Jonathan Gold reviews Manuela

Purple majestic potatoes are served with spiced crème fraîche and dill at Manuela.

The deer burger is served with pimento cheese, charred onion and spicy mayo at Manuela.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

The cornmeal-dusted local rock cod is served with glazed carrots at Manuela.

Charred romanesco is served with mint, chiles and lemon at Manuela.

Grilled carrots are served with a ginger and lime vinaigrette and labneh at Manuela.

Braised English peas are served with green garlic and sesame at Manuela.

Hush puppies are served with molasses butter at Manuela.

The “Redneck” platter has country ham, pickles, pimento cheese, deviled eggs and biscuits at Manuela.

Chef Wes Whitsell pulls a fresh beet from his vegetable and herb garden just steps away from Manuela.

Chef Wes Whitsell describes specials on the menu to his waitstaff during a tasting before doors open at Manuela.  (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Wes Whitsell displays his homemade lime pie in the afternoon light across from the entrance to Manuela.

Manuela restaurant is in the middle of the Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles arts complex.

Floor-to-ceiling windows separate an open bar and patio area at Manuela.

Patrons visit the open bar and patio area at Manuela.