Milan Fashion Week: Gianfranco Ferre back on track?
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It was the first Gianfranco Ferre show that designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi presented in front of the brand’s new owners, Dubai-based Paris Group. And you wouldn’t have known from the cool, confident collection that Ferre had just been sold out of bankruptcy after a two-year period of financial uncertainty.
The designers drew on the clean architectural silhouettes the house is known for, working in a mostly white, black and silver palette that was a departure from the vibrant color we’ve been seeing on so many runways here.
The look was quietly elegant and rich, with a renewed focus on wearability, starting with sleek coats with slim belts, or curly white fur panels.
Winter white sleeveless sheaths were worked with suede, and pencil skirts came with zippers in back for adjusting the height of a slit. Delicate sheer blouses sliced with strips of silk were paired with cigarette pants.
As day moved into night, things really started to shine. Sleeveless sheaths came with metallic bands crisscrossing the fronts. Gowns were beautiful, too, particularly the one with a wavelike silver lame front and an open back.
With the designers’ future at Ferre most certainly still in doubt, it should be said that this was their best collection yet. The trick is getting shoppers to care.
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-- Booth Moore in Milan
