Going bold, raw
“Overall, there’s a very happy look to the makeup, with pops of color on the eyes, lips and cheeks,” said Gregory Arlt, director of makeup artistry for MAC Cosmetics, who was backstage leading makeup teams for several shows this season. But some designers opted out of makeup altogether. Moisturizer and an eyelash curler seemed to be the extent of what was used backstage at Alexander Wang and, pictured, Proenza Schouler. This is raw beauty “a simple freshness, focusing on skincare, curled lashes and a groomed brow,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal, who created the looks for those shows. (Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images)
Natural, raw and fresh were some of the words used by hair and makeup artists who created the beauty looks for New York Fashion Week’s spring-summer 2014 collections earlier this month.
Models at the Helmut Lang show are fresh-faced, with pops of rosy color on the cheeks. (Neilson Barnard / Getty Images)
Rosy cheeks are a staple for spring, but this time, as MAC Cosmetics’ Gregory Arlt put it, “we saw lots of corals and pinks, buffed into the cheeks in a doll-like flush.” A Michael Kors model wears the look. (Frazer Harrison / Getty Images for Michael Kors)
At the Altuzzara show, orangey-reds paint the pouts of models walking the runway. (Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images)
Bold lips at the Rag & Bone show. (Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images)
At Prabal Gurung, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury used MAC Cosmetics’ Pro Longwear lip color in What a Blast and blended MAC Pro Orange Lip Mix over the entire lip for a punch of bright orange. (Catwalking / Getty Images)
For a dialed-back approach to a bold lip, plenty of makeup artists opted for shades of coral, generally complemented by bronzed and highlighted skin. This seemed to shine most brightly at the Donna Karan show. (Arun Nevader / Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz F)
To get a flawless glow at Donna Karan, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury blended MAC Cosmetics’ Medium Dark and Deep Mineralize Skin Finish Natural Foundations to create a sheer wash over the cheek area. She added a coral-bronze lip-gloss, also from MAC Cosmetics, called Ray of Sunshine Mineralize Lipglass, to lips for dimension and shine. (Arun Nevader / Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz F)
While flush-cheeked English Roses and ‘70s boho hippies reigned when it came to makeup, the fashion industry’s continuing fascination with the ‘90s inspired the hair. “For the hair look, I was really inspired by a ‘90s raver girl,” fashion designer Prabal Gurung said of the hair that complemented his spring 2014 collection for ICB. Hair stylist Anthony Turner created the long, piecey style by applying L’Oreal Professional Lift Extreme Mousse to models’ damp, center-parted tresses and L’Oreal Professional Volumetry Root Spray to the roots. Strands were then blown dry and the ends scrunched for texture. (Arun Nevader / Getty Images)
At Rodarte, it was a love letter to Los Angeles in the ‘90s, as seen in the street-inspired collection, winged liquid black eyeliner and grungy, side-swept hair. (Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images)
For the Rodarte show, hair stylist Odile Gilbert applied John Frieda Frizz-Ease Hair Serum to models’ wet hair and Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse to the front of hair to create volume. Makeup artist James Kaliardos used Nars products including Via Veneto Larger Than Life Eyeliner, Black Valley Eye Paint, Rue Bonaparte Larger Than Life Eyeliner and Larger Than Life Lengthening mascara to create striking and precise eyes at the Rodarte show. (Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images)
Leave it to Thom Browne to top off his all-white collection with a beauty look that makeup artist Sil Bruinsma said was inspired by “crazy clowns ready for a mental institution.” The ingredients: whiteface, blackened eyes and smeared red lipstick. (Chelsea Lauren / Getty Images)