NYFW review: Proenza Schouler’s fall 2009 collection

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NEW YORK -- There was a greatest-hits vibe to many of the collections shown last week in New York as designers stayed in their comfort zones, reiterating what they do best. For Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, that meant tapping back into the youthful, sporty spirit on which their line was founded. No more sculptural Mickey Mouse ear sleeves or costumey bobby hats -- just smart outerwear and cool girl dresses, albeit many of them too wintertime heavy for L.A.

Raglan sleeved peacoats and jackets in heavy charcoal and camel twill with black insets had a collegiate feel, paired with salt ‘n’ pepper tweed walking shorts and low-slung miniskirts. Mini-dresses with contoured panels of quilted forest green, navy, black and burgundy nylon had an outdoorsy feel, some with the bra-top effect that is a signature of the designers. Cable-knit tights and lug-soled boots completed the look.

The final dresses were collages of shredded violet, midnight blue or forest green velvet suspended on sheer black netting creating a sense of beautiful decay.

-- Booth Moore



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