to 6 minutes, when the shallot is fragrant and lightly golden, watch the progress closely, moving the slices frequently by stirring them or swirling the pan. During frying, the shallot slices will soften into a mass and then stiffen as they caramelize and crisp. When most of the slices are a rich golden brown, remove the pan from the heat. The total cooking time should be about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shallot slices to a paper towel-lined plate, spreading them out in a single layer. Discard the fragrant oil or reserve it for other uses.
3. When the shallot slices have cooled, crisped and darkened slightly, transfer them to a small bowl or plate. Left uncovered at room temperature, they will retain their crispiness for a good 8 hours. Even if they no longer rustle when you shake them, they are still tasty.
Noodle bowl and assembly
1 teaspoon cornstarch
3/4 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons light (regular) soy sauce
1 pound flank steak, cut across the grain into strips about 3 inches long and a scant 1/4 inch thick
Leaves from 1/2 small head red or green leaf lettuce, cut crosswise into 1/4 -inch wide ribbons (about 2 packed cups)
1 pickling (Kirby) cucumber or 1/2 small English cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into matchsticks
2 cups bean sprouts (about 1/3 pound)
1/3 cup roughly chopped assorted fresh herbs such as cilantro, mint, red perilla (tia to), Thai basil (hung que) and Vietnamese balm (kinh gioi)
2/3 pound small dried round rice noodles (bun), cooked in boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes, drained and flushed with cold water
3 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil, divided
1 small yellow onion, halved and sliced lengthwise 1/4 -inch thick (aim for a moon-sliver shape and the onion will look really nice)
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup crispy caramelized shallot
1 1/2 cups basic dipping sauce
1. Marinate the beef: In a shallow bowl large enough to accommodate the beef, whisk together the cornstarch, sugar, salt, pepper, fish sauce and soy sauce until thoroughly combined. Add the beef and use chopsticks or your fingers to coat evenly. Set the mixture aside to marinate while you ready the bowls.
2. Make the salad mix: In a large bowl, combine the lettuce, cucumber, bean sprouts and herbs and toss well. Divide the salad among 4 noodle soup-sized bowls and top with a layer of noodles. Set the bowls aside while you stir-fry the beef.
3. To stir-fry a large quantity of meat successfully on a home kitchen stove, it is best to work in batches and then bring them together at the end. In a wok or large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir-fry until slightly soft and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and stir-fry for about 15 seconds, or until aromatic. Transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon.
4. Increase the heat to high and add another tablespoon of oil. Add half of the marinated beef, spreading it out into a single layer. Cook the beef, undisturbed, until it begins to brown, about 1 minute, then flip and stir-fry it for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, or until it is still slightly rare. Transfer to the plate holding the onions and garlic. Repeat with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the second half of the beef. When the second batch is just about done, return the onion and garlic, the first batch of beef and any accumulated juices to the pan. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes to heat through and finish cooking the beef.
5. Remove from the heat and divide evenly among the bowls. Top with the peanuts and shallot. Serve immediately with the sauce for diners to dress and toss their own bowls.
Each of 4 servings: 745 calories; 32 grams protein; 85 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 32 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 48 mg. cholesterol; 1,131 mg. sodium.
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Rice noodles with Chinese chives, shrimp and pork (banh pho xao he)
Total time: 35 minutes, plus soaking time for the noodles
Servings: 2 to 3 as a main course, 4 to 6 as a side
Note: Chinese chives are significantly larger than Western chives, and their flat leaves have a delicate garlic, rather than onion, flavor. In Chinese and Southeast Asian markets, they are typically sold in 1-pound bundles. Vietnamese cooks treat them like a green vegetable, often cooking them with noodles.
1/2 pound medium dried flat rice noodles (banh pho)
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, divided
3 tablespoons fish sauce
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped into pea-sized pieces
1/3 pound ground pork, coarsely chopped to loosen
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 pound Chinese chives, bottom 1/2 inch trimmed and cut into 3-inch lengths
2 or 3 limes, quartered
1. Place the noodles in a bowl and cover with hot tap water. Let them soak until they are pliable and opaque, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and use kitchen scissors to cut them into 3- to 4-inch lengths.
2. To make the flavoring sauce, in a small bowl combine 1 1/4 teaspoons sugar, the fish sauce and water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Set aside.
3. In a wok or large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry just until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add the shrimp and pork and stir briefly to break up the meat. Sprinkle in the salt and remaining one-fourth teaspoon sugar. Keep stirring until the shrimp and pork have turned opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Chinese chives. Because there is so much food in the pan now, use 2 cooking utensils to stir and toss the ingredients, ensuring even exposure to the heat. (Think of tossing a big salad.)
4. When the chives have collapsed by one-third of their original volume, after about 3 minutes, add the noodles and combine well. When all of the ingredients are well combined, give the flavoring sauce a stir and pour over the mixture. Continue stirring and tossing 2 to 3 minutes longer, or until the noodles and chives are soft and cooked.
5. Remove from the heat, squeeze 4 lime wedges (1 lime) over the noodles, and mix well to distribute the flavors. Transfer to a serving plate and serve immediately with the remaining lime wedges.
Each of 3 servings: 604 calories; 27 grams protein; 77 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 22 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 148 mg. cholesterol; 1,753 mg. sodium.