Object of Desire: Frosted Lime
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If you grew up in the San Gabriel Valley and are of a certain age, your memories of summer probably include a visit or 10 to Twohey’s, on the corner where South Pasadena, San Marino and Alhambra collide, which was the great drive-in in this part of town.
Generations of local kids thronged Twohey’s for bittersweet hot-fudge sundaes as good as anything this side of C.C. Brown’s, for gargantuan onion rings, and for the Little Stinko, which presumably got its name at a time when the presence of raw onions on a burger might be considered risque.
Twohey’s still packs them in, even decades after the magnificent drive-in was torn down and the operation moved into something resembling a suburban savings and loan.
Ironically, the bank to which Twohey’s surrendered much of its lot was itself torn down, and an In-N-Out Burger now occupies the acreage -- it turns out that it was a good place to put a drive-in after all.
But when the days grow hotter, the evenings longer, and the urge to jump into the family car becomes the most important thing in the world, there may be no more powerful magnet than Twohey’s Frosted Lime, a simple concoction of vanilla ice cream, fresh lime juice and a splash of soda water for spritz; barely tart; a chilled milkshake-glassful of pure, gleaming summer, as full of possibilities as a cool slab of the whitest Carrera marble. A Frosted Lime is, it goes without saying, the perfect accompaniment to a Little Stinko.
1224 N. Atlantic Blvd., Alhambra. (626) 284-7387
-- Jonathan Gold