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BEANS

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Times Food Editor

A big pot of beans and cooler weather just seem to go together. Spice beans with chiles or chili powder and serve them with your favorite barbecued ribs. Or simmer them for hours with a brisket in beer. Or combine them with vegetables in a gutsy, stick-to-your-ribs soup that’s guaranteed to satisfy the sturdiest of appetites. But be picky. Choose the right bean for the right dish.

There’s no such thing as a quick dry bean dish . . . unless you open a can. But if it’s easy cooking you’re looking for, beans should be high on your list of choices as a basic ingredient.

Beans frequently are given a truly undeserved bum rap. Maybe they’re just too earthy for today’s ambiance-oriented society, as it’s difficult to design a “food painting” on a plate with a batch of beans. Or maybe they’re overlooked because of their reputation for causing slight digestive problems with some people. Newer preparation methods largely have managed to overcome beans’ tendency to create gas in the digestive tract, however, so maybe it’s time to give old-fashioned bean dishes another try.

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Probably the best reason for including beans in the diet is the nutritional wallop they pack for the price. Dry beans contain a goodly amount of quality vegetable protein. While they lack methionine, one of the amino acids necessary to make complete protein, combining them with a compatible non-meat food that does contain this amino acid, such as corn or rice, will provide the body with a complete meatless protein. Meat or dairy products such as cheese or eggs also are good sources of the missing amino acid.

Beyond the vegetable protein they provide, dry beans also contain a number of essential minerals such as iron, calcium and potassium. They’re a good source of fiber, high in carbohydrate content, low in fat and have no cholesterol. All of which means dry beans should be given serious consideration when it comes to menu planning on the part of those looking for a good low cost nutritional package.

Although it does take time to prepare dry beans from scratch, they still can be a perfect choice for the cook in a hurry. And talk about easy! After all, just how difficult is it to dump a package of beans in a big pot of water?

The problem with most cooks in a rush to get dinner on the table is lack of planning. You need to pick a night you know you’d like to have a bean casserole for dinner and then start your preparation the night before.

When you start your kitchen cleanup after dinner, fill a big kettle with water, add the beans and set them aside to soak overnight. Or if you’d rather, do it in the morning before you go to work and let them sit all day.

The general rule of thumb is that you’ll need about six cups of cold water to one pound of dry beans for this type of soaking. The beans will expand about 2 1/2 times, so be sure the pot is large enough to hold the amount you choose to use.

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A quicker soaking method that has become popular is to use hot water rather than cold and to bring the beans to a boil, let them boil 3 minutes, cover them and set them aside for one hour to steep.

In either case, before continuing with whatever recipe you have chosen, drain and rinse the beans before proceeding. Getting rid of the soaking water will help alleviate possible adverse digestive reaction and it also improves flavor, texture and appearance in the cooked beans, according to dry bean industry sources.

Dry beans and slow cookers with their predictable temperature controls seem made for each other, although it’s almost as easy to let a pot of beans simmer away on the back of the range. You just have to watch the pot on the stove a little more closely. Depending on the type of beans you use and the recipe you want to prepare, the actual cooking time can run anywhere from 1 1/2 hours to four or more hours.

However, most bean dishes are almost better when reheated, so if you can’t spare the time during the day, cook the beans the night before and reheat them at serving time the next day. Most bean casseroles freeze well, too, so consider fixing enough beans at one time to provide you with a standby casserole in the freezer. It’s wonderful to have something like a sturdy beans and brisket combination on tap in the freezer for one of those nights when you’re running late or the weather has turned cold and dank. A quick zap in the microwave will produce a wonderful effortless feast.

The following recipes show the superb versatility of the different varieties of dry beans readily available at your supermarket. MARINATED GARBANZO SALAD

1 pound dry garbanzo beans

2 red peppers

2 green peppers

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup oil

1/2 cup rice vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

1 red onion, thinly sliced

2 stalks celery, sliced

1/2 cup cilantro leaves, minced

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt, pepper

Crisp lettuce

Place garbanzo beans in saucepan with water to cover. Bring to boil. Boil 2 minutes. Turn off heat. Let stand, covered, 1 hour. Drain beans. Return to pot and add fresh water to cover. Cover and cook over medium heat until beans are tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Drain and cool.

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Broil red and green peppers until black. Place inside paper or plastic bag to sweat. Peel and cut into strips. Cool. Place in large bowl and add garbanzo beans, garlic, oil, vinegar, sugar, red onion, celery, cilantro leaves and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and marinate overnight in refrigerator. Drain, if desired, and serve on bed of lettuce. Makes 2 quarts.

BEANS AND BRISKET WITH BEER

2 pounds great northern beans

2 pounds beef brisket

2 tablespoons oil

1 1/2 (14-ounce) bottles catsup

2 (12-ounce) cans beer

2 cloves garlic, minced

12 pearl onions

Salt, pepper

2 teaspoons sugar

Finely chopped parsley

Combine beans with enough water to cover in large saucepan over high heat. Bring to boil. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 1 hour. Drain beans.

Heat slow cooker to high. Brown brisket on both sides in oil in slow cooker. Add beans, catsup, beer and garlic to slow cooker. Add 2 cups hot water or bean liquid, if desired. Set at 200 degrees and slow cook for 4 hours or until beans and meat are tender. Add additional liquid if necessary during cooking. Add pearl onions halfway through cooking. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar.

Slice beef, serve with beans and sprinkle with chopped parsley, if desired. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

NAVY BEANS AND HONEY

2 cups dry navy beans

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1 cup finely chopped onions

1/2 cup sour cream

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons honey

1 cup boiling water

Soak beans in warm water to cover 2 hours. Bring to boil in same water and add ginger. Simmer 1 hour. Add more water to keep beans covered, if needed. Drain. Turn beans into casserole or bean pot. Stir in onions, sour cream, salt, pepper, honey and boiling water. Bake covered at 350 degrees 2 hours. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

RANCH BEANS VEGETARIAN

2 cups dried pinto beans

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 (7-ounce) can green chile salsa

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1 tablespoon molasses

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup crisp bacon bits

Cover beans with hot water. Bring to boil, add baking soda and boil 5 minutes. Drain off water. Add fresh hot water. Add onion, chile salsa, paprika, molasses and salt and pepper to beans. Mix well. Bring to boil and boil 30 minutes. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 2 hours. Add bacon bits. Simmer 30 minutes longer. Makes 8 servings.

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STOVE-TOP BEANS AND SPARERIBS

1 pound dry navy beans

3/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup catsup

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon celery seeds

Salt, pepper

1 (12-ounce) can beer

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons water

3 to 4 pounds lean pork spareribs, cut into 2-rib portions

1 1/2 cups chopped onions

6 black peppercorns

Wash beans, cover with water in large nonmetallic bowl. Let stand overnight. Combine brown sugar, catsup, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, Worcestershire, celery seeds, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper in saucepan. Stir in beer. Heat to boiling. Blend together cornstarch and water until smooth. Stir into sauce. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir until clear and thickened.

Arrange ribs in single layer on broiler tray. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Brush with beer marinade. Broil 10 to 15 minutes or until browned. Turn over. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Brush with more marinade. Reserve remaining marinade to stir into beans. Broil ribs additional 5 to 10 minutes or until browned.

Drain beans and place in large saucepan. Add 2 quarts water, onions, 1 teaspoon salt and peppercorns. Add browned ribs. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium. Simmer 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Stir in reserved marinade. Simmer an additional 30 to 45 minutes, or until beans and ribs are tender. Add a little water, if beans seem a little thick. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

BLACK BEAN AND VEGETABLE SOUP

1 1/2 cups dry black beans or kidney beans

3 cups water

4 slices bacon, diced

3/4 cup diced celery

1 leek, diced

1/3 cup chopped onion

1/3 cup diced peeled carrot

6 cups beef broth

1 ham hock

1/2 cup red wine

1/2 cup tomato puree

1/2 teaspoon oregano

10 peppercorns

3 cloves garlic

3 whole cloves

1 bay leaf

1 cup water

1/2 cup uncooked rice

Place washed beans in large kettle with water. Bring to boil. Boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to stand 1 hour. Drain and set aside.

In another kettle cook bacon until crisp. Add celery, leek, onion and carrot and cook 8 to 10 minutes. Add beans, broth, ham hock, wine, tomato puree and oregano to kettle. Tie peppercorns, garlic, cloves and bay leaf together in cheesecloth or tea ball and add to bean mixture. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 2 1/2 hours.

Add remaining water and rice and continue cooking another 1/2 hour or until beans and rice are tender. Remove spice bag and discard. Remove ham hock. Cut meat into small pieces and return to kettle. Makes 10 servings.

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COUNTRY LIMA BEAN CASSEROLE

1 pound dry lima beans

2 medium onions, sliced

Salt, pepper

4 slices bacon

1 cup sliced mushrooms

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup chili sauce or catsup

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 cup Burgundy wine

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons cold water

1 cup soft bread crumbs

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Soak beans overnight in cold water to cover. Drain. Cover with boiling water. Add onions and cook slowly until beans are tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Drain. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook bacon until crisp. Drain and crumble. Add mushrooms to drippings and saute until tender. Add to beans with bacon and mix well. Combine chicken broth, chili sauce, Worcestershire, sugar and wine. Measure and add enough water to make 2 cups. Blend cornstarch and cold water until smooth and add to broth mixture.

Cook and stir over low heat until thickened and clear. Add to bean mixture and mix well. Turn into 2-quart casserole. Combine crumbs and melted butter and sprinkle on top of casserole. Bake at 400 degrees 30 minutes. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

MIXED BEAN CASSEROLE

1/2 cup dry lima beans

1/2 cup dry red kidney beans

1/2 cup dry pinto beans

Water

Salt

1 tablespoon oil

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1/2 finely chopped green pepper

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 (10 1/2-ounce) can tomato puree

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Dash black pepper

Grated Parmesan cheese

Soak lima, kidney and pinto beans overnight in 1 1/2 cups water and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Or for quick method, add measured amount of water and salt to beans, bring to boil and boil 2 minutes. Cover and let stand 1 hour. Drain.

Add fresh water to cover beans by 1 inch. Add oil. Cook until tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Drain. Melt butter in saucepan and saute onion, green pepper and garlic until tender. Add tomato puree and Worcestershire. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour over beans and stir gently. Turn into 1 1/2-quart casserole. Top with cheese and bake at 350 degrees 25 minutes, or until top is lightly browned. Makes 4 servings.

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BLACKEYE BEAN SALAD

A LA HOPPIN’ JOHN

2 cups hot cooked rice

1 2/3 cups drained, cooked or canned blackeye beans

Red Pepper Dressing

8 ounces sliced hot cooked sausage or cubed ham

1 cup thinly julienne sliced carrots

1/2 cup minced celery

1/4 cup minced onion

Dash salt

Chopped parsley

Marinate hot rice and beans in 1/3 cup Red Pepper Dressing. Cool at room temperature. Add sausage, carrots, celery, onion and salt. Mix gently. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Red Pepper Dressing

1/2 cup oil

1/4 cup vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon crushed oregano

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 bay leaf

Combine oil, vinegar, salt, oregano, black pepper, cayenne and bay leaf. Mix well. Let stand at least 1 hour to blend flavors. Remove bay leaf before using. Makes 2/3 cup dressing.

BLACKEYE HOPPIN’ JOHN

1/2 pound (1 cup) dry blackeye beans

3 cups hot water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

1/2 teaspoon oregano

2 cups chicken stock

1 quart hot cooked rice

Rinse beans in cold water. Place beans in large pan, covering with hot water. Allow beans to soak overnight. For quick method, bring beans and water to boil, allow to boil for 2 minutes, remove from heat and let stand for 1 hour.

Heat olive oil in saucepan. Cook garlic and onion in oil until transparent. Add salt, garlic salt, cayenne, oregano and chicken stock. Drain beans, discarding liquid. Add beans to chicken stock. Cover and cook slowly about 30 minutes or until beans are tender.

For each serving, serve beans in liquid over rice. Allow 1/2 cup beans and 1/4 cup rice for each serving. Makes 3 1/2 cups beans, 6 to 8 servings.

HAMBURGER BEAN POT

2 cups dry navy or great northern beans

4 quarts water

1 (1-pound) can whole tomatoes

2 cups diced celery

2 carrots, diced

2 potatoes, diced

2 medium onions, chopped

1/2 cup rice

4 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

4 beef bouillon cubes

1 pound lean ground beef

Place beans in large kettle. Add water and bring to boil. Boil 2 minutes, remove from heat and let stand 1 hour. Return to heat and cook until beans are almost tender. Add tomatoes, celery, carrots, potatoes, onions, rice, salt, pepper and bouillon cubes. Brown meat in skillet, stirring to keep meat crumbly. Add to bean mixture, cover and simmer 1 hour or until vegetables are tender. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

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GARBANZO BEAN POT

1 pound dry garbanzo or other small beans

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1 green pepper, coarsely chopped

1/2 pound cooked ham, cut in chunks

2 chorizos or Italian sausages, sliced

1 bay leaf

Dash ground oregano

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash black pepper

Soak garbanzo beans overnight in water to cover generously. Drain. Cover with fresh water and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender but not mushy, stirring occasionally.

Heat olive oil in skillet. Saute garlic and onion until tender. Add green pepper, ham and chorizos and cook until lightly browned. Add bay leaf, oregano and Worcestershire. Add garbanzos along with enough liquid to moisten, but mixture should not be soupy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cover and keep warm over very low heat or in 300-degree oven until ready to serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

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