Straddling the Danube

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, Lufthansa, Air France, British, Aer Lingus and Delta offer connecting service (change of plane); restricted round-trip fares begin at $792. Budget carriers SkyEurope (vwww.skyeurope.com) and Wizzair (vwww.wizzair.com) offer low-cost fares to Budapest from various European airports.

Ferihegy Airport is about 10 miles southeast of the city center. Transfers by taxi cost about $25; by minibus, the cost is about $12.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 36 (country code for Hungary), 1 (city code for Budapest) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, 5-6 Roosevelt Ter, 268-6000, www.fourseasons.com, is an Art Nouveau landmark on the Pest side of the Danube with 179 rooms, two restaurants and a top-floor pool. Standard doubles about $400.

Hotel Gellert, 1 Szent Gellert Ter, 889-5500, www.danubiushotels.com, on the Buda side of the city overlooking Liberty Bridge, is renowned for its Art Nouveau spa, including indoor and outdoor swimming pools and thermal baths. Doubles about $180-$300, with breakfast and use of spa.

WHERE TO EAT:

Liszt Ferenc Ter, off Andrassy ut, is a pedestrian artery lined with popular cafes, including the Buena Vista, Karma, Pompeii and Menza.

Gundel, 2 Allatkerti ut, 468-4040, Budapest’s most famous traditional Hungarian restaurant.

Gerbeaud, 7-8 Vorosmarty Ter, 429-9000, is its best-known coffeehouse.

Farger, 18 Zoltan ut, 373-0078, is a contemporary coffeehouse on beautiful Szabadsag Square.

Nador Hungarian Wine Restaurant, 30 Nador u, 302-3086, in a wine cellar near the Parliament, serves excellent traditional fare and has a large selection of Hungarian wines. About $30 per person.

Central Cafe, 9 Karolyi Mihaly u, 266-2110, is a restored literary coffeehouse, first opened in 1887, with a full range of Hun-garian specialties, including hortobagyi palacsinta, meat-filled pancakes generally served as a starter. About $30 per person.

TO LEARN MORE:

Hungarian National Tourist Board, (212) 695-1221, vwww.gotohungary.com.

— Susan Spano