If you go: A guide to Machu Picchu

THE HOTELS

A short stroll from Machu Picchu’s entrance gate, the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge is a pricey-but-worth-it place to stay for those who want to enjoy the early morning magic of the site. The first bus leaves the town of Aguas Calientes at 6:30 a.m. and arrives at the ruins about 20 minutes later, leaving a 50-minute window of solitude for early risers already on the mountaintop. And it’s still fairly quiet until about 10:30, when the tour groups begin to arrive in full force.

Most of the 32 rooms and suites at Sanctuary Lodge are rather bare for the rates charged, but they do have bathrooms, phones, minibars, TV and safe-deposit boxes. The place is undergoing a gradual renovation, and soon every unit should reflect the tasteful, South American ambience of the lobby and restaurant area. Rooms with a view cost $275, plus a hefty 28 percent for Peruvian taxes.

Down at the base of the hill, Aguas Calientes offers a wide selection of hostels and a few upscale hotels. A little exploration on the side streets reveals a typical Andes mountain town just beyond the tourist accommodations and the souvenir stands.

But the bulk of Machu Picchu visitors stay in Cuzco. From there, they take the early morning tourist train and return the same day. Cuzco has a variety of hostels and hotels, including the five-star Monasterio and Libertador. Both buildings date back at least three centuries and present numerous Inca and Spanish architectural and decorative touches. Monasterio rates range from $184 for a single to $294 for a junior suite during high season, April 1 through Nov. 30. Liberator charges from $140 to $245 all year.

GETTING HELP

Knowledgeable stateside travel agents can make all the arrangements and find some of the attractive package deals that often become available. Lima Tours, based in the capital city, dominates the escorted-tour industry in Peru. P.O. Box 4340, Lima, Peru, 011-51-1-424-5110. Several hiking and climbing outfits in the U.S. can guide those who would like to traverse a little of the Andes on foot. Check the ads in outdoor-adventure magazines like Outside and Escape.

Peru currently is regrouping its official government tourist information offices following the 1990s internal warfare and terrorism that caused a severe drop in visits for awhile.

Contact the Peruvian Embassy at 1700 Massachusetts Av. NW, Washington, DC 20036; 202-833-9680; fax 202-659-8124. The embassy maintains a detailed Web site with tourism information at www.peruemb.org.