VOLUNTEERISM

Ruth Reichl certainly did a hatchet job on La Chaumiere (“In Retreat From La Chaumiere,” May 19). What I don’t understand is why she returned so many times for “so many mediocre meals.” Does The Times pick up the tab?

I would like to volunteer for such a stressful job as dining in a place where I am insulted with good champagne, port and cognac.

JANET HECKER

Hollywood