Mandoline picks

What’s that chef doing? Plucking out a tune when he should be slicing onions?

Oh, hold on. He’s strumming on a mandoline ... so he is slicing onions. The mandoline -- a kitchen gadget with a stationary blade that you “strum” your vegetables over -- is the secret weapon restaurants use for cutting things into absolutely neat, even slices. Or ultra-thin slices for, say, fresh potato chips or an elegant potato gratin.

But the pros don’t have a monopoly on these slick gadgets. There are many mandolines for the home kitchen these days. They come with a wide range of features, differ greatly in terms of safety and convenience -- and what do you make of these prices? From $9.99 to $200!

You need a guide if you’re thinking of buying one. Come along with us -- we’ve checked out a bunch of them.

We tested one ultra-cheap model, five in the $39.95 to $49.95 range and a heavy-duty French mandoline priced well above the $100 mark.

Besides the slicing blade, all had two julienne blades -- except the Benriner and De Buyer, which had three. De Buyer and Oxo had crinkle-cut blades as well. The De Buyer was made entirely of stainless steel; the rest had plastic bodies.

The good news is: They all work. The big differences are ease of use, convenience, safety -- and, of course, price.

To make slices thicker or thinner on a mandoline, you change the distance between the blade and the board on which you “strum” your vegetables: larger distance, thicker slices.

There are two ways of doing this. The traditional one uses a hinged board, which is adjusted mechanically using a screw, lever or knob. Newer models accomplish the same thing by swapping out inserts in the board (the same method they use for putting in julienne cutters).

We prefer the mechanical method because it lets you choose any thickness you like. In practice, however, most cooks need only two or three thicknesses, so the insert system works perfectly well.

A mandoline should be used with great caution. It could scarcely be more dangerous; contrary to all good sense, you’re pushing stuff toward a razor-sharp knife blade with your vulnerable fingertips.

It’s the easiest thing in the world to get seriously cut. One of our Test Kitchen interns always used to cover her fingertips with bandages before using one, just for safety’s sake.

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Keeping fingers safe

That’s why every mandoline manufacturer provides some sort of device to keep your fingers away from the blade. There are two basic types.

One is a small plate with sharp points on it with which you’re supposed to slide the vegetable up and down. Most versions don’t hold vegetables very well, even when an enclosure is provided around them. The exception is the Zyliss, which uses a well-designed enclosure securely mounted on rails; that potato simply has nowhere to go.

The other kind of protector is a sort of plunger with three to six inch-long prongs that sink deep into the vegetable. It holds vegetables quite firmly, though it does mean many of your potato slices will have a tell-tale pattern of little holes in them. (They don’t bother us.)

A mandoline is still dangerous when it’s not in use, because its blade is treacherously exposed. Most models have a retracted safety setting for the blade or provide some other way to keep it from being a menace. The ones that don’t should be kept in their original boxes when not being used.

None of the instruction books says anything about sharpening the blade, which in most models is built into the mandoline and not accessible for sharpening. Oxo, Benriner and De Buyer have insertable blades that could easily be replaced.

Except under really heavy use, the dulling of the blade is not much of an issue. Unlike knives, which quickly grow dull because they’re always coming into contact with chopping boards, mandoline blades (always made of stainless steel) encounter only vegetables, so they stay sharp a good long time.

If you do anticipate using a mandoline heavily, either get the De Buyer or the Oxo, or buy a cheaper model and figure on tossing it when it gets dull.

Taking into account ease of use, safety features and price, our favorite of the mandolines we tested was the Oxo, which has a unique and easy-to-use system for adjusting slice thickness.

Our least favorite was the seriously outclassed Pyrex, though budget considerations could make it a sensible choice for some cooks.

What did we learn? An obvious lesson: By and large, you get what you pay for, but the most expensive may not be the one you like best. (Oh, yeah, and one other thing: Always watch your fingers.)

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Mandolines, through thick and thin

The winner

The Oxo Good Grips Mandoline Slicer has a straight 4 1/4 -inch blade and adjusts slice thickness with an easy turn of a knob.

What’s the difference: Has one of the widest blades, making it easier to slice larger vegetables; it’s replaceable too. Thickness adjuster is marked for one-eighth, one-fourth and three-eighths of an inch; there are also clicks for a dozen thicknesses in between. The same knob brings the julienne cutters into play.

What we thought: Exceptionally convenient because of the knob adjustment and the effective prong-type finger protector. The only mediocre feature is the blade’s storage position -- you could get slightly scraped. A great value, it outperforms models that are twice the price.

How much: $70 at Crate & Barrel, Williams-Sonoma

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Swiss rail

The heavy plastic Zyliss Safety Rail-Guided Mandoline has a V-shaped 4-inch blade and inserts to change slicing thicknesses.

What’s the difference: There’s a reassuring positive-lock system to keep the inserts in place. The effective finger protector slides smoothly in a rail on either side. Has the most thickness options (four) of any insert-type mandoline.

What we thought: An excellent choice -- except for the somewhat flaky safety system, which just amounts to keeping the caddy of inserts over the blade.

How much: $49.95 at Sur la Table

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Safety first

The Borner V-Slicer Pro Mandoline has a V-shaped 3 3/4 -inch blade and an insert for three slicing thicknesses.

What’s the difference: An exceptionally good blade storage position keeps it totally out of mischief. The three slicing thicknesses are achieved by adjusting a single insert plate onto pegs. Julienne blades are stored in a worktop caddy.

What we thought: The finger protector is one of the best. This model is tops in safety and ranks high in convenience too.

How much: $49.95 at Sur la Table

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Semi-pro

The De Buyer La Mandoline is designed for the professional kitchen. It has a straight 4 1/4 -inch blade and a mechanical thickness adjustment with five settings.

What’s the difference: Slicing thickness is adjusted by loosening two screws and working the board back and forth for five regular thicknesses. The blade is replaceable. The rather stiff prong-type finger protector has a chromed handle shaped like a chef’s hat.

What we thought: Though this model impresses with its three julienne cutters, a crinkle cutter and a very wide replaceable blade, it’s not top-flight for convenience or safety.

How much: $145.95 at Surfas; $185 at Williams-Sonoma

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Not too sharp

The MoHa (Moderne Haushaltwaren) “Slizzy” Vegetable Slicer has a diagonal 3 1/8 -inch blade and three slicing thicknesses.

What’s the difference: Thought was given by the designers to little things; there’s a handy brush in the finger protector handle and a compartment under the blade for holding the inserts. But the finger protector is inadequate, and there’s no blade storage position.

What we thought: We’re afraid of this one. We cut ourselves opening the compartment.

How much: $39.95 at Sur la Table

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Lowest profile

The Super Benriner Vegetable Slicer has a diagonal 3 3/4 -inch blade and a mechanical thickness adjustment.

What’s the difference: You swap the three julienne cutters in and out by removing set screws under the device, and you adjust the height of the blade using other screws. The narrowest julienne cutter is really a sort of shredder. No legs; you hold the handle and slice downward. Flat and easy to store.

What we thought: The crude screw adjustment system, flat-type finger protector and lack of a safety position make it no bargain at this price.

How much: $49.95 at Sur La Table

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Rickety, rackety

The Pyrex Accessories Mandoline Slicer has a diagonal 3 1/4 -inch blade and three slicing thicknesses.

What’s the difference: Flimsy and not very stable. Inadequate flat-type finger protector; no blade storage position.

What we thought: Rudimentary but it works. If you slice a lot, you’ll want to move on after a while. Best thing about it: price.

How much: $5.99 at www.amazon.com; $9.99 at Target