Jonathan Gold reviews 189 by Dominique Ansel

The roasted radicchio at Dominique Ansel’s new restaurant 189 at the Grove comes with fresh honeycomb, endive, hazelnuts, shaved manchego and lemon hazelnut vinaigrette.

Dominique Ansel’s 189 serves a rotisserie baby chicken with black garlic rice stuffing and chilled spicy scallion salad, with a shot of chicken jus.

Spoon-tender cabbage soup at 189 comes with sourdough crouton, pork bone broth, wheat ale and gruyére & fontina.

189’s “The Well” dessert is made of milk granita, wildflower honey, passion fruit gelée and fennel.

189’s “Knife Skills” dessert is apples done five ways: ribbons in lemon thyme, brunoise in Calvados, apple young ginger sorbet wedge, carmelized slices and julienne meringues.

189’s rotisserie baby chicken is served with black garlic rice stuffing, chilled spicy scallion salad and a shot of chicken jus.

At 189, confit duck gizzards come with crispy potato galette, shallots, white balsamic and bibb lettuce.

189 executive chef Hyun Lee squeezes garlic on top of Dirty Potatoes, smashed and crispy with paprika pommery mustard and served with whole-roasted garlic head.

Sweet corn milk bread is dusted with cotija cheese at 189.

Dominique Ansel’s new restaurant 189 takes up a second-floor space that looks out over the Grove’s main street.

Executive Chef Hyun Lee runs the kitchen at 189 by Dominique Ansel at the Grove.

189 executive chef Hyun Lee gets to work at the Grove.

Dominique Ansel’s 189 at the Grove is the chef’s first full-service restaurant.