EATING OUT

Prices are for dinner entrees unless otherwise noted.

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Beverly Hills

ARNIE MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE: Super-aged beef and huge portions at this high-end Chicago-based chain. Specialties: colossal shrimp cocktail, porterhouse, New York strip, filet Diane, double-rib lamb chops, baked potato, cheesecake. Le Meridien Hotel, 435 S. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 246-1501. $24 to $38.

THE BELVEDERE: Modern American cuisine served in an elegant, though stuffy, hotel setting. Specialties: Nantucket bay flounder, Pekin duck breast, foie gras, chamomile tea creme brulee. The Peninsula Beverly Hills, 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 788-2306. $28 to $42.

THEBLVD: Classy but casual dining room and bar with a glitzy crowd. Specialties: pizza, French onion and oxtail soup, grilled lamb chops and sweetbreads, roasted young chicken, veal Milanese. The Regent Beverly Wilshire, 9500 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 275-5200. $23 to $43.

CAFE TALESAI: Thai dishes, spirited in flavor and attractively presented. Specialties: Southern Thai border rib-eye, corn fritters, spicy beef salad, jungle curry. 9198 W. Olympic Blvd. (310) 271-9345. $6 to $24.

CUT: The Regent Beverly Wilshire, 9500 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 275-5200. $32 to $70. See page 31 for more.

ENOTECA DRAGO: Celestino Drago’s Italian wine bar and ristorante offering an array of classics. Specialties: salumi, cheeses, rustic pasta dishes, pizza. 410 N. Canon Drive. (310) 786-8236. $11 to $38.

FOGO DE CHAO: 133 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 289-7755. Fixed price, $52.50 per person. See page 24 for more.

FOUNTAIN COFFEE ROOM: Updated and retro classics popular with hotel guests and neighborhood families. Specialties: milkshakes, malts, tuna melts, double-decker club sandwiches. The Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd. (310) 276-2251. $6 to $16.

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY: 9560 Dayton Way. (310) 276-0615. $15 to $39. See page 31 for more.

GYU-KAKU: Japanese-style Korean barbecue where customers grill their own. Specialties: bibimba (rice cooked and served in a sizzling stone bowl), kalbi (marinated boneless ribs), grilled desserts. 163 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 659-5760. $25 to $35.

KATE MANTILINI: Basic diner fare for a late-night crowd in a dramatic, contemporary setting. Specialties: eggs, oysters, burgers, steaks, meatloaf. 9101 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 278-3699. Also in the San Fernando Valley. $5 to $38.

LA DOLCE VITA: Italian favorites in the friendly, clubby setting of a bygone era. Specialties: scampi, roasted pepper with anchovies, baked clams oreganata, mozzarella marinara, stracciatella soup, fettuccine Alfredo, rigatoni Bolognese, steak Sinatra, broiled sausage with peppers. 9785 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 278-1845. $21 to $39.

LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB: A streamlined American menu where servers have the dining experience down to a science. Specialties: spinning bowl salad, the Lawry cut, Diamond Jim Brady cut, C.C. Brown’s hot fudge sundae, coconut banana cream pie. 100 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 652-2827. $27 to $41.

THE LODGE STEAKHOUSE: A hipper-than-thou scene with a cozy lumberjack theme. Specialties: jumbo crab cake, onion rings, rib-eye, veal chop, banana split, chocolate tasting. 14 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 854-0024. $24 to $47.

MAKO: Asian fusion in a fresh, contemporary space with the feel of an informal bistro. Specialties: crispy oysters, diver scallops and baked uni, lobster with black bean sauce, yuzu tart. 225 S. Beverly Drive. (310) 288-8338. $6 to $23.

MAPLE DRIVE: A modern American menu and live jazz most nights. Specialties: Neapolitan-style pizza, crispy calamari, smoked salmon, five-cheese agnolotti, butternut squash risotto, Colorado rack of lamb, crispy-skin black bass, oven-roasted free-range chicken, apple tart. 345 N. Maple Drive. (310) 274-9800. $22 to $38.

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE: Huge portions and aged prime steaks. Specialties: Kansas City strip, veal porterhouse, fried onions, potatoes au gratin. 246 N. Canon Drive. (310) 888-8782. $27 to $83.

MATSUHISA: Where Nobu Matsuhisa’s admired fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavors was honed. Specialties: sushi, sashimi, squid “pasta,” omakase bar. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 659-9639. $30 to $80.

MR. CHOW: Chinese Hollywood-style at this exclusive-feeling favorite. Specialties: scallion pancake, mixed dumplings, lobster two ways, Peking duck. 344 N. Camden Drive. (310) 278-9911. $25 to $36.

NATE ‘N AL: Jewish deli favorites at a beloved, star-studded neighborhood institution since 1945. Specialties: Nova Scotia salmon, corned beef, Reuben sandwich. 414 N. Beverly Drive. (310) 274-0101. $8 to $17.

SPAGO: 176 N. Canon Drive. (310) 385-0880. $29 to $54. See page 27 for more.

TAGINE: 132 N. Robertson Blvd. (310) 360-7535. $13 to $32. See page 28 for more.

URASAWA: 218 N. Rodeo Drive. (310) 247-8939. $250 per person. See page 32 for more.

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BRENTWOOD

BRENTWOOD RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE:Comfort food tweaked to a California aesthetic, served in what feels like a private club. Specialties: heirloom tomato salad, burrata caprese, prime New York steak, apple pie. 148 S. Barrington Ave. (310) 476-3511. $15 to $65.

THE CITY BAKERY: Brentwood outpost of the well-known New York City bakery. Specialties: pastries, sandwiches. Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St. (310) 656-3040. $2 to $10.

OSTERIA LATINI: An eclectic menu of regional Italian dishes. Specialties: oven-baked branzino, Alaskan halibut, venison. 11712 San Vicente Blvd. (310) 826-9222. $11 to $36.

PALMERI RISTORANTE: Sicilian-inspired Italian cuisine in an elegant space with a wood-burning oven. Specialties: Margherita pizza; fresh tortelli, tagliatelle and agnolotti; sliced rib-eye served on arugula salad. 11650 San Vicente Blvd. (310) 442-8446. $20 to $40.

PECORINO: 11604 San Vicente Blvd. (310) 571-3800. $11 to $39. See page 23 for more.

PIZZICOTTO: Popular trattoria showcasing intriguing, authentic Italian pizzas. Specialties: castagna, a chestnut flour-crust pizza topped with asparagus, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted peppers; whitefish filet with horseradish-pistachio crust. 11758 San Vicente Blvd. (310) 442-7188. $9 to $17.

THE RESTAURANT AT THE GETTY CENTER: California cuisine and a billion-dollar view. Specialties: brunch dishes. 1200 Getty Center Drive. (310) 440-6810. $15 to $34.

THE RESTAURANT AT THE HOTEL BEL-AIR: Haute hotel fare in an effusively romantic environment. Specialties: Bel-Air eggs Benedict, Mediterranean fish soup. 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air. (310) 472-1211. $26 to $48.

SOR TINO RESTAURANT: A haven for those in search of Tuscan-style Italian food. Specialties: burrata with tomato and basil, fried calamari, pizzas Margherita and Napoli, porcini mushroom risotto. 908 S. Barrington Ave. (310) 442-8466. $19 to $26.

TOSCANA: Contemporary Tuscan restaurant serving a well-heeled Westside crowd. Specialties: artichoke salad, risotto with wild mushrooms, bistecca fiorentina (Tuscan-style steak), ricotta cheesecake. 11633 San Vicente Blvd. (310) 820-2448. $13 to $34.

VINCENTI: Seasonal Italian pastas and risotto dishes in an elegant setting. Specialties: Dover sole, New York steak, tagliolini with muggine bottarga, bucatini all’Amatriciana. 11930 San Vicente Blvd. (310) 207-0127. $25 to $39.

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CENTURY CITY

CLEMENTINE: Charming, relaxed cafe and bakery where everything is terrific, even the coffee. Specialties: soups, house-cured gravlax, egg salad, thumbprint cookies, gingersnaps. 1751 Ensley Ave. (310) 552-1080. $8 to $12.

LA CACHETTE: Skillful and subtle French California cuisine at a comfortable restaurant hidden in an alley. Specialties: sardines with potatoes and capers, breast and medallions of duck, salmon with fennel, souffles, apple tart. 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 470-4992. $27 to $35.

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CULVER CITY

BEACON: 3280 Helms Ave. (310) 838-7500. $3 to $18. See page 23 for more.

FORD’S FILLING STATION: Lively--and noisy--gastropub helmed by Ben Ford. Specialties: split pea soup, fried Ipswich clams, smoked trout salad, four cheeses flatbread, crispy flattened chicken, polenta cake, oxtail soup, fish ‘n’ chips, pear buckle. 9531 Culver Blvd. (310) 202-1470. $14 to $26.

INDUSTRY CAFE & JAZZ: Fresh East African dishes and Southern soul food served by a friendly staff, with live music nightly. Specialties: breakfast items, vegetarian platter. 6039 W. Washington Blvd. (310) 202-6633. $7 to $14.50.

JR’S BARBEQUE: Memphis-style ‘cue served at a horseshoe-shaped counter and to a handful of tables. Specialties: barbeque with spicy, smoke-laden sauce; potato salad; baked beans; peach cobbler; 7-Up cake. 3055 S. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 837-6838. $6 to $23.

WILSON: A mix of international flavors and comfort food in a fresh, modern setting. Specialties: open-face sandwiches (roasted chicken, caponata, rabbit Sloppy Joe); potato and fig tortelli; chicken ravioli. 8631 Washington Blvd. (310) 287-2093. $10 to $18.

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DOWNTOWN

ANGELIQUE: Small French cafe in the Fashion District with sidewalk tables and house-made charcuterie. Specialties: baguette sandwiches, frites, green salad, foie gras, lobster casserole. 840 S. Spring St. (213) 623-8698. $12 to $14.

CAFE PINOT: Contemporary French American food in a Modernist building with an elegant patio. Specialties: Bakersfield French onion soup, bluefin tuna tartare, three-mustard rotisserie chicken. 700 W. 5th St. (213) 239-6500. $18 to $30.

CIUDAD: Pan-Latin cooking and a lively bar set the scene. Specialties: Bolivian sweet corn tamales, Peruvian ceviche, paella a la Valenciana, carnitas. 445 S. Figueroa St. (213) 486-5171. $16 to $29.

EL TAURINO: A colorful Mexican eatery featuring meat shredded, sliced and smothered. Specialties: barbacoa estilo Texcoco (oven-steamed lamb), beef ribs, baked pork leg with a chile marinade, tacos. 1104 S. Hoover St. (213) 738-9197. $4 to $8.

EMPRESS PAVILION: Bustling Hong Kong-style restaurant with 175 menu selections and 40 to 60 varieties of dim sum on any given day. Specialties: siu mai (steamed dumplings), pot stickers, barbecued pork. 988 N. Hill St., Suite 201. (213) 617-9898. $10 to $15.

KA GA YA: Cook your own at this traditional Japanese shabu-shabu house in Little Tokyo. Specialties: shabu-shabu with beef or seafood. 418 E. 2nd St. (213) 617-1016. $38 to $120.

LANGER’S DELI: 704 S. Alvarado St. (213) 483-8050. $11 to $20. See page 28 for more.

MAMA’S HOT TAMALES CAFE: From-scratch Oaxacan, Honduran and Salvadoran-style tamales. Specialties: tamales, Latin American coffees. 2124 W. 7th St. (213) 487-7474. $2.25 to $10.

NICK & STEF’S: The steakhouse redefined by Joachim Splichal, but extremely uneven. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, grilled shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, sirloin burger with garlic French fries, dry-aged New York steak, lemon meringue pie. Wells Fargo Center, 330 S. Hope St. (213) 680-0330. $19 to $45.

NOE: Progressive American with Japanese aesthetics, served on an outdoor terrace with a splendid view of skyscrapers and city lights. Specialties: salmon carpaccio, curry-scented beef short ribs. Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza, 251 S. Olive St. (213) 356-4100. $24 to $42.

THE ORIGINAL PANTRY: Since 1924, the American basics done right for a high-turnover crowd. Specialties: Swiss steak, sirloin tips, barbecue spare ribs, New York steak. 877 S. Figueroa St. (213) 972-9279. $7 to $17.

OROCHON RAMEN: Japanese ramen parlor in Little Tokyo where a diverse crowd slurps steaming noodles. Weller Court, 123 S. Onizuka St., Suite 303. (213) 617-1766. $6.45 to $7.

THE PALM RESTAURANT: Steak-and-lobster house in a grand 1920s building one block from Staples Center. Specialties: shrimp cocktail, hearts of palm salad, oysters, jumbo lobster, New York strip steak, lamb chops, New York cheesecake. 1100 S. Flower St. (213) 763-4600. Also in West Hollywood. $17.50 to $42.50.

PATINA: California French served to an energized crowd. Specialties: big-eye tuna tartare, pan-seared Alaskan halibut. Walt Disney Concert Hall, 141 S. Grand Ave. (213) 972-3331. $85 to $120.

PETE’S CAFE & BAR: A popular late-night hangout for loft-dwelling Old Bank District residents seeking New York-style bistro food. Specialties: “mac & cheese” with three white cheeses, blue cheese fries, the Hellman burger. 400 S. Main St. (213) 617-1000. $10 to $19.

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL: Serving up American classics for 98 years at communal tables with sawdust on the floor. Specialties: French dip sandwiches, potato salad, macaroni salad, coconut-cream pie, homemade doughnuts. 1001 N. Alameda St. (213) 628-3781. $4 to $5.

R-23: Good sushi and excellent Japanese cooked dishes. Specialties: crab salad, lobster tempura, steamed mussels, grilled yellowtail, stuffed duck breast. 923 E. 2nd St., Suite 109. (213) 687-7178. $12 to $40.

SOUL FOLKS: Healthy soul food with some interesting twists served by reservation only in a loft space. Specialties: banana pancakes, grits, red beans and rice, corn bread, barbecue tofu, salmon croquettes, catfish, fried chicken, peach cobbler. 613 Imperial St. (323) 839-3380. $40 and up per person.

SUEHIRO: Cool, flavorful buckwheat soba dishes that are perfect for summer. Specialties: any of the soba dishes, teriyaki, tempura, sashimi, udon. 337 E. 1st St. (213) 626-9132. $4.50 to $17.

TAQUERIA VISTA HERMOSA: Tiny stand in the back of the colorful Mercado La Paloma, offering tacos, tortas and complex regional specialties from Michoacan. Specialties: ceviche tostada, shrimp cocktail, caldo de camaron (shrimp soup), fish al mojo de ajo, mojarra frita (fried whole fish). 3655 S. Grand Ave. (213) 741-1251. $8.

TIARA CAFE: New Fashion District spot with a saucy globe-trotting beat from the wildly creative Fred Eric. Specialties: organic salads, Cuban-style smoked duck sandwich, crab “freshwich,” mushroom consomme, apple tarte Tatin. The New Mart building, 127 E. 9th St. (213) 623-3663. $7 to $12.

TRAXX RESTAURANT: White-tablecloth modern American dining with plenty of ambience at Union Station. Specialties: Caesar salad, pork chop, double-chocolate bread pudding. 800 N. Alameda St. (213) 625-1999. $19 to $28.

WATER GRILL: 544 S. Grand Ave. (213) 891-0900. $24 to $49. See page 20 for more.

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EAST AND SOUTH LOS ANGELES

BERTHA’S SOUL FOOD: Home cooking from the oldest soul food joint in town. Specialties: gumbo, oxtails in gravy, fried chicken, smothered steak. 1714 W. Century Blvd. (323) 777-3373. $5 to $12.

BIRRIERIA JALISCO: 31-year-old Mexican restaurant devoted to the perfection of birria de chivo. Specialty: birria (roasted goat meat). 1845 E. 1st St. (323) 262-4552. $5.75 to $8.

LA HUASTECA: Mexican restaurant with ambitious menu of updated regional fare. Specialties: shrimp appetizer, roasted corn and poblano chile soup, beef medallion with huitlacoche sauce. Plaza Mexico, 3150 E. Imperial Highway, Suite 100, Lynwood. (310) 537-8800. $10 to $17.

LA PARILLA: Long a favorite spot for traditional Mexican food. Specialties: molcajete Mary Carmen, grilled seafood, shrimp “sandwich,” guacamole. 2126 Cesar E. Chavez Ave. (323) 262-3434. $7 to $32.

LA SERENATA DE GARIBALDI: Beloved Boyle Heights Mexican seafood restaurant that’s packed for lunch and quiet at dinner. Specialties: quesadillas, sopes, fish tacos, camarones in molcajete sauce, flan. 1842 E. 1st St. (323) 265-2887. Also in Santa Monica and in West Los Angeles as La Serenata Gourmet. $10 to $21.

OTAFUKU: 16525 S. Western Ave., Gardena. (310) 532-9348. $6.50 to $12. See page 34 for more.

PHILLIPS BAR-B-QUE: 4307 Leimert Blvd. (323) 292-7613. 2619 Crenshaw Blvd. (323) 731-4772. 1517 Centinela Ave. (310) 412-7135. See page 28 for more.

RESTAURANT SANTA CECILIA: Tiny and bare mariachi hangout serving fresh, down-home Mexican food. Specialties: costillas (pork ribs in tomato-jalapeno salsa), chicken and red potatoes, beef barbacoa, chile verde. Mariachi Plaza de Los Angeles, 1707 Pleasant Ave. (323) 980-0716. $5.

RINCON TAURINO: 13744 Amar Road, La Puente. (626) 918-5606. See listing under San Fernando Valley.

TERESITAS RESTAURANT: Exceptionally well-prepared Mexican food served to politicos, police and neighborhood folks. Specialties: chicken albondigas soup, pork ribs in chile negro, chilaquiles (fried tortilla chips in chile sauce). 3826 E. 1st St. (323) 266-6045. $6 to $13.

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GLENDALE/EAGLE ROCK/HIGHLAND PARK

CAFE BEAUJOLAIS: Charming and unpretentious neighborhood French restaurant. Specialties: escargots, rack of lamb, creme brulee. 1712 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock. (323) 255-5111. $17 to $19.

CAROUSEL: Serving many variations on hummus and other delicious Mediterranean fare. Specialties: tabbouleh, mutabbal, falafel, kibbeh, fatayer (lengths of puff pastry filled with white cheese). 304 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale. (818) 246-7775. $11 to $23.

CASA BIANCA PIZZA: Popular joint offering some of the best pizza in the city since 1955. 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock. (323) 256-9617. $10.

DAMON’S STEAKHOUSE: Polynesian-themed with a wild tiki bar and jungle vibe. Specialties: beef tenderloin, shrimp cocktail, garlic Parmesan chips, mai tai, chi chi. 317 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale. (818) 507-1510. $15 to $20.

EL HUARACHE AZTECA: As close as it gets to the simple cooking found in homes, market fondas and small restaurants deep in Mexico. Specialties: huaraches (masa served hot off the grill) with meat, onions, cilantro, crema and finely powdered cheese on top; marinated pork; aguas frescas. 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park. (323) 478-9572. $1 to $7.

INDOCHINE VIEN: Vietnamese comfort food. Specialties: pho, mung bean and coconut milk crepes filled with a mix of shrimp and chicken, tofu and onions. 3110 Glendale Blvd., Glendale. (323) 667-9591. $4.50 to $8.50.

MANDALOUN: Superb Lebanese meze, fresh-baked pita and a terrific wine list in an elegant setting. Specialties: baba ghanouj, kibbeh makli (beef dumplings), fatayer, tabbouleh, Meditteranean sea bass. 141 S. Maryland Ave., Glendale. (818) 507-1900. $17 to $30.

MIA SUSHI: Sleek sushi restaurant with quirky menu (plenty of rolls) and a bamboo-fringed front patio. Specialties: fried calamari, sunomono with octopus, tuna tartare, bluefin toro sashimi, firefish, crispy albacore sashimi, double shrimp roll, ivy roll, banana tempura. 4741 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock. (323) 256-2562. $8 to $18.

PORTO’S BAKERY: Cafe with Cuban-style sandwiches and a wide assortment of delicious pastries. Specialties: meat pies, potato balls, guava and cheese pastries, cakes, tarts, soups, salads. 315 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale. Also in the San Fernando Valley. (818) 956-5996. $3 to $6.

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HOLLYWOOD

AMMO: Modern American fare in a recently expanded cafe with a hip, understated ambience. Specialties: baby artichoke pizza, pappardelle with Bolognese sauce, burger with shoestring fries, grilled ham and cheese sandwich, blueberry and caramelized orange crostata, ice cream sandwiches. 1155 N. Highland Ave. (323) 871-2666. $24 to $32.

BELLA CUCINA ITALIANA: Trendy retro-Italian with an offbeat charm and a late-night crowd. Specialties: plate of prosciutto, fried calamari with spicy tomato sauce, baked eggplant, insalata bella, penne arrabiata, ravioli with spinach and ricotta, pounded veal loin, tagliata. 1708 N. Las Palmas Ave. (323) 468-8815. $18 to $28.

CHEEBO: Glowing orange Italian cafe serving a choice of inspired toppings for billowy-crust pizza. Specialties: pizza, house-made ravioli, the Cheebo Chop salad, “Da Bomb” (a souffle that oozes chocolate like lava). 7533 W. Sunset Blvd. (323) 850-7070. $14 to $29.

CITIZEN SMITH: 1600 N. Cahuenga Blvd. (323) 461-5001. $16 to $42. See page 24 for more.

DAKOTA: Historic hotel restaurant-turned-ultra-trendy chophouse. Specialties: Kumamoto oysters, onion rings, steak tartare, Caesar salad made tableside, veal chop, creamed spinach, potato gratin. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd. (323) 769-8888. $28 to $60.

EAT. ON SUNSET: Contemporary American with an industry crowd. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, roasted baby beets salad, seared diver scallops with cauliflower, pork belly, Scottish salmon. 1448 N. Gower St. (323) 461-8800. $21 to $27.

GRIDDLE CAFE: An American breakfast and lunch classic offering coffee French-pressed to order. Specialties: “Bluesberry” flapjacks, poached y papas Benedict, Mom’s French toast. 7916 Sunset Blvd. (323) 874-0377. $6 to $10.

THE HUNGRY CAT: 1535 N. Vine St. (323) 462-2155. $18 to $22. See page 27 for more.

LOU: 724 Vine St. (323) 962-6369. $5 to $14. See page 32 for more.

MAGNOLIA: Updated American diner food in an inviting modernist boite. Specialties: grilled artichoke with citrus aioli, baked macaroni and cheese, fried calamari, Cobb salad, Magnolia burger, rigatoni with Bolognese sauce, marinated skirt steak, ice cream sandwich. 6266 Sunset Blvd. (323) 467-0660. $14 to $30.

MEMPHIS: 6541 Hollywood Blvd. (323) 465-8600. $16 to $36. See page 20 for more.

MOROCCAN ROOM: Social Hollywood, 6525 Sunset Blvd. (323) 462-5222. $24 to $35. See page 27 for more.

MUSSO & FRANK GRILL: Old-school waiters and longtime customers swap stories, and the bar makes the best martini in town. Specialties: double-cut lamb chops, steaks, grilled calf’s liver. 6667 Hollywood Blvd. (323) 467-7788. $15 to $38.

PROVIDENCE: 5955 Melrose Ave. (323) 460-4170. $32 to $38. See page 23 for more.

25 DEGREES: Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd. (323) 785-7244. $9 to $12. See page 28 for more.

XIOMARA: Cuban with a light French or Asian accent and excellent mojitos. Specialties: black bean soup, codfish fritters, rock shrimp tamale, duck ropa vieja, arroz frito, pork hash, mojitos. 6101 Melrose Ave. (323) 461-0601. Also in Pasadena. $16.50 to $32.

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HUNTINGTON PARK/

BELL/DOWNEY

CEBICHE DEL REY: Exotic grills, Peruvian criollo dishes and four ceviches. Specialties: ceviche, papa rellena, chupe de camarones, arroz con mariscos. 7404 Florence Ave., Downey. (562) 806-4033. $5 to $27.

CENADURIA LA CASITA MEXICANA: Modest family-run eatery offering from-scratch, garden-to-table Mexican cooking. Specialties: quesadillas, mole poblano, chicken pipian, pozole, cactus agua fresca (in season). 4030 E. Gage Ave., Bell. (323) 773-1898. $7 to $11.

YA YA’S BURGERS: Choose from 65 varieties of Mexico City-style sandwiches. Specialties: torta alemana (spicy sausage with bacon and American cheese), torta tepiquena (roast pork), torta media vuelta (ham, pork and American cheese), steak sandwich. 3202 E. Gage Ave., Huntington Park. (323) 581-2383. $3 to $9.

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KOREATOWN

EL CHOLO: 1121 S. Western Ave. (323) 734-2773. See listing under Orange County. Also in Santa Monica and Pasadena.

JIN SANG: Mostly Japanese with a Korean accent. Specialties: shabu-shabu (meat or seafood and vegetables dropped into boiling liquid), sukiyaki, kimchi ball (shrimp, tuna, vegetables and kimchi wrapped in cabbage). 2949 W. Olympic Blvd. (213) 387-1600. $13 to $28.

ODAESAN: Incredibly fresh sashimi served in a luxurious setting. Specialties: raw fish salad, al tchigae (cod roe soup), lobster sashimi. 2889 W. Olympic Blvd. (213) 383-9800. $13 to market price.

OPUS BAR & GRILL: Excellent California cuisine and steakhouse fare in a stylish bar and grill next to the Wiltern Theatre. Specialties: pork belly with Granny Smith apples, grilled lobster, chocolate caramel tart. 3760 Wilshire Blvd. (213) 738-1600. $25 to $36.

PAPA CRISTO’S GREEK TOWN TAVERNA: Hard-to-find Greek specialties in a casual deli setting. Specialties: rack of lamb, grilled octopus, grilled Greek sausage, sizzling feta cheese, trio of phyllo dough pastries (spinach, cheese and spicy meat). 2771 W. Pico Blvd. (323) 737-2970. $8 to $13.

SI GOL: Time-honored Korean culinary tradition meets 21st century style. Specialties: pork bulgogi, black pork, Si Gol Special. 480 N. Western Ave. (323) 467-0100. $16 to $17.

SOOT BULL JEEP: Grill-your-own Korean barbeque over real charcoal at tabletop braziers. Specialties: beef, pork, squid and short ribs to grill. 3136 W. 8th St. (213) 387-3865. $16 to $20.

TAYLOR’S STEAK HOUSE: Dark, cozy, and all about the meat for more than 50 years. Specialties: Molly salad, navy bean soup, burger made from steak trimmings, porterhouse steak, cottage fries, tri-tip, bone-in prime rib, London broil, apple pie a la mode. 3361 W. 8th St. (213) 382-8449. Also in La Canada Flintridge. $13 to $26.

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LA CIENEGA/FAIRFAX/LA BREA

AMALFI RISTORANTE: Smart-looking, with a lively bar scene and Tuscan Italian cooking. Specialties: pizzas, seafood salad, tagliolini with shrimp, ravioli al vitello, roasted veal chop. 143 N. La Brea Ave. (323) 938-2504. $14.50 to $27.50.

ANGELI CAFFE: Rustic, regional Italian fare--and Thursday family-style dinners from around the world. Specialties: cacciucco livornese (fish soup), pasta, pizza, roasted half chicken. 7274 Melrose Ave. (323) 936-9086. $8 to $18.

ANGELINI OSTERIA: 7313 Beverly Blvd. (323) 297-0070. $14 to $38. See page 23 for more.

A.O.C.: 8022 W. 3rd St. (323) 653-6359. $7 to $14. See page 24 for more.

BODEGA DE CORDOVA: Spanish wine bar that’s more East Village than Fairfax district. Specialties: traditional tapas such as sausages and ham, cheeses and olives, all imported from Spain. 361 S. Fairfax Ave. (323) 951-1969. Wines, $5 to $9.75 by the glass and $14 to $37 by the bottle; cheeses, $7 to $7.50; cured meats and ham, $7 to $8.

BOULE: 420 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 289-9977. $5 to $10. See page 20 for more.

CAMPANILE: Grillmeister Mark Peel goes it alone--after buying out partner Nancy Silverton--at this beloved Cal Mediterranean in a 1920s building once owned by Charlie Chaplin. Specialties: grilled cheese on Thursdays, grilled prime rib, crisp flattened chicken. 624 S. La Brea Ave. (323) 938-1447. $25 to $40.

CANTER’S: Since 1931, the wee-hours place for deli and bakery classics. Specialties: corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, potato pancakes, matzo ball soup, cheesecake. 419 N. Fairfax Ave. (323) 651-2030. $9 to $12.

CHAMEAU: Smart, contemporary French Moroccan food and a casual, hip vibe. Specialties: duck bestila, homemade couscous, lamb shoulder tagine. 339 N. Fairfax Ave. (323) 951-0039. $18 to $25.

CHAYA BRASSERIE: Japanese dishes with French and Italian accents. Specialties: lobster sushi roll, sauteed foie gras with vanilla-Porto reduction, chicken Dijon, two-way lamb chops, grilled wild salmon, creme brulee, fragrant mint tea. 8741 Alden Drive. (310) 859-8833. Also in Venice as Chaya Venice. $15 to $35.

COBRAS & MATADORS: 7615 Beverly Blvd. (323) 932-6178. See listing under Los Feliz.

GRACE: Ambitious New American dining and a frenetic, young bar scene. Specialties: risotto with pumpkin and sea urchin, tenderloin of wild boar, crab salad, jelly doughnuts. 7360 Beverly Blvd. (323) 934-4400. $23 to $35.

HATFIELD’S: San Francisco chefs Quinn and Karen Hatfield come home to L.A. with a new 50-seat restaurant and seasonal French California menu. Specialties: sweet corn raviolini, charred Japanese octopus, whole roasted wild branzino, squab breast, hanger steak, sugar and spice beignets, blueberry meringue napoleon. 7458 Beverly Blvd. (323) 935-2977. $27 to $32.

JAR: 8225 Beverly Blvd. (323) 655-6566. $17 to $39. See page 31 for more.

JOAN’S ON THIRD: Delicious morning pastries, sandwiches, desserts--and sought-after gourmet ingredients. Specialties: tarragon chicken salad, grilled vegetables Provencal, turkey meatloaf, homemade mini cupcakes. 8350 W. 3rd St. (323) 655-2285. $5 to $13.

KOI: Trendy Japanese with a fireside lounge scene. Specialties: crispy rice with spicy tuna, black cod bronzed with miso, pan-roasted duck. 730 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 659-9449. $14 to $29.

LA TERZA: 8384 W. 3rd St. (323) 782-8384. $18 to $30. See page 24 for more.

L’ORANGERIE: A 28-year-old French classic with a formal, elegant dining room. Specialties: eggs in their shells, escargots, foie gras creme brulee, pan-roasted breast of squab, beef prime rib for two. 903 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 652-9770. $32 to $75.

LOTERIA GRILL: 6333 W. 3rd St., No. 322. (323) 930-2211. $2.35 to $14. See page 28 for more.

LUNA PARK: Eclectic American dishes with French, Italian and Asian influences served to a young, restless and thirsty crowd. Specialties: pork satay, moules frites, baby spinach salad, goat cheese fondue, grilled flatiron steak. 672 S. La Brea Ave. (323) 934-2110. $10.50 to $17.

M CAFE DE CHAYA: 7119 Melrose Ave. (323) 525-0588. $8 to $14. See page 28 for more.

MIMOSA: Authentic, regional French bistro fare. Specialties: leeks vinaigrette, Lyonnaise salad, boeuf bourguignon, frites. 8009 Beverly Blvd. (323) 655-8895. $15.50 to $26.

ORTOLAN: Studied contemporary French cuisine in a youthful setting. Specialties: slate-roasted scallops, crispy langoustines with a shot of minestrone, filet of beef with marrow bone. 8338 W. 3rd St. (323) 653-3300. $31 to $39.

PASTIS: Sweet bistro offering French country food and wine dinners. Specialties: frisee salad with poached egg and lardons, wild escargots prepared with a drop of Pastis, grilled dry-aged rib-eye steak. 8114 Beverly Blvd. (323) 655-8822. $15 to $25.

SONA: Minimalist temple to spontaneous and highly elaborate French cuisine from chef David Myers. Specialties: Maine lobster risotto, Australian sea bass, prime beef tenderloin and short ribs, tasting menus. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 659-7708. $34 to $48.

SUSHI ROKU: 8445 W. 3rd St. (323) 655-6767. See listing under Pasadena. Also in Santa Monica.

TABLE 8: 7661 Melrose Ave. (323) 782-8258. $23 to $30. See page 31 for more.

TART: A sophisticated “rustic” in a classic motel with a country-themed makeover and sprawling outdoor patio. Specialties: chicken-fried steak and eggs, farmer’s burger, crab cakes, cowboy steak with plantain chipotle mash, sage veal chop. Farmer’s Daughter Hotel, 115 S. Fairfax Ave. (323) 937-3930. $21 to $45.

*

LOS FELIZ/SILVER LAKE/

ECHO PARK

ALCOVE: A popular spot to start the day with classic American food and strong coffee. Specialties: pastries, omelets, huevos rancheros, Americana panini, smoked salmon stack (potato pancake with poached eggs, creme fraiche, dill and salmon). 1929 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz. (323) 644-0100. $8 to $10.

BLAIR’S: Lively neighborhood restaurant featuring hearty American fare. Specialties: shrimp cocktail and deviled eggs, crab cakes, pan-roasted salmon, short ribs. 2903 Rowena Ave., Silver Lake. (323) 660-1882. $16 to $32.

CAFE STELLA: With a lovely courtyard, a charming substitute for an airline ticket to Paris. Specialties: charcuterie plate, soupe du jour, steak frites au poivre, pot au chocolat, creme brulee. 3932 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 666-0265. $17 to $34.

CASBAH CAFE: French Mediterranean fare and a riot of marble-topped tables, potted roses and lavender. Specialties: cafe au lait, feta salads, pita sandwiches, baklava. 3900 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 664-7000. $4 to $10.

CLIFF’S EDGE: A secluded spot serving California Italian fare in an astonishing two-level garden. Specialties: brunch dishes, Caesar salad, bruschetta, grilled filet mignon, roasted black cod. 3626 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 666-6116. $15 TO $22.

COBRAS & MATADORS: Tapas served in a warehouse-like space to a young, bohemian crowd. Specialties: Pa amb tomaquet, green lentils, socca cakes, patatas fritas, mojo de ajo prawns, barbecued skirt steak, churros. 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz. (323) 669-3922. Also in La Cienega area. $5 to $17.

GINGERGRASS: Popular neighborhood cafe serving casual Vietnamese fare. Specialties: crispy imperial rolls, Mako’s salad, many varieties of pho. 2396 Glendale Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 644-1600. $10 to $13.

TAIX: Homey, inexpensive country French fare served since 1927. Specialties: escargots, steamed black mussels, roast chicken, bistro steak. 1911 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park. (213) 484-1265. $15 to $25.

TANTRA: Indian small plates and fanciful cocktails in the adjacent lounge. Specialties: tofu and spinach samosa, sweet-and-sour potato salad, catfish masala, chicken xacutti. 3705 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 663-8268. $13 to $18.

TIGEORGES’ CHICKEN: Specializing in moist, smoky chicken cooked Haitian-style over avocado and citrus woods. Specialties: lime-juiced marinated goat, wood-fired chicken. 309 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park. (213) 353-9994. $7 to $15.

VERMONT: Thriving American neighborhood bistro with a loyal following. Specialties: “Michael’s favorite” salad, crab cakes, steamed mussels and clams, pepper steak, braised oxtail (a special), roasted chicken breast, profiteroles. 1714 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz. (323) 661-6163. $15 to $36.

YUCA’S: A family-run Mexican taco shack and neighborhood favorite serving rice-less burritos in ultra-tender tortillas. Specialties: Yucatan-inspired cochinita pibil burritos. 2056 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz. (323) 662-1214. $1.50 to $4.25.

*

MALIBU

GEOFFREY’S: Cliff-side restaurant and bar known more for its gorgeous Pacific view than its California seafood. Specialties: scallops, ahi tartare, mai tais, chocolate and hazelnut tart. 27400 Pacific Coast Highway. (310) 457-1519. $18 to $38.

MOONSHADOWS: Ambitious American menu with Asian and Mediterranean accents. Specialties: spicy ahi tuna tartare, pear salad, miso-glazed escolar, sake-braised short ribs. 20356 Pacific Coast Highway. (310) 456-3010. $19 to $30.

NOBU MALIBU: Trendy Japanese venue from international restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa featuring cooked dishes as well as sashimi and sushi. Specialties: sushi, sashimi, soft-shell crab spring roll, whole grilled fish. 3835 Cross Creek Road. (310) 317-9140. $6 to $32.

SADDLE PEAK LODGE: Rustic hunting lodge offering game and weekend brunch. Specialties: roasted elk tenderloin, buffalo “cooked on the range,” Belgian chocolate creme brulee, banana hucklebread pudding. 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas. (818) 222-3888. $28 to $42.

*

MARINA DEL REY

ANTICA PIZZERIA: Thin-crusted Neapolitan-style pizza artful in its simplicity. Specialties: soy flour pasta, lasagna, Margherita pizza. Villa Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella Ave. (310) 577-8182. $10 to $13.

AUNT KIZZY’S BACK PORCH: Down-home soul food since 1985. Specialties: fried chicken and a range of sides, including collard greens, corn bread dressing, rice and beans, macaroni and cheese and candied yams. Villa Marina Marketplace, 4325 Glencoe Ave. (310) 578-1005. $7.95 to $12.95.

JER-NE: Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey, 4375 Admiralty Way. (310) 574-4333. $26 to $34. See page 24 for more.

UNCLE DARROW’S CAJUN CREOLE EATERY: Try “The Big Easy”--a combination of fried catfish, shrimp and oysters. Specialties: red beans and rice, jambalaya, file gumbo. 2560 S. Lincoln Blvd. (310) 306-4862. $7 to $23.

*

PASADENA

BIG MAMA’S RIB SHACK: Highly flavored Southern cooking served on linen-clad tables: hardly a shack. Specialties: barbecued ribs, fried chicken, jambalaya, chicken Creole, fried catfish. 1453 N. Lake Ave. (626) 797-1792. $7 to $17.

BISTRO 45: A lovely Art Deco building, a fine patio, an encyclopedic wine list and California French cooking. Specialties: diver scallops, grilled Kurobuta pork tenderloin, warm lemon pudding cake. 45 S. Mentor Ave. (626) 795-2478. $18 to $32.

CAFE BIZOU: An expansion of the California French bistro in Sherman Oaks, and a favorite with wine buffs for its $2 corkage fee. Specialties: lobster and salmon ravioli, braised short ribs, profiteroles. 91 N. Raymond Ave. (626) 792-9923. Also in the San Fernando Valley and Santa Monica. $6 to $19.

CELESTINO RISTORANTE: Yet another spinoff of Drago in Santa Monica with a similar menu of familiar Italian dishes. Specialties: eggplant timbale, spaghetti with mixed seafood, striped bass with green lentils, tiramisu. 141 S. Lake Ave. (626) 795-4006. $9 to $26.

THE DINING ROOM: Lovely outdoor terrace and American cuisine from the gifted Craig Strong. Specialties: roasted “Catalan” cod, duck breast and duck leg confit, Meyer lemon mousse with poached pears. The Ritz-Carlton, Huntington Hotel & Spa, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave. (626) 568-3900. $30 to $42.

EL CHOLO: 958 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (626) 441-4353. See listing under Orange County. Also in Koreatown and Santa Monica.

FIREFLY BISTRO: Spirited, slightly bohemian modern American fare served in a tent-party atmosphere with an outdoor dining room. Specialties: pecan-coated catfish, grilled ahi. 1009 El Centro St. (626) 441-2443. $16 to $28.

MAISON AKIRA: Lovely service and graceful French cooking with Japanese flair. Specialties: duck foie gras, miso-marinated Chilean sea bass, warm flourless chocolate cake. 713 E. Green St. (626) 796-9501. $25 to $35.

PARKWAY GRILL: Long-running California restaurant with wood-burning pizza oven and lively bar scene. Specialties: pizza, soups, angel hair pasta, mustard-grilled beef short ribs, fire-grilled lamb chops, napoleon creme brulee. 510 S. Arroyo Parkway. (626) 795-1001. $19 to $31.

THE RAYMOND: A longtime favorite for brunch, served in a restored early 1900s Craftsman. Specialties: grilled pork chops, lobster and shrimp ravioli. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (626) 441-3136. $26 to $32.

SALADANG SONG: Cutting-edge design melded with authentic Thai cooking. Specialties: green papaya salad, ground grilled shrimp in lime dressing, coconut shrimp, pad Thai noodles, green curry with eggplant. 383 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (626) 793-5200. $6 to $20.

SUSHI ROKU: Japanese fusion in a hyper-stylish setting. Specialties: yellowtail sashimi with diced chile, filet mignon-wrapped asparagus, rock shrimp tempura. 33 Miller Alley at One Colorado. (626) 683-3000. Also in La Cienega area and Santa Monica. $13 to $29.

TAYLOR’S STEAK HOUSE: 901 Foothill Blvd., La Canada Flintridge. (818) 790-7668. See listing under Koreatown.

TRATTORIA TRE VENEZIE: A serene restaurant, uncompromising in its devotion to regional northeastern Italian cuisine. Specialties: prosciutto di San Daniele, poppy seed ravioli, house-smoked pork chop. 119 W. Green St. (626) 795-4455. $18 to $32.

XIOMARA: 69 N. Raymond Ave. (626) 796-2520. See listing under Hollywood.

YUJEAN KANG’S: Classic Chinese recipes--and a good dose of experimentation. Specialties: Chinese fresh corn chowder, braised black cod, chicken with silk squash, Northern-style Chinese polenta, sweet red-bean pancake. 67 N. Raymond Ave. (626) 585-0855. $12 to $22.

*

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY

ART’S DELI: The definitive Valley deli with the best corned beef and pastrami on the boulevard. Specialties: corned beef sandwich, “I want it all” chicken soup, short ribs in the pot. 12224 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 762-1221. $10 to $16.

THE BISTRO GARDEN AT COLDWATER: A mix of old-fashioned French bistro and Continental fare served to a loyal cadre of ladies who lunch. Specialties: French onion soup au gratin, Bistro Garden salad, home-cured gravlax, chocolate souffle. 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 501-0202. $17 to $36.

BISTRO PROVENCE: Sweet little neighborhood bistro serving seasonal French classics to an enthusiastic local crowd. Specialties: endive and watercress salad, roast chicken with frites, boeuf bourguignon, cassoulet, twice-cooked pork with choucroute, blue crab in filo, pan-seared ahi tuna with Nicoise salad. 345 N. Pass Ave., Burbank. (818) 840-9050. $14 to $18.

BONEYARD BISTRO: Lively neighborhood rib joint and bistro with a warm, personal vibe. Specialties: whole leaf Caesar salad, Thai spiced crispy calamari, tri-tip, beef ribs, St. Louis spare ribs, fried mac n’ cheese, smoked duck breast, blackened catfish with jambalaya risotto, ginger-hoisin salmon. 13539 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 906-7427. $13 to $30.

BUA SIAM: A tiny space serving rustic Thai fare, including about 35 small dishes. Specialties: Thai-style spaghetti with bay leaf stew, nam prik ong (finely chopped pork with chiles and tomatoes), fried chicken and garlic rice. 12924 Sherman Way, North Hollywood. (818) 765-8395. $6 to $13.

CAFE BIZOU: 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 788-3536. See listing under Pasadena. Also in Santa Monica.

CHADAKA THAI: Thai food for the health-conscious in a surprisingly sophisticated setting. Specialties: spring rolls, curries. 310 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank. (818) 848-8520. $8 to $18.

FIREFLY: One of the hippest venues in the Valley, with a “library” for drinks and an outdoor dining room with cabanas, fireplace and a vaguely Moroccan decor. Specialties: pan-roasted scallops, charcuterie platter, farmhouse cheeses. 11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 762-1833. $20 to $26.

KATE MANTILINI: Warner Center, 5921 Owensmouth Ave., Woodland Hills. (818) 348-1095. See listing under Beverly Hills.

MAX: California Asian dishes cooked with verve and served in a small, congenial room--a hit in the Valley. Specialties: lumpia (shrimp and pork spring rolls), Thai lemon grass-coconut soup, mushroom risotto. 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 784-2915. $18 to $28.

MAXIMILIANS: Sweet little French restaurant with polished food and thoughtful service. Specialties: duck confit with frisee salad, butternut squash ravioli, bluefin tuna tartare, seared Scottish salmon with spaetzle and bacon, veal osso buco, chocolate souffle, buttermilk panna cotta with roasted strawberries. 11330 Weddington St., North Hollywood. (818) 980-6294. $24 to $31.

MINIBAR: The small-plate approach with big flavors, global influences, quirky charm and style to burn. Specialties: yucca bread, duck confit egg rolls, bayou empanada, grilled cactus shrimp, lamb Bombay, wings Marrakech, veal meatballs, marshmallow stew. 3413 Cahuenga Blvd. West, Studio City. (323) 882-6965. $5 to $16.

PANZANELLA: Italian classics served in large portions. Specialties: ribollita soup, fried calamari, bresaola with arugula, marinated swordfish, beef carpaccio. 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 784-4400. $10 to $30.

PINOT BISTRO: Updated French bistro fare from the Patina Group, with cozy banquettes and poetry scrawled on the mirrors. Specialties: endive and watercress salad with Roquefort, slow-roasted chicken with garlic frites, croissant bread pudding. 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 990-0500. $17 to $25.

PORTO’S BAKERY: 3614 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank. (818) 846-9100. See listing under Glendale.

RINCON TAURINO: Central Mexico-style beef, pork and lamb barbecue. Specialties: barbacoa y pancita (cow’s stomach served in broth), marinated leg of pig, carne asada. 14551 Nordhoff St., Panorama City. (818) 893-5927. 8708 Van Nuys Blvd., Panorama City. (818) 892-7444. Also in East Los Angeles. $3 to $9.

ROY’S: Hawaiian fusion chain with an oversize, Las Vegas feel. Specialties: Sichuan-spiced baby back ribs, mahi-mahi in a macadamia crust, misoyaki seared butterfish, coconut ice cream. 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills. (818) 888-4801. Also in Orange County. $19 to $38.

SPARK WOODFIRE GRILL: 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 623-8883. See listing under Orange County. Also in West Los Angeles.

THE STAND: Hot dogs taken to new heights, plus hand-squeezed lemonade and root beer and cream soda on tap. 17000 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (818) 788-2700. $3 to $8.

SUSHI NOZAWA: High-speed Japanese dining from an imperious purist of a chef. Specialties: hamachi (yellowtail), toro, albacore, sweet shrimp, uni, octopus sushi, salmon skin roll, eel roll with cucumber. 11288 Ventura Blvd., Suite C, Studio City. (818) 508-7017. $30 to $50.

TOP THAI: Delicious, rarely seen northern Thai dishes served in a handsome dining room in a less-than-hip ‘hood. Specialties: khow soy (coconut-curry noodle soup), country-style mild pork curries, sai oua (lemongrass-spiced sausage). 7333 Reseda Blvd., Reseda. (818) 705-8902. $6 to $13.

ZEKE’S SMOKEHOUSE: Classic barbeque and American sides such as from-scratch beans and freshly made applesauce. Specialties: baby back ribs, spare ribs, brisket, pulled pork sandwich, hush puppies. 2209 Honolulu Ave., Montrose. (818) 957-7045. Also in West Hollywood. $7 to $20.

*

SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

CHUNG KING RESTAURANT: A hole-in-the-wall with a huge menu of fiery Sichuan cuisine. Specialties: Sichuan wontons doused in ultra-spicy red broth, dried beef slices fried with Sichuan hot peppers (No. 9). 206 S. Garfield Ave., Monterey Park. (626) 280-7430. $6 to $13.

DEERFIELD KITCHEN: A tiny Chinese spot with a $4 lunch menu. Specialties: jing dong meat pie, jing do rou bing (fried flatbread stuffed with minced pork). 130 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park. (626) 284-3867. $4 to $7.

GREEN VILLAGE: Showcasing the sophisticated big-city dishes of Shanghai with simple flavors. Specialties: wu-ti special ribs, pork spare ribs house-style, braised fresh fish, braised minced pork with gluten puffs. San Gabriel Square, 140 W. Valley Blvd., No. 206-207, San Gabriel. (626) 288-5918. $8 to $11.

LAKE SPRING SHANGHAI: One of the best in a city full of wonderful Chinese restaurants. Specialties: dumplings, pork “pump” (pork leg cooked in Chinese plum sauce until it’s so tender you can cut it with a spoon). 219 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park. (626) 280-3571. $10 to $20.

MISSION 261: 261 S. Mission Drive, San Gabriel. (626) 588-1666. $9 to $68. See page 34 for more.

NEW CONCEPT RESTAURANT: Delicious and sometimes radical pan-Chinese cooking, complemented by accommodating, professional service. Specialties: dim sum, Macau roasted pork, rock cod hot pot “Taiwanese style,” steamed rice noodle with beef or spare ribs, live Alaskan king crab, sweet papaya and snow frog fat soup. 700 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park. (626) 282-6800. $9 to $20.

NYC JUMBO SEAFOOD: One of the best--and busiest--Cantonese-style seafood houses in the San Gabriel Valley. Specialties: steamed prawns, lobster, New Zealand king crab, steamed whole fish. 203 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra. (626) 289-4828. $6 to $25.

OCEAN STAR: Huge Hong Kong-style Cantonese seafood and dim sum restaurant that seats 800 or more. Specialties: boiled live shrimp, Dungeness crab with black bean sauce, braised squab, sauteed pea shoots. 145 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park. (626) 308-2128. $8 to market price.

RESTAURANT DEVON: California French served in a converted 1890s carriage house. Specialties: crab cakes, quail stuffed with lamb mousse, mixed mushroom salad, steak in Port reduction. 109 E. Lemon Ave., Monrovia. (626) 305-0013. $15 to $29.

SEA HARBOUR SEAFOOD: A bustling Hong Kong-style seafood restaurant, the U.S. venture of a Chinese chain. Specialties: hot-and-sour seafood soup, egg yolk meat patty, fish maw stew, salt-based chicken, crystal crab, red rock cod. 3939 N. Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead. (626) 288-3939. $8 to $26.

SHIANG GARDEN: Famous for its house-cured Hunan-style ham. Specialties: bean curd, whitefish, black mushrooms and scallions. 111 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park. (626) 458-4508. $7 to $22.

TRIUMPHAL PALACE: Flawlessly executed Chinese dishes. Specialties: salt-and-pepper crab, steamed live prawns, fire-roasted pork belly, pan-fried clams, rice hot pot with Chinese sausage, ox tongue in red wine sauce, lamb chops in honey and pepper, steamed whole rock cod, roast suckling pig. 500 W. Main St., Alhambra. (626) 308-3222. $9 to $32.

*

SANTA MONICA

BOA: Contemporary steakhouse with an inviting bar and a young, urban vibe. Specialties: oysters Rockefeller, Dungeness crab cake, chilled jumbo prawns, the wedge salad, “40 day” dry-aged New York strip, bone-in Kansas City filet mignon, Indonesian-spiced lamb chops. 101 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 899-4466. Also in West Hollywood. $22 to $36.

BORDER GRILL: Serving up south-of-the-border cooking and daily specials that draw on regional Mexican dishes. Specialties: tortilla soup, chicken panuchos, plantain empanadas, ceviches, pescado Veracruzano, carnitas. 1445 4th St. (310) 451-1655. $12 to $32.

BRASS.-CAP: Brasserie on the beach with picture-perfect decor but perplexing execution of American French dishes. Specialties: steak tartare, potato truffle ravioli, artichoke salad, Muscovy duck confit, pommes frites, creamed spinach, crepes suzette. 100 W. Channel Road. (310) 454-4544. $18 to $42.

THE BUFFALO CLUB: Sophisticated American supper club with luxurious leather booths and a magical courtyard. Specialties: spicy buffalo wings, Angus New York steak, crispy Atlantic salmon pepper steak, cornmeal-crusted okra, macaroni with Vermont cheddar. 1520 Olympic Blvd. (310) 450-8600. $23 to $38.

CAFE BIZOU: 2450 Colorado Ave. (310) 582-8203. See listing under Pasadena. Also in the San Fernando Valley.

CAPO: Clubby 16-table restaurant where meats, poultry and seafood are grilled Italian-style in a wood-burning fireplace. Specialties: porcini mushroom soup, tortelli quattro formaggi, New York steak, hot apple tart, crepes in orange sauce. 1810 Ocean Ave. (310) 394-5550. $22 to $52.

CHEZ JAY: Longtime down-to-earth watering hole with an American menu. Specialties: sand dabs, steak au poivre, scampi, La Jolla potato. 1657 Ocean Ave. (310) 395-1741. $17 to market price.

CHEZ MIMI: Simple, nostalgic fare in a charming bohemian setting reminiscent of a French country auberge. Specialties: house pate, chilled cucumber soup, vichyssoise, mushroom salad, poulet Chez Helene, gigot d’agneau, calf’s liver, flourless chocolate cake, tarte Tatin. 246 26th St. (310) 393-0558. $16.50 to $32.50.

CHINOIS ON MAIN: 2709 Main St. (310) 392-9025. $22 to $36. See page 34 for more.

THE COUNTER: Burger palace near the Santa Monica Airport. Specialties: 1/3-, 2/3- or 1-pound burger (beef, chicken, turkey or veggie), warm chocolate chip cookies, shakes, malts, old-fashioned root beer floats. 2901 Ocean Park Blvd. (310) 399-8383. $7 to $12.

DRAGO: Sicilian-born Celestino Drago’s flagship presents his take on contemporary Italian cuisine. Specialties: Wednesday-night family meals at the communal table. 2628 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 828-1585. $35.

EL CHOLO: 1025 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 899-1106. See listing under Orange County. Also in Koreatown and Pasadena.

FATHER’S OFFICE: Popular spot for upscale beers and outstanding bar food. Specialties: tapas (Spanish cheese, olives and cured meats), Office Burger (with bacon, arugula and blue cheese). 1018 Montana Ave. (310) 393-2337. $9.50 to $15.

THE HUMP: Japanese spot at the Santa Monica Airport where the sashimi tastes as if it were just plucked from the ocean. 3221 Donald Douglas Loop South. (310) 313-0977. $5 to $20.

IL RISTORANTE DI GIORGIO BALDI: Modest-looking place near the beach serving Tuscan fare to the glitterati. Specialties: pasta e fagioli, fettuccine with porcini sauce, gnocchi in Gorgonzola sauce, veal cutlet, torta della nonna. 114 W. Channel Road. (310) 573-1660. $12 to $37.

IVY AT THE SHORE: American comfort food in a nautical- and tropical-themed setting. Specialties: corn chowder, pizza, grilled vegetable salad, fried chicken, sundae. 1535 Ocean Ave. (310) 393-3113. $15 to $46.

JIRAFFE: Festive California French restaurant from surfer-chef Rafael Lunetta, a perennial favorite. Monday is bistro night--three courses for $33. Specialties: roasted tomato tart, Dungeness crab salad, wild mushroom and aged Gouda ravioli. 502 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 917-6671. $25 to $35.

JOSIE: Cozy spot with a semi-open kitchen, serving gutsy New American fare. Specialties: grilled cuttlefish, campfire trout, buffalo foie burger and truffle fries. 2424 Pico Blvd. (310) 581-9888. $18 to $32.

LA BOTTE RISTORANTE: Regional Italian fare from the pair behind Venice’s Piccolo. Specialties: raw artichoke and celery salad, grilled polenta with Gorgonzola and portobello mushroom, ravioli with duck and cabbage, roasted veal shank for two, homemade wild boar sausage. 620 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 576-3072. $24 to $60.

LA SERENATA DE GARIBALDI: 1416 4th St. (310) 656-7017. See listing under East Los Angeles. Also in West Los Angeles as La Serenata Gourmet.

THE LOBSTER: Busy, casual waterfront seafood restaurant and open-air bar at the entrance to the Santa Monica Pier. Specialties: lobster cocktail, crab cocktail, crab cakes, Copper River salmon, chocolate bread pudding. 1602 Ocean Ave. (310) 458-9294. $17 to $47.

MELISSE: Ambitious seasonal French-influenced cuisine from hard-working chef Josiah Citrin. Specialties: seared foie gras, cote de boeuf, chef’s tasting menu. 1104 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 395-0881. $30 to $42.

MICHAEL’S: One of the original bastions of California cuisine, offering lovely summer-night garden dining. Specialties: foie gras torchon, sashimi, grilled Mediterranean loup de mer, Sonoma duck breast. 1147 3rd St. (310) 451-0843. $28 to $42.

OCEAN AND VINE: Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Ave. (310) 576-3180. $17 to $35. See page 27 for more.

PACIFIC DINING CAR: Opulent old-fashioned steakhouse serving up prime beef and gracious service. Specialties: onion rings, Maine lobster appletini, shrimp cocktail, cowboy steak, Colorado rack of lamb, chocolate souffle. 2700 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 453-4000. $29 to $49.

SUSHI ROKU: 1401 Ocean Ave. (310) 458-4771. See listing under Pasadena. Also in La Cienega area.

VALENTINO: 3115 Pico Blvd. (310) 829-4313. $55 to $85. See page 32 for more.

VIOLET: Easygoing, appealing California menu priced for everyday. Specialties: baby beets with smoked eel, mac and cheese, whitefish in brown butter, braised beef short ribs. 3221 Pico Blvd. (310) 453-9113. $8 to $19.

WHIST: Serious contemporary American French cuisine that tries to rise above the bar scene at the luxe and trendy Viceroy Hotel. Specialties: soft-shell crabs, black Angus tenderloin, Kobe beef burger. 1819 Ocean Ave. (310) 260-7511. $29 to $38.

WILSHIRE: American restaurant with organic market fare and a magical outdoor bar and garden. Specialties: red squash and Asian pear soup, beet salad with roasted hazelnuts, crispy poached organic egg, duck confit salad, pork chop with creamy polenta, spit-roasted leg or rack of lamb, braised boneless beef short ribs. 2454 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 586-1707. $26 to $36.

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SOUTH BAY

AVENUE: Well-designed neighborhood restaurant with polished, seasonal French American cooking. Specialties: braised Colorado lamb shoulder, monkfish, osso bucco, seared foie gras, hot chocolate cake. 1141 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach. (310) 802-1973. $22 to $32.

BIGGS: 4722 E. 2nd St., Belmont Shore. (562) 434-1313. $8 to $23. See page 24 for more.

CHEZ MELANGE: A wildly eclectic California menu of fresh seafood, pastas and meats. Specialties: Southern fried chicken salad, Chez burger, spicy Cajun meatloaf. Palos Verdes Inn, 1716 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach. (310) 540-1222. $14 to $27.

GINA LEE’S BISTRO: Asian “bistro” melding Korean, Chinese and Japanese cooking with California cuisine. Specialties: crispy wontons, chicken dumplings, whole crispy catfish, duck breast with orange Port sauce, marinated New York steak, lemon souffle. 211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach. (310) 375-4462. $11 to $21.

GYU-KAKU: 24631 Crenshaw Blvd., Torrance. (310) 325-1437. See listing under Beverly Hills. Also in West Los Angeles.

JAY BHARAT: Transporting Indian fare. Specialties: okra curry, fried rice, stuffed puri (deep-fried bread), pettis (crisp fried pastry filled with coconut, raisins, nuts and potatoes), Southern Indian vegetarian plates. 18701 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia. (562) 924-3310. $3 to $9.

LA SOSTA: Italian restaurant and enoteca by the sea. Specialties: cutting board of salumi and cheeses, large selection of wines, tiramisu. 2700 Manhattan Ave., Hermosa Beach. (310) 318-1556. $30 to $40.

NICO’S: Chic, modern bistro on Naples Island serving fine contemporary Continental dishes. Specialties: carpaccio, Maytag salad, rack of lamb, bread pudding. 5760 E. 2nd St., Long Beach. (562) 434-4479. $24 to $35.

PETROS: 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., No. B110, Manhattan Beach. (310) 545-4100. $18 to $36. See page 23 for more.

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VENICE

AXE: Minimal, Zen-style spot serving healthful, seasonal California Mediterranean cuisine made with fresh, organic ingredients. Specialties: flatbreads and spreads, heirloom lettuce salad, Persian bean stew, wild and line-caught fish. 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (310) 664-9787. $18 to $26.

BABY BLUES BBQ: Southern barbecue in a space that looks like a funky art gallery. Specialties: homemade hot sauces, Suicide King with shrimp, smoked chicken sandwich, beer-braised brisket, the Jack sandwich, barbequed shrimp, ribs. 444 Lincoln Blvd. (310) 396-7675. $8 to $25.

BEECHWOOD: 822 Washington Blvd. (310) 448-8884. $16 to $26. See page 28 for more.

CHAYA VENICE: Crowded beach spot with a California Asian menu including sushi and sashimi. Specialties: java chicken salad, wakame seaweed salad, miso-marinated white sea bass, Chaya chicken Dijon. 110 Navy St. (310) 396-1179. Also in La Cienega area as Chaya Brasserie. $18 to $33.

HAL’S BAR & GRILL: Warm service, world-class art, solid California fare and live jazz on Sunday and Monday evenings. Specialties: turkey burger, Caesar salad, warm pear and cranberry bread pudding. 1349 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (310) 396-3105. $18 to $32.

JOE’S: Laid-back neighborhood gathering spot with serious California French cooking. Specialties: poached eggs with artichokes and morel mushrooms and English pea sauce, rosti potato with scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, porcini mushroom ravioli, tandoori crab salad with frisee, Kurobuta pork loin and pork belly. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (310) 399-5811. $23 to $30.

LILLY’S FRENCH CAFE AND WINE BAR: About as French a cafe as you can find in Los Angeles. Specialties: steamed mussels, goat cheese and leek tart, chicken with rosemary. 1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (310) 314-0004. $15 to $25.

PICCOLO RISTORANTE: Minuscule Italian restaurant about a block from Venice Beach serving authentic fare. Specialties: grilled scallops, lamb loin, cassunziei ravioli, tiramisu, cream puffs. 5 Dudley Ave. (310) 314-3222. $15 to $36.

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WEST HOLLYWOOD

BOA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE: Contemporary steakhouse fare and unusual cocktails served to a young, hip crowd. Specialties: prime New York steak, pecan tart. Grafton on Sunset Hotel, 8462 W. Sunset Blvd. (323) 650-8383. Also in Santa Monica. $22 to $40.

BRIDGE: Italian food in splashy digs from the owners of Koi. Specialties: vitello tonnato, sweet roasted peppers stuffed with burrata cheese and arugula pesto, asparagus ravioli with ricotta cheese filling, gnocchi in tomato sauce. 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 659-3535. $24 to $68.

DAN TANA’S: Food is beside the point at this clubby old-school Italian restaurant, where for years diners have wedged themselves in for a taste of the scene. Specialties: pimento and anchovies, mozzarella marinara, Caesar salad, veal scaloppine or chicken Marsala, New York steak. 9071 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 275-9444. $20 to $49.

DOMINICK’S: 8715 Beverly Blvd. (310) 652-2335. $13 to $25. See page 20 for more.

DOUG ARANGO’S: Italian restaurant with a lively scene and excellent wine list. Specialties: pizzas, fresh sardine bruschetta, gnocchi with artichokes and rock shrimp, rack of lamb. 8826 Melrose Ave. (310) 278-3684. $16 to $34.

IL PICCOLINO: Relaxed ambience, like someplace you’d find on the Cote d’Azur. Specialties: bistecca for two, strozzaprete, soft-shell crab, fresh stone crab, wild salmon, Alaskan halibut. 350 N. Robertson Blvd. (310) 659-2220. $16 to $30.

IL SOLE RISTORANTE: Cozy, high-priced Italian spot on the Sunset Strip. Specialties: zuppeta di vongole, burrata with tomatoes, artichoke and arugula salad, penne all’ arrabbiata, spinach and ricotta ravioli. 8741 Sunset Blvd. (310) 657-1182. $24 to $44.

KINARA SPA CAFE: Chic spot in a day spa that serves delicious light meals and teas. Specialties: un-fried fries, salmon and gojiberry salad. 656 N. Robertson Blvd. (310) 657-9188. $7 to $17.

LUCQUES: 8474 Melrose Ave. (323) 655-6277. $25 to $42. See page 23 for more.

MORTONS: A longtime A-list industry haunt serving straightforward contemporary American fare in an airy, loft-like setting. Specialties: shrimp quesadilla, dry-aged steaks, lime-grilled free-range chicken. 8764 Melrose Ave. (310) 276-5205. $24 to $38.

NISHIMURA: Stylish sushi restaurant with a spare, contemporary decor and thoughtful service. Specialties: steamed razor clams, Kumamoto oysters, scallops, thin-sliced octopus, grilled wild freshwater eel, sushi and sashimi. 8684 Melrose Ave. (310) 659-4770. $20 to $40.

NORMAN’S: A warm, inviting dining room with a sophisticated menu that pays tribute to tropical South American and Caribbean cuisine. Specialties: conch chowder in coconut milk, Havana-style pork, yucca-stuffed crispy shrimp, housemade gelatos, sorbets and ice creams. 8570 Sunset Blvd. (310) 657-2400. $27 to $38. See page 42 for more.

THE PALM RESTAURANT: 9001 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 550-8811. See listing under Downtown.

REPUBLIC: Upscale steakhouse menu in a glamorous setting. Specialties: surf ‘n’ turf tartare, grilled vegetables with tofu steak, barbecue plate with pork belly, pulled pork and pork loin. 650 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310) 360-7070. $23 to $42.

TASTE: Cozy place to stop in for a light, affordable supper. Specialties: pizzettas, salad of shaved fennel, avocado and citrus, pommes frites. 8454 Melrose Ave. (323) 852-6888. $14 to $20.

TOWER BAR: Retro hotel lounge and restaurant with mesmerizing views. Specialties: grilled pizza, salmon tartare, potato blini, gnocchi, risotto with green vegetables, grilled Jidori chicken, steak frites, strawberry tart, ice cream sundae. 8358 W. Sunset Blvd. (323) 848-6677. $21 to $38.

ZEKE’S SMOKEHOUSE: 7100 Santa Monica Blvd. (323) 850-9353. See listing under San Fernando Valley.

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WEST LOS ANGELES

THE APPLE PAN: Burgers and pies served to a loyal clientele since 1947. Specialties: steak burger, hickory burger, egg salad sandwich, tuna sandwich, apple pie, banana cream pie. 10801 W. Pico Blvd. (310) 475-3585. $4 to $6.

BOMBAY CAFE: Casual spot serving soulful Indian cooking with a California sensibility. Specialties: samosas, chutney sampler, lamb frankies, Sindhi chicken, shrimp curry, kheer (rice pudding). 12021 W. Pico Blvd. (310) 473-3388. $7 to $18.

CHABUYA TOKYO NOODLE BAR: Stylish branch of a Tokyo ramen chain that touts its use of some organic ingredients. Specialties: noodles in pork or chicken broth, rice bowl embellished with seaweed, scallions and chicken or pork. 2002 Sawtelle Blvd. (310) 473-9834. $7 to $9.

CHAN DARA: Casual Thai eatery. Specialties: satay, Saigon spring rolls, tamarind sauce sprinkled with chopped peanuts and minced onion. 11940 W. Pico Blvd. (310) 479-4461. Also at 310 N. Larchmont Blvd. (323) 467-1052. $10 to $25.

CJ’S CAFE: Soul food and Mexican--breakfast and lunch served all day. Specialties: fajita-style chicken, short ribs, spicy roast pork, carrot juice. 5501 W. Pico Blvd. (323) 936-3216. $3.50 to $8.

GUELAGUETZA: 11127 Palms Blvd. (310) 837-1153. $8 to $12. See page 20 for more.

GYU-KAKU: 10925 W. Pico Blvd. (310) 234-8641. See listing under Beverly Hills. Also in the South Bay.

IL GRANO: 11359 Santa Monica Blvd. (310) 477-7886. $23 to $35. See Page 20 for more.

THE IVY: Best for people-watching and occasional star sightings--with a contemporary American menu. Specialties: corn chowder, crab cakes, grilled vegetable salad. 113 N. Robertson Blvd. (310) 274-8303. $22 to $75.

LA SERENATA GOURMET: Casual Mexican cafe. Specialties: fish tacos, mushroom and poblano pepper quesadillas, shrimp gorditas, shrimp with mojo de ajo sauce. 10924 W. Pico Blvd. (310) 441-9667. See listing under East Los Angeles as La Serenata de Garibaldi. Also in Santa Monica. $13 to $25.

LITERATI II: 12081 WILSHIRE BLVD. (310) 479-3400. $14 TO $34. SEE PAGE 27 FOR MORE.

MORI SUSHI: 11500 W. Pico Blvd. (310) 479-3939. Sushi, $2.25 to $6.50 per piece; omakase, $80 to $150. See page 34 for more.

NOOK: Casual and fun neighborhood bistro serving sensible and delicious American fare. Specialties: mussels with linguica sausage, crispy calamari and wasabi dipping sauce, house lentil vegetable soup, roasted squ