World’s Fare : Los Angeles’ Growing International Population Has Brought a Wealth of Ethnic Markets

Only 10 years ago, a listing of Los Angeles shops specializing in Oriental, Middle Eastern or Latin American food wares would have filled less than a page. Today, waves of immigrants have brought with them products that have changed what we cook and the way that we cook it.

From 1980 to 1985--in Los Angeles County alone--there has been an estimated 11% growth in population among Latino groups and about a 14.7% growth rate among Asiatic and other groups. Couple this ethnic population growth with the increasing popularity of cooking and dining as a social art form among affluent Americans, and you have a cooking scene never before experienced in a single metropolitan area in modern times.

The ethnic markets listed here include only a smattering of those available in Los Angeles. Check the telephone directory for markets in your neighborhood, as well. Most major supermarkets, in fact, are well stocked with ethnic food products. Still, it’s more fun to step into an ethnic grocery store filled with the exotica of a foreign land, and exploring the international possibilities at holiday time will yield great gift ideas and inspirations for your own seasonal feast.

To this categorized listing of ethnic shopping places--including Latin American, Oriental, Middle Eastern and Continental food stores--have been added a few general gourmet food stores that carry some ethnic food products.

LATINO

Grand Central Market, 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 624-2378. This huge market, made up of stalls, is the mecca for fresh, dried, packaged and precooked Mexican ingredients of every type, at very low prices. Exotic fruits ( sapotes ), vegetables (cacti), fresh fish, meats, (everything including lamb’s heads and pig’s feet-- patitas de cerdo ), poultry and fresh Mexican cheeses. Fresh and day-old cakes and breads, tortillas and homemade taco shells . The central switchboard number will refer you to individual stalls.

El Mercado, 3425 East 1st St., Los Angeles (Mexican), (213) 268-3451, is another huge market with colorful stalls featuring fresh,packaged and cooked Mexican food products.

Los Cinco Puntos, 3300 Brooklyn Ave., East Los Angeles, (213) 261-4084, is one of the few strongholds of the handmade corn tortilla. Tortillas are sold daily except Wednesday over the counter from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. On Saturdays and Sundays, customers are limited to two dozen per person.

La Spanola, 2020 Lomita Blvd., Lomita (Spanish), (213) 539-0455, is one of the rare outlets for Spanish sausages ( longaniza ), cured hams ( jamon serrano ) and other meats needed for authentic Spanish cooking such as tapas (appetizers).

Liborio, 864 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles (Cuban / Guatemalan / Salvadoran / South American), (213) 386-1458. Fresh, canned and packaged products from Central and South America. Fresh banana leaves, yucca and plaintains ( platanos ). Tamarind paste, carne seca (dry beef), yerba mate (herb tea) from Brazil. Papa s criollas (small yellow potatoes) and papas secas (dried potatoes) from the Amazon. Fresh cheeses from Guatemala ( sacapa ), Salvador ( petacon ), Honduras ( duro blandito ), Nicaragua ( chontaleno ), and a full range of cheese from Mexico.

Rincon Chileno, 4354 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles (Chilean), (213) 666-6075. Congrio , an eel found in Chilean waters, is flown in weekly to supply the adjacent restaurant, but they will take special orders on request. Canned products from Chile include abalone, soft clams, natural palm syrup and papayas in syrup. Try take-out foods such as freshly prepared cushion-shaped breads ( pan amasado ), Chilean corn tamales ( humitas ) as well as typical Chilean desserts.

Catalina’s Super Market, 1070 N. Western Ave., Los Angeles (Argentine), (213) 461-2535. Specialty foods such as herb tea , sweet-potato paste, quince, fruitcakes, chocolates, hard apple cider, beers and wines and imported cheeses.

Guatemalan Imports, 2214 West 7th St. Los Angeles (Guatemalan / Central American), (213) 487-4340. Central American food products, including everything needed to make Guatemalan tamales and tostadas. There is also a take-out and a restaurant.

Habana Bakery, 2346 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles (Cuban), (213) 389-3359, specializes in authentic Cuban bread and a variety of pastries such as Cuban galletas , capuchinos , and braso hitano ; Salvadoran semitas , Argentine empanadas and Mexican pan dulce .

Stone Bakery Co., 6700 Crenshaw Blvd. Los Angeles (Caribbean). (213) 753-3847. Jamaican sourdough bread, buns, meat pies and ginger cakes.

CHINESE

Check the Yellow Pages for Oriental grocery stores in your area. Most supermarkets also carry basic Oriental foods.

Kwong on Lung, 680 N. Spring St., Los Angeles, (213) 628-1069, has an inventory of hard-to-find Oriental products, such as dried ginseng at about $100 per pound, exotic dried mushrooms and fresh vegetables, fish, meat and poultry.

China Native Products, 970 N. Broadway, Mandarin Plaza, Los Angeles, (213) 485-0038, has an exclusive line of packaged and canned goods from mainland China.

Yee Sing Chong Co. Inc. 966 N. Hill St., Los Angeles, (213) 626-9619, carries fish, meat and deli items plus almond cookies packed by the dozen (even hundreds).

Hong Kong Low, 425 Gin Ling Way, Los Angeles, (213) 628-6217, offers close to 45 varieties hot and cold dim sum, including steamed spareribs, Chinese tamales, baos , egg rolls, beef-curry pie and more.

Golden Dragon, 960 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 626-2039. In the dim sum bakery in back of the restaurant are dozens of freshly made, hot and cold dim sum plus lemon and custard tarts to go.

Golden City Restaurant, 960 N. Hill, Los Angeles, (213) 627-6603, has hot and cold dim sum to go from 30 cents to $1.50 apiece.

Phoenix Bakery, 969 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 628-4642, carries freshly made almond cookies, cereal bars, fancy birthday cakes and other types of pastries.

Superior Poultry & Egg Co., 750 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 628-7645. You pick your own live poultry in this Chinatown establishment. Most of the year you will find pigeon, quail, chicken, capon, goose and, when in season, pheasant, guinea hens and partridge.

New China Emporium, 727 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 617-7284, has a wide variety of packaged food products along with a range of Oriental housewares and clothing from mainland China.

Man Wah Imports, 758 New High St., Los Angeles, (213) 628-7490, carries a good stock of Chinese, Thai and Philippine food products. Fresh meat, fish, poultry and produce also are available.

Obal’s Market, 2090 Santa Fe Ave., Long Beach, (213) 432-2715, is a general Oriental market that carries fresh meats, fish, poultry and items from China, Japan and Vietnam.

Spring Grocers, 747 W. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, (818) 570-0558, carries unusual Oriental dry foods, herbs and teas.

Ten Ren Tea, 726 N. Hill St., Los Angeles, (213) 626-8844; 811 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 626-3888. These educational shops feature more than 60 different kinds of tea, ranging in price from $1 to $80 per pound. You sit at the garden table with a tea master to taste and learn about the tea before you buy. There are jasmine, oolong, green, black, ginseng and herb teas from throughout China and the Orient.

JAPANESE

Most Japanese food stores carry much the same items but also are sources for seafood and meat, the freshness of which is of great concern to the Japanese.

Yaohan, 333 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles, (213) 687-6699. You might think you’re in Tokyo once you’re past the door of this huge Japanese food emporium. There are groceries, fruits, vegetables, seafood and meats, a large take-out and fast-food center, a pickles counter, bakery, tea-cake counter and liquor store, plus just about anything else Japanese.

Enbun Co., 124 Japanese Village Plaza, Los Angeles, (213) 680-3280, is a large market carrying fresh and frozen fish for making sushi, sukiyaki and tempura. Other unusual products: fresh and dried Japanese mushrooms; exotic fruits and vegetables; canned, frozen and deli items, and hundreds of snack foods and tea cakes.

Modern Food Market, 332 East 2nd St., Los Angeles, (213) 680-9595. This streamlined market has one of the city’s most extensive inventories of imported and local fish, meat, fruits and vegetables. The following markets supply much the same products:

Tozai Foods East-West, 1326 Potrero Grande Drive, South San Gabriel, (818) 288-5124.

Safe and Save Market, 2030 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles, (213) 479-3810.

Granada, 1820 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles, (213) 479-0931.

Ebisu Market, 18940 Brookhurst Ave., Fountain Valley, (714) 962-2108.

Hirano’s Japanese Food Market, 22330 Sherman Way, Canoga Park, (818) 704-1459.

Mikawaya, 244 East 1st St., Los Angeles, (213) 628-4935, carries a variety of savory tea cakes, steamed buns, sponge cake beautifully packed in a box, plus a large selection of crackers, biscuits and Japanese candies.

KOREAN

Korean markets are proliferating throughout the area, and most carry many of the same items, including fresh meats and seafood.

Hankook Market, 3121 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 382-6297, carries fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh meat for barbecuing, fish and frozen chicken, canned products such as kimchee , pickles, condiments and noodles.

East-West Market, 3300 West 8th St., Los Angeles. (213) 385-3300. Far East Oriental Market, 7120 Van Nuys Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 781-9385. New Market, 19104 S. Norwalk Blvd., Artesia, (213) 860-2931.

VIETNAMESE

Many Chinese markets carry Vietnamese food products. Similarly, specialty Vietnamese grocery stores are a good source for products needed to prepare Thai, Indonesian and Cambodian dishes. Many Vietnamese food stores carry meat, homemade sausage, pates and French bread (a culinary influence since the days when Vietnam was a French protectorate).

Hong Kong Supermarket, 717 New High St., (213) 617-8661, Los Angeles, carries spring-roll wrappers, fish sauce and chile products as well as fish, meat and poultry, as do the following markets.

Ai Hoa Supermarket, 860 N. Hill St., Los Angeles, (213) 629-8121 and 407 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra (818) 308-3927.

Hoa Fong Market, 22200 Main St., Carson, (213) 513-8031.

Viet Hoa Supermarket, 211 Alpine St., Los Angeles, (213) 624-8636, is one of largest Vietnamese markets, with a full inventory of Vietnamese food products, bakery goods, fresh meat and poultry.

Du Hoa Market, 16427 S. Western Ave., Gardena, (213) 321-2605, carries fresh fish as well as Vietnamese cooking products.

THAI

Bangkok Market, 4757 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 662-9705, is one of the largest suppliers of Thai foods but also carries Indonesian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Laotian and Cambodian specialties. You’ll find a wide selection of spices and seasonings, Thai teas and coffees, plus homemade custard, sausages and prepared foods to take out.

PHILIPPINE

These markets generally carry both imported and domestic products, including fish and meat.

Filipino Market, 2569 Santa Fe Ave., Long Beach, (213) 426-3509, has some food-to-go plus tropical fruit preserves, salted black beans, duck’s eggs and chorizo made daily. They also carry fresh-frozen fish from the Philippines, lumpia wrappers and fresh-frozen young coconut.

Lorenzana Supermarket, 627 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 665-5155; also at 4925 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 660-4493.

The Philippine Food Center, 1131 W. Temple St., Los Angeles, (213) 250-7528.

Phil-Asian Food Mart, 3124 West 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 383-7950, is a discount market carrying fresh and imported foods.

MIDDLE EASTERN/BALKAN

Bezjian’s Middle Eastern/Armenian/Indian Market, 4725 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 663-1503, is jammed with imported goods from the Middle, Near and Far East, including filo dough, Indian flat breads, couscous from North Africa, feta cheese from Bulgaria, olives from Greece, plus Iranian and Armenian homemade breads and pastries. There also is a shelf of specialty cookware from the Middle East and India.

Brashov’s, 1301 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 660-0309, actually is a restaurant--and a colorful one--but there are some takeout items, such as Romanian sausage and baklava made on the premises, as well as a catering service.

C & K Imports, 2771 W. Pico, Los Angeles, (213) 737-2970. Many imported Greek foods and housewares.

International Grocery Store, 4820 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 666-5484, carries Armenian, Greek, Syrian and Balkan fresh meats and imported food products.

Islamic Food Mart, 690 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 383-2583, carries Indian and Middle Eastern food products, and meats cut according to Islamic dietary law.

Al Hilal Market, 3025 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 731-0868, carries meats cut according to Islamic law, as well as Middle Eastern and Indian spices and food products.

ITALIAN

Many Italian delis also cater to the Middle Eastern community.

Sorrento Market, 5518 Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, (213) 391-7654, is one of the most colorful Italian markets in town. It carries imported pasta, arborio (rice), a full line of cold cuts and cheeses, candies, cookies and wines. Sorrento also is one of the few markets selling whole capretti (goat) and baby lamb for barbecuing.

Bay City Import Groceries, 1517 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 395-8279.

Claro’s Italian Market, 1003 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, (818) 288-2026.

Monaco French Italian Imports, 8513 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 654-7414.

Little Joe’s Grocery, 900 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 489-4900, is in a restaurant featuring homey Italian cuisine.

Dario’s, 410 Ord St., Los Angeles, (213) 628-4736; a deli with a few tables.

Dominic’s, 8301 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 654-1214. Fazzi Fancy Foods, 1538 N. Western Ave., (213) 464-1942.

La Puma, 2378 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 662-8900, is pasta factory selling ready-to-cook beef, cheese and vegetable ravioli, manicotti, canneloni and tortellini.

Sarno’s Bakery, 1712 N. Vermont, Los Angeles, (213) 664-8445, carries a wide variety of Italian pastries, cookies and breads, including rum cake ( cassata ), bread sticks and anise cookies. Sarno’s restaurant, featuring Italian food and singing waiters, is next door.

Tutto Italia, 8657 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 659-0644, offers Italian and international foods.

MISCELLANEOUS

Federico’s Bakery, 1810 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, (818) 795-4484, formerly Sven’s Bakery, is one of the rare shops in the area doing authentic Danish kransekage (tall, almond-ring cookie Christmas trees) if ordered ahead.

Jaynel Dutch Imports, 3113 West 6th St., Los Angeles, (213) 389-8807. Ann’s Dutch Store, 4357 Tujunga Ave., Studio City, (818) 985-5551.

Hollinda Co., 9544 Las Tunas Drive, Temple City, (818) 286-9981. Dutch foods and imports.

European Deluxe Sausage Co., 9109 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, (213) 276-1331, has many homemade sausages such as salami, blood sausage, bologna and braunschweiger.

Vienna Pastry, 1215 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (213) 395-6728, has stollen and most German-style pastries.

GENERAL

Flying Foods Warehouse, 1225 Broadway, Santa Monica, (213) 395-1783, carries a range of fresh fish, fruits and vegetables from France, the Netherlands, Ireland, Scotland, Norway, Spain, Indonesian, Senegal and New Zealand.

Chez Panache, 444 N. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton, (714) 526-6633. This food emporium carries a full line of fresh and packaged foods from around the world. There also are restaurants within the complex.