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Hawaii: Roy Yamaguchi’s new place honors his roots

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One of Hawaii’s most-famous chefs, Roy Yamaguchi, is paying homage to two earlier cooks at his newest restaurant on Kauai.

Eating House 1849 opened Monday at the Shops at Kukuiula in Poipu, on the island’s south shore.

According to local lore, “Eating House” was the name of one of the island’s first restaurants, opened in the mid-1800s by Portuguese immigrant Peter Fernandez. His farm-to-table practices – a necessity in the 19th century – helped shape Yamaguchi’s menu.

Among the offerings:

— Portuguese shrimp turnovers ($11), a “pu pu” — Hawaiian for “small plate” — served with pickled onion and fennel salad.

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— Plantation paella ($28), a hearty stew made with chicken, chorizo, clams, Portuguese sausage and tiger shrimp.

— Corned beef Reuben ($14), a landlubber’s delight made with Gruyére cheese, caramelized onions and cabbage.

While Yamaguchi, an award-winning chef, grew up in Tokyo, visits to his grandparents’ home on Maui nurtured his love of cooking. His “Grandpa Henry” owned and operated a restaurant and tavern in Wailuku.

As in years past, Yamaguchi continues to source food from local farmers, fishermen and ranchers. His Kauai suppliers include Garden Isle Seafood www.gvisfd.com/; Kunana Dairy www.kauaikunanadairy.com/, which features products made from goat’s milk; and Makaweli Ranch https://www.makawelimeatcompany.com/.

Eating House 1849 is open seven days a week from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Info: (808) 742-5000

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