Using Chinese Silk for a Smoking Jacket
Question: I have some heavy Chinese silk my father brought from China, and I would like to use it to make a smoking jacket for my husband. I would like to line it in velvet, repeating that fabric on the shawl collar. Alas, I cannot find a pattern. My husband wears a 40 Regular. Can you help?--B.S.
Answer: Today’s smoking jacket descended from the Japanese hapi coat or haori , so in the absence of a smoking-jacket pattern, you might want to consider using your Chinese silk for a Japanese haori, as illustrated here. The shawl collar you seek is a band collar in this version from Pauloa Patterns (Style 3003). You might also check Folkwear Pattern 129 for a similar look. If you can’t find these patterns at your favorite fabric shop, write to Pauloa Hawaii, Box 11254, Honolulu, Hawaii 96807, or Folkwear, Box 3859, San Rafael, Calif. 94912.
Q: I bought a beautiful reversible Chinese jacket made of satin. One side is a floral design combining turquoise with pale pink and pale green. The other side is white. Should I wear it over a dress or with a long skirt or pants? What color?--A.T.
A: Wear it white-side out with black silk pants that stop at the ankles. Repeat the turquoise, the pink or the green from your jacket in a silk camisole. You might also consider wearing panty hose and shoes dyed to match a second color in your jacket.
Q: I recently bought a beautiful white marabou coat at an off-season sale. It’s full length and really gorgeous. I would like to make this coat last as long as possible, but I’m uncertain about how to care for it. So far, it is still in the box it came in. What do you suggest?--R.W.
A: Leaving your marabou in the box is not such a bad idea. Boxes are made of paper and paper breathes. To prevent discoloration, you should fold the coat in acid-free tissue paper. Do not cover it with plastic.
Q: What is the proper way to place a handkerchief in the breast pocket of a man’s suit?--W.M.
A: There are three ways: square-edged (for a formal look), loose-stuffed (best for patterned silk handkerchiefs or so-called pocket squares) and the three- or four-point fold (for cotton hand-rolled handkerchiefs). The square, which is best with cotton hand-rolled handkerchiefs, should not extend more than 1 1/2 inches above the pocket.
