Jonathan Gold reviews Michael’s

Hamachi collar with barley miso, white chocolate and cucumber at Michael’s.

Duck breast with rhubarb chutney, beet raita and arugula at Michael’s.

Dungeness crab chawan mushi with uni, ginger sprout and Japanese sesame at Michael’s in Santa Monica.

Barrel-aged White Manhattan at Michael’s.

Bartender Andrew Wilcox mixes an El Paseo with tequila, mezcal, strawberry liquor, ginger, lime, thyme and strawberry shrub granita at Michael’s.

Chef Miles Thompson cuts lemons in the kitchen at Michael’s.

Chef Miles Thompson, front left, and sous chefs Jeff Lustre, far left, Vanessa Salguero and Rocco Romero at Michael’s.

Hostess Shagha Arianna preps the dining room at Michael’s in Santa Monica.

A table stocked with wines just off the lounge at Michael’s.

Chef Miles Thompson.

Art decorates the men’s room at Michael’s.

Art in the men’s room at Michael’s.