Wild & Winsome : French Designer Christian Lacroix Brings Spring to Newport Beach
Christian Lacroix, the French designer known for walking on the wild side of haute couture, creates for a certain rich woman who is “very modern, very unusual, healthy and a little crazy too.”
Lacroix’s ninth collection for Jean Patou (brought to Newport Beach recently by the Hotel Meridien and the French-American Chamber of Commerce) is inspired by the adventures of his imaginary special lady.
His design process, he explains, often begins with a story unfolding in his mind. And whatever his favorite female may have done to encourage him in the past, this time she’s alone in her home while the rest of Paris goes on vacation. A collector of exquisite art objects, she enters from her garden and journeys from one treasure to another, from her porcelains to her Picassos.
Lacroix’s own works of art reflect the voyage--starting with his “house and garden” navy crepe pantsuit decorated with enormous white organza ruffles and topped with a huge straw hat. Several episodes later, he presents both a ball gown, inspired by 18th-Century porcelain and a hand-painted gown with a Picasso-esque face that covers the bodice while swirls of modern art play across the skirt.
The skirt is detachable and, like a strapless lace-and- organdy bridal gown, it hides a curvaceous, short sheath that is designed for solo flights as well.
Dramatic to the point of appearing unwearable, clothes such as a sweeping navy organza coat, matching blouse and white crepe Bermuda shorts have actually made it into real life. This particular number was purchased by a Patou patron for an evening aboard a yacht.
“We’re very lucky,” Lacroix smiles. “We have daring customers.”
The mild-mannered, 35-year-old designer has matched their daring with a spring collection called everything from eccentric to zany by the international fashion press. But Lacroix actually rates it “more quiet than the ones before.
“I like very simple things, like Zen gardens, so there are simple black dresses. But on the same level, I love very rich, complicated, baroque things. There is also Patou of the ‘30s in the blue and white clothes. And I’m from the South of France, where it’s very sunny and we have lots of Gypsies, so each summer I like very exotic fabrics.”
Despite its more quiet nature, the 61-piece collection is admittedly “a little astonishing, but each time with haute couture we have to do something new, something very in advance and very creative.
“We are lucky because we can do one outfit for one woman only and one special occasion. It’s absolutely the contrary of ready-to-wear. For me, it’s an art and a dream.”
His dream began in 1981 when the chief designer at Patou fell ill and Lacroix was hired just two months before collection time. Known for haute couture, as well as fragrances like Joy and 1000, Patou in those days was “more conservative and preppy.” But causing a stir in the fashion world is not Lacroix’s declared intention. Instead, he is out “to rediscover the strength of the house of Patou of the ‘30s.”
Bringing the new look of Patou to Boston, San Francisco and Newport Beach recently, Lacroix showed his collection as he had in Paris--on the backs of his tall, willowy runway models. And even if Americans weren’t exactly snapping up the garments (Paulette Wisenfeld, who is vice president of marketing for Patou Inc. in New York, reports that “one woman” in San Francisco and one in Boston are potential customers), at least in Southern California they could inhale the sweet smell of success.
Coinciding with the show, Bullocks Wilshire in Newport Beach introduced a special collection of 12 Patou scents created between 1925 and 1964. Called Ma Collection and said to recall the lively spirit of Jean Patou himself, they include Amour Amour, which he introduced in 1925 to celebrate the emancipation of women; Normandie, which he created to commemorate the maiden voyage of the ocean liner, and Vacances, which he launched in 1936 to celebrate the introduction of paid holidays in France.
Although Christian Lacroix’s rich, modern woman might be inclined to stick with Joy at $200 an ounce or 1000 at $250 an ounce, Ma Collection does offer something special: nostalgic favorites for just $150 an ounce.
