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New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2011: Suno missteps

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Suno designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty picked up on the theme of faded elegance that has been an undercurrent in several collections this week. ‘Grandma floral’ print blouses and skirts, layered under shaggy, hand-knit sweaters, embroidered kimonos and mohair plaid jackets, created a look so eclectic, it could have come out of ‘Grey Gardens.’

No doubt it was an effort to wade into more grown-up territory on the part of the designers, who launched their label in 2008 with the goal of investing in Africa and manufacture most of their garments in Kenya.

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But the collection was missing the sense of fun that has helped distinguish Suno thus far. The color palette (dominated by mustard yellow, gray and blue) and shapeless silhouettes (tunic tops and dresses, and long skirts) even read dowdy at times.

Still, Suno is going places. The designers are launching eyewear with Warby Parker, and launching e-commerce at www.sunony.com.

-- Booth Moore in New York.

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