Trekking Sand Dunes And Old Guadalupe

Not all of California’s grand sand dunes are in the desert at Death Valley. You’ll discover some of the state’s most spectacular sand piles along the ocean east of Guadalupe.

That farm community in the Santa Maria River Valley is flanked by two side roads leading to a pair of scenic coastal parks and the rolling dunes. You’re welcome to climb the huge white mounds near Oso Flaco Lake in Pismo Dunes State Recreation Area.

At Guadalupe Dunes Beach Park visitors speculate about the location of Cecil B. DeMille’s lost Egyptian city, an enormous movie set that lies buried beneath the sand. It was constructed in 1923 for the film maker’s silent epic, “The Ten Commandments.”

Where 1,500 actors once performed in a mock-Nile Valley setting, the wind-swept scenery is enjoyed by fishermen, surfers and bird watchers.

Hungry visitors have only to retreat a few miles inland to Guadalupe for barbecue steaks or Basque food. And if you decide to stay overnight, the historic Santa Maria Inn is nearby and recently has been restored to its former prominence.

Get to the dramatic coastal dunes from Los Angeles by driving north on U.S. 101 through Santa Barbara County to the Santa Maria exit for California 166 West/Guadalupe. Turn left and head west on Main Street out of town through the farm fields to the junction with California 1.

Across the road are angelic monuments in a cemetery that mark Guadalupe’s Italian-speaking immigrants who arrived a century ago from the Swiss canton of Ticino bordering Italy. The gravestones tell of the town’s other early settlers, Portuguese, and later the Japanese.

Recreation Area

Before visiting Guadalupe, continue west to a Santa Barbara County recreation area, Guadalupe Dunes Beach Park. Hours are 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.; no four-wheel-drive or off-road vehicles are permitted. Check in at the control gate.

Stay on the access road (no parking allowed along the way) to the paved parking lot at the ocean’s edge. Sand dominates the scenery except to the north where cows graze in the green valley of the Santa Maria River. Its estuary is a haven for migratory birds and for bird watchers.

You’ll also see pumps that mark a sand-covered oil field, but there are no clues to the location of the pharaoh’s city created by DeMille. Four statues of Ramses II and 21 sphinxes dominated its false front that rose to 110 feet and ran the length of 2 1/2 football fields.

The set was collapsed and buried after filming and was forgotten until 1984 when two Los Angeles men began making plans to excavate it. But until the dig is funded, everything remains under the sand. To discourage souvenir hunters, the site is unmarked; it’s also on private property that is patrolled.

From the beach park you can hike about two miles south along the beach (no vehicles permitted) to 450-foot Mussel Rock, the highest single sand dune on the West Coast.

There’s easier access to the tallest series of dunes in the state a few miles north. Return to California 1, head north through Guadalupe, then go left on Oso Flaco Lake Road. It enters Pismo Dunes Recreation Area and dead-ends in a parking lot.

From there a path leads between two small lakes to the immense white Oceano Dunes. You can scale their sandy heights for some remarkable views, but be certain to keep any children in sight. Beware of dune slip-faces that easily give way under foot.

Also be warned that going up and down the dunes to reach the ocean can be exhausting. An easier way to the shore is via a path to the left that skirts the base of the dunes.

You may hear the noise of dune buggies but they’re restricted to off-road vehicle areas just to the north. If you need directions or any assistance, look for the rangers who patrol on horseback.

If you’ve worked up an appetite, return to Guadalupe to any of four popular dining spots along California 1, the main drag that’s also called Guadalupe Street. Don’t be put off by the appearance of the eateries.

The Far Western Tavern is famous for its live oak barbecue steaks, but you have to pass the rustic bar and local drinkers to reach the large family dining room at the rear. Chicken, chops and seafood also are on the menu. Open daily from 10 a.m. Ranch-style breakfast served Sundays from 9 a.m. Make dinner reservations: (805) 343-2211.

A Vintage Hotel

Dinner only is available across the street at Basque House, a vintage hotel that’s been remodeled to serve family-style meals Thursday through Sunday beginning at 5 p.m. (4 p.m. Sunday). Choose an entree of lamb, beef, chicken or fish, all accompanied by soup, salad, vegetables, salsa and beans. Call (805) 343-1877.

Also along Guadalupe Street you’ll find La Simpatica dishing up Mexican food daily from 8 a.m., except Monday. And Bud Wong’s New York restaurant features Cantonese dishes for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday.

Returning east on California 166 to Santa Maria and going south a few blocks on Broadway takes you to a towering monkey puzzle tree and the Landmark Restaurant & Lounge.

It’s known for Santa Maria-style barbecue beef family dinners served in the basement from 5 to 8:30 p.m. on Wednesdays only. Upstairs in this remodeled Victorian mansion a continental menu is offered nightly. Reservations: (805) 928-7676.

Another favorite drinking and dining place is across the street at the Santa Maria Inn, a renowned roadhouse of early automobile days that accommodates travelers in a new 100-room tower. Rooms in the original building have been renovated too.

Double rates are $62-$68, $74-$80 in the tower; no charge for children under 12 in the same room with parents. Suites range from $72 to $350 (for five bedrooms). Reservations: (805) 928-7777 or toll-free (800) 447-3529.

To return to Los Angeles, rejoin U.S. 101 south.

Round trip from Los Angeles to the sands of time at Guadalupe is 358 miles.