Photos: Smoke.Oil.Salt on Melrose Avenue

Almejes amb pernil i carxofes, made with Manila clams, serrano ham, artichokes and all i pebre, is one of the dishes at Smoke.Oil.Salt, which serves mainly modernized Catalan dishes. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

July 9, 2014 2:53 PM PT

Smoke.Oil.Salt, a collaboration of chef Perfecto Rocher, Umami Burger czar Adam Fleischman and Hollywood wine geek Stephen Gelber, will please paella lovers.

Paella Night, a Sunday night prix-fixe menu featuring its namesake dish, is a specialty of new Spanish tapas restaurant Smoke.Oil.Salt. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Valencia callos, a honeycomb tripe stew made with Spanish chorizo and chickpeas, is one of the few Valencian dishes on the menu. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Smoke.Oil.Salt on Melrose Avenue is in the space formerly occupied by Angeli Caffe. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Calcots, traditional charred spring onions served with romesco sauce, are similar to what you might have in the Catalan countryside. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Smoke.Oil.Salt chef Perfecto Rocher, a third-generation paella master, formerly worked at the Lazy Ox Canteen and Blvd in the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

The wood-fire grilled quail, with black lentils, chickpeas and goat cheese, has a wild, rustic flavor. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

The wine selection at Smoke.Oil.Salt includes pink Txakolina that is poured at the traditional arm’s length. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Oyster and mussel cocktail is marinated in tiger nut milk. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)

Cassoleta de fideua negra is a squid ink pasta dish made with calamari, clams, mushrooms and honey aioli. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)