A weekend in the original desert oasis is as beautiful as ever, and spring is the perfect time to head over.
As soon as the forest of white windmills straddling I-10 looms into view, it feels like your Palm Springs weekender has really begun. Friday traffic from L.A. fades into memory as you arch right onto the 111 and … instant oasis! Suddenly, the San Jacinto Mountains loom larger to your right as the towering turbines to the left wave you in. Though still a few miles from Palm Springs proper, you’re already exhaling.
VINTAGE MODERNISM
Palm Springs is one of a shrinking number of cities with a singular aesthetic, thanks largely to its distinctive Desert Modernist architecture. This local mid-century style spawned structures that exist in rather than on their rocky surrounds, optimizing stunning scenery and indoor/outdoor lifestyles with expansive glass and unobtrusive contours.
Entering from L.A., a prime example is unmissable on Palm Canyon Drive: the futuristic Palm Springs Visitor Center. Shaded by a wedge-shaped canopy echoing the mountaintop silhouettes beyond, this mid-1960s Jetsons-y gem sets the tone for countless living examples of both domestic and commercial designs channeling Palm Springs’ glamorous Rat Pack-era past. Downtown alone boasts the elegant mid-century Chase Bank, the lava rock-encrusted Palm Springs Art Museum and the eccentric façade of the Hugh Kaptur-designed Musicland Hotel.
A gentle stroll around the manicured Historic Tennis Club Neighborhood, located between the downtown strip and the mountain face, reveals dozens of inspiring modernist homes and boutique hotels, including the designated-historic 1947 Del Marcos Hotel. And if you fancy taking a little Palm Springs home with you, the city is speckled with stores specializing in mid-century décor and furniture, vintage and repro. Browse the very welcoming Boomerang for Modern, or try ModernWay, which includes a listening room for high-end throwback audio.
SPA CITY, CA
Long recognized as California’s “spa city,” Palm Springs elevates its innately relaxing qualities with world-class spa resorts and day spas. The Agua Caliente Hot Mineral Spring is where America’s original desert destination began with a modest bathhouse in 1889. Today this historic downtown site houses The Spa at Séc-he. Owned by the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians who’ve inhabited the area for millennia, this 73,000-square-foot escape features an array of both innovative and time-honored treatments, including bathing in ancient 105-degree water emerging from aquifers deep beneath.
Epitomizing the evolution of Palm Springs spas over recent years, Palm Springs Yacht Club at the opulent Parker Palm Springs resort hotel is an immaculate monument to pampering and self-indulgence. All treatments here, from wraps and facials to reflexology and massage, are customized to guests’ individual desires. If a quick massage better fits your weekend schedule, recharge at one of Palm Springs’ myriad storefront day spas such as Raphael’s Spa, catty-corner from the Hyatt Hotel on the main drag, or Studio M, a full-service salon and day spa near the vivacious Saguaro Palm Springs hotel east of downtown.
HIKES & SITES
Perhaps at the other end of the relaxation scale, though therapeutic in their own way, is the web of diverse hiking trails around and above Palm Springs. Best tackled in the cooler months when snowmelt feeds photogenic watercourses, these sojourns reveal unexpected local landscapes and incredible views.
With its super-convenient trailhead near Palm Springs Art Museum, the 1.5-mile out-and-back Museum Trail is a bracing thigh burner on a rocky, exposed and mostly steep path winding above Tennis Club. Bring a broad-brimmed hat and plenty of water to enjoy a wide-angle Palm Springs panorama with minimal time commitment.
Head back to the aforementioned Visitor Center and head towards the mountains on Tramway Road to experience Palm Springs Aerial Tramway – a rotating, must-do 2.5-mile marvel in itself – and 50 miles of mostly easy hiking trails at the top. Savor a pristine wilderness and staggering vistas of the desert floor 8,500 feet below and San Jacinto Peak above. For immersion in a very different side of Palm Springs just five miles from downtown, Murray Canyon Trail meanders 3.7 miles amidst seasonal streams and waterfalls partially shaded by shaggy palm trees – sandals or water shoes recommended!
DESERT DINING
If you’ve worked up an appetite and thirst on the trails, Palm Springs has eateries for all tastes and budgets. On the corner of Palm Canyon Drive and Arenas Avenue, Kaiser Grille keeps the whole family happy with prime steaks, wood-fired pizza, seafood and pasta yet is sufficiently intimate for couples with its tasteful lighting and wraparound patio. Owned by an Austrian chef, Johannes is known for pricey, exquisite European cuisine and impeccable service well suited to a celebratory Palm Springs weekend.
Tucked against the mountains in a corner of Tennis Club, the four-star French/Pacific Rim-accented American fare at Spencer’s Restaurant includes a famed Sunday brunch (8 a.m.-2:30 p.m.) featuring six spectacular varieties of Eggs Benedict. Spencer’s airy, foliage-festooned dining room and hypnotic soundtrack of ball against racquet from adjacent tennis courts creates a fitting farewell to your rejuvenating Palm Springs weekend and boost back into reality.
-Paul Rogers