
Lun F. Chan, shown in the store in 1941 and now almost 88 years old, is the patriarch of the family who invented the famous strawberry cakes. Today the business is run by his son, Youlen Chan and cousin Craig Chan. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The strawberry cakes at the Phoenix Bakery in Chinatown (in the rear refrigerator cases) have made the family-run business famous. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

A grouping of the creamy decorations on the strawberry cakes made at the Phoenix Bakery in Chinatown. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)
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Baker Manuel Diaz applies frosting decorations to the top of one of the the strawberry cakes at the Phoenix Bakery. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

Detail of the creamy decorations and exterior of the strawberry cakes made at the Phoenix Bakery in Chinatown. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The 8-inch diameter versions of the famous Phoenix Strawberry cakes. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

Lun F. Chan developed the recipe for the trademark fresh strawberry-and-whipped-cream cakes at the Phoenix Bakery in Chinatown. Today his son Youlen Chan and nephew Craig Chan run the business. (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)