Blue Velvet

Loup de mer comes with an enticing dice of potatoes and fresh clams and a thatch of fried leeks on top.  (Gina Ferazzi / LAT)

“Almost a sundae” features a smear of brûléed marshmallow “fondue” highlighting a bar of milk chocolate parfait, with a tall glass of frothy bitter-almond foam, and espresso ice cream alongside.  (Gina Ferazzi / LAT)

Blue Velvet’s hamachi.  (Gina Ferazzi / LAT)

At the main dining room’s entrance, an oval cutout offers a peek at the warm lighting and shimmer of the turquoise pool.  (Gina Ferazzi / LAT)