Jonathan Gold reviews Majordomo

Benton’s smoked ham, spicy lamb, white sturgeon caviar, bounty bowl and chickpeas.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

April 13, 2018 10:30 AM PT

The crab-three-way dish at Majordomo in Los Angeles.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times )

The chuck short rib is the $190 main attraction.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times )

Rice and peas with smoked pork neck.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Inside Majordomo.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Customers gather for drinks at the chef’s bar.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Customers taste wine.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Getting inside Majordomo can be difficult, so congrats to these folks.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Chef David Chang’s Majordomo restaurant in Chinatown.
(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)