Jonathan Gold reviews Nothingness

Action inside the kitchen at the Sichuan restaurant Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

Sept. 28, 2017 5:40 PM PT

Gold review of Nothingness restaurant

Crawfish are cooked at the Sichuan restaurant Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

The exterior of Nothingness in San Gabriel.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

A crawfish dish at Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

Chicken and chile is served at the Sichuan restaurant Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

Crawfish and chicken dishes served at Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

No. 1 fish in chili oil at the Sichuan restaurant Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)

“Ice Jello” dish, at Nothingness.

(Patrick T. Fallon / For The Times)