2003 Domaine Courbis Saint-Joseph ‘Les Royes’

Syrah from the northern Rhone is much more than a fruit bomb. At their best, wines made from this ancient grape have an elegance coupled with something wild that makes them absolutely haunting. That’s why great bottles of Hermitage or Cote-Rotie command such breathtaking prices.

But in the hands of vintners Laurent and Dominique Courbis, even a humbler appellation like Saint-Joseph can produce extraordinary wines. Better known for their Cornas, in 2003 the Courbis brothers have emerged with a seamless Saint-Joseph “Les Royes.” Made from grapes grown on the steeply canted, terraced vineyard, this is a Saint-Joseph that’s got everything going for it: gorgeous fruit, solid structure, beguiling flavors and real character. This baby can age, but it’s also drinking beautifully right now. Just in time for barbecue season.

Escort it to the table with beef or pork ribs grilled over mesquite or hardwood charcoal. I like it with a platter of salame and other cured meats, and I’d never say no to steak frites or a beef daube with olives.

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Quick swirl

Region: Northern Rhone

Price: About $30

Style: Concentrated and lush

Food it goes with: Charcuterie, grilled ribs, steak frites, beef daube with olives

Where you find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; Varietals Wine Merchant in San Diego, (619) 224-9463

-- S. Irene Virbila