2003 Pesquera Tinto Ribera del Duero Crianza

In Ribera del Duero, the wine region in north-central Spain just east of Valladolid, winemakers have a unique food specialty: baby lamb grilled over vine cuttings. The succulent lamb picks up a light haze of smoke and, with a juicy Tempranillo, it’s an irresistible match, which everyone in the Ribera del Duero repeats as often as possible.

Year after year Alejandro Fernandez at Pesquera hits the ball out of the park with his crianza (aged 18 months in oak casks). But his 2003 belies the humble crianza designation; it has the power and depth of a reserva.

Velvety in texture, with round ripe tannins, and concentrated enough to stain your teeth purple, it tastes like liquid plums. The fruit has such sweetness and complexity that it plays well with smoke and char. Pour it for grilled lamb or pork chops, ribs with a dry rub, or a butterflied leg of lamb.

--S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Ribera del Duero

Price: About $27

Style: Lush and velvety

Food it goes with: Grilled lamb or pork chops, ribs with a dry rub, butterflied leg of lamb

Where you find it: Widely available at fine wine shops and retailers