GLOBAL : CORRESPONDENTS’ COURSES : Times writers around the world reveal the names of their favoritelittle-known restaurants : BANGKOK

There is Thai food and there is what Thais call “palace” or “royal” food. Bangkok’s Bussaracum Restaurant is a place to go upscale.

Lunch or dinner at the 3-year-old Bussaracum (it is pronounced boot-sah-rah-come , and it means blue topaz) begins with appetizers that herald a sumptuous meal. Try the toong ngern yuang , a spring roll done up like a little peddler’s sack, or the rhoom , diced pork and shrimp wrapped in a net of egg.

For an entree--from a good menu of seafood, curries and meat dishes--favorites include yum miang moo : chicken, prawn, pork, pickled garlic and peanuts in a lemon-flavored sauce, or mee krob : crisp, slightly sweet vermicelli.

Attentive waitresses will warn the farang (foreigner) when a dish will be too pet mahk (spicy) for his taste.

Thai desserts will cool the palate. Recommended at Bussaracum is the bualoy sam see : small pieces of taro and pumpkin in coconut syrup.

It’s a pleasing room, with about 15 tables, some for large parties, plus extra seating upstairs.

Dinner guests are entertained by a soloist playing Thai music on the xylophone-like ranad or the stringed tar kee .

Bussaracum has a full bar but, alas, like most restaurants in Southeast Asia, has yet to master the perfect martini. The restaurant, an easy taxi ride from Bangkok hotels, is open daily for lunch and dinner. A good dinner and drinks for two might cost $22. Make reservations.

Bussaracum Restaurant, 35 Soi Pitpat 2, off Convent Road; telephone 235-8915.