Jonathan Gold reviews Button Mash

Chef Nguyen Tran at Button Mash.

Ginger wings with pickled mustard greens at Button Mash.   (Ivan Kashinsky / For The Times )

Mason Hankins, 26, and Roxy Lange, 30, play pinball on a date at Button Mash, a restaurant on Sunset Blvd.   (Ivan Kashinsky / For The Times )

Johnny Wilson, 25, plays games at Button Mash.

Cheese corn at Button Mash.

Nguyen and Thi Tran, chefs at Button Mash, with their son, Cillian (10 weeks).

A jackfruit sandwich at Button Mash.

Chef Nguyen Tran outside of Button Mash.

Spam fried rice at Button Mash.

Tamarind wings with pickled kohlrabi, left, tangy wings with pickled watermelon rinds, ginger wings with pickled mustard greens at Button Mash.  (Ivan Kashinsky / For The Times)

People eat and drink at dusk at Button Mash.

Johnny Wilson, 25, outside of Button Mash.