A Lighter Look to Brunch Favorites of New England

The traditional puddings and pies of New England are wonderful comfort food, but demand a cool day and a brisk walk. So the last time I was there I was delighted to find some of my old favorites had taken on a new, lighter look.

Oysters were hidden in spiced tomato juice instead of chowder. The classic combination of apples and cheese appeared as an omelet, and Indian pudding was transformed as a puffy souffle. Perfect fare for brunch.

The menu opens with the classic bloody Mary cocktail, but with a difference. The familiar spiced tomato mix is laced with clam juice, and a jumbo oyster nestles at the bottom of the glass for spearing with a cocktail stirrer or fork. The traditional measure of vodka adds zest, but is by no means obligatory.

A Tasty Omelet

Brunch would not be complete with eggs. In this menu they are cooked into a giant omelet flavored with caramelized apple slices. When the omelet is set, the top is sprinkled with herb-and-garlic cream cheese, then broiled to a bubbling brown. This omelet can be kept waiting and served at room temperature, like a Spanish tortilla.

When I first tasted Leek-Potato Terrine, I was intrigued because it resembled molded vichyssoise. With a bit of experimenting, I came up with the following recipe in which the vegetables are bound with a custard of eggs and cream so they bake to a firm terrine, which slices neatly for serving. The mold is lined with green and white leek skins for color, whereas a sauce of cream and chopped chives enhances the vichyssoise image.

I’ve long been a lover of Indian pudding. This souffle version has all the flavor and none of the weight of the original. The classic cornmeal, molasses and milk mixture is cooked in the oven until thick. Then whipped egg whites are added and the pudding is baked again to the characteristic fluffy texture of a souffle.

BRUNCH IN NEW ENGLAND FOR 6 Cape Codder Cocktail Herb Cheese - Apple Omelet Leek and Potato Terrine Souffle Indian Pudding Suggested drinks: sparkling domestic or imported rose wine, coffee

Up to three days ahead, bake the terrine, then refrigerate. Cook the Indian pudding, but do not add egg whites, then refrigerate.

As long as two hours before serving, chill the wine. Set the table.

As long as one hour before serving, prepare the oysters in glasses, then refrigerate. Fry the apples for the omelet.

About 20 minutes before serving, reheat the terrine in a water bath on top of the stove.

About 10 minutes before serving, cook the omelet, then keep warm. Unmold the terrine, slice, cover and keep warm. Make the chive sauce.

Just before serving, finish the cocktails.

After serving cocktails, complete the souffle pudding, then bake. Pour the chive sauce over the terrine, then serve.

CAPE CODDER COCKTAIL

1 jumbo shucked oyster, or more

1/4 teaspoon celery salt

1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Few drops hot pepper sauce

2 tablespoons vodka, optional

2 to 3 ice cubes

1/3 cup tomato juice

2 tablespoons bottled clam juice

1 slice lemon

Place oyster in 8-ounce highball glass. Add celery salt, Worcestershire and hot pepper sauce. Glass can be covered and refrigerated up to 1 hour in advance.

Just before serving, add vodka and ice cubes. Top with tomato and clam juices. Stir, then add lemon slice. Serve with cocktail stirrers or small fork for spearing oyster. Makes 1 cocktail.

Note: Jumbo shucked oysters come 12 to 14 per pint. For oyster lovers, add more oysters to bottom of glass.

HERB CHEESE-APPLE OMELET

12 eggs

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup butter

2 tart apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sugar

5 ounces herb-flavored soft cheese

Whisk eggs in large mixing bowl just until mixed with salt and pepper to taste.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch skillet. Add apples. Sprinkle with sugar. Toss apples to coat. Fry briskly, stirring occasionally, until caramelized and brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Apples can be fried up to 1 hour ahead.

Heat remaining butter in another 12-inch skillet until beginning to brown. Add eggs. Stir briskly with flat side of fork until eggs start to thicken. Add apples. (If using nonstick surface, apples can be fried in skillet and eggs added to them.)

Quickly, but carefully, pull cooked egg mixture from sides of pan to center, then tip pan so uncooked mixture flows to sides. Continue about 2 minutes until egg is thickened, but still very soft. Continue cooking, without stirring, 20 seconds more to brown bottom of omelet.

Sprinkle cheese on top of omelet. Broil until cheese is melted and eggs are firm. Cut into 6 wedges. Serve immediately. Omelet can be kept warm as long as 15 minutes or cooked up to 2 hours ahead and served at room temperature. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Boursin is best known of herb-garlic cheeses, but other versions exist, often homemade by individual delicatessens.

LEEK-POTATO TERRINE

1 1/2 pounds potatoes, unpeeled

2 pounds leeks

2 tablespoons butter

Salt, pepper

3 eggs

1 3/4 cups whipping cream

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons chopped chives

6 tomato roses for garnish, optional

Wash and dry potatoes, then pierce. Bake at 375 degrees until tender, 45 to 60 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim roots and tops from leeks, leaving some green. Split leeks lengthwise. Wash thoroughly under running water. Peel off outer layers to make 10 to 12 sheets. Finely slice interior.

Blanch leek layers by boiling in salted water 5 minutes. Grease 8 1/2-inch loaf pan. Drain leeks. Rinse with cold water. Drain thoroughly. Use to line loaf pan, reserving a few for top. Melt butter in 2-quart saucepan. Add sliced leeks with salt and pepper to taste. Press piece of foil on top. Cover with lid. Cook very gently, stirring occasionally, 15 to 20 minutes or until leeks are very tender. Do not allow to brown.

When potatoes are tender, remove from oven. Reduce heat to 350 degrees. Split potatoes. Scoop out pulp, crush with fork on tray so steam escapes. Coarsely mash pulp to give terrine texture. Let potatoes cool, then mix with sliced leeks.

Whisk eggs until mixed. Whisk in 3/4 cup cream, nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Stir into potato mixture. Taste to adjust for seasonings. Pour mixture into lined loaf pan. Smooth top. Cover with reserved leeks.

Set loaf pan in larger pan of water. Add boiling water to come halfway up sides of loaf pan. Bake until terrine is firm and skewer inserted in center comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool in loaf pan. Terrine can be kept up to 3 days, covered, in refrigerator.

Not more than 20 minutes before serving, reheat terrine in water bath on top of stove.

Whisk chives into remaining 1 cup cream with salt and pepper to taste. Bring just to boil. Taste to adjust for seasonings.

Unmold terrine. Cut in 3/8-inch slices. Arrange slices overlapping on platter or on individual plates. Cover and keep warm up to 20 minutes. Just before serving, reheat chive sauce. Spoon sauce over terrine slices. Decorate with tomato roses and serve. Makes 6 servings.

Note: In summer, this pate is excellent served cold with fresh tomato sauce.

SOUFFLE INDIAN PUDDING

1 quart milk, about

1/3 cup cornmeal

3/4 cup dark molasses

1/4 cup butter, cut into pieces

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

6 egg whites

3 tablespoons sugar

Bring milk to boil in 2-quart saucepan. Remove from heat. Sift cornmeal over milk. Stir until smooth. Set pan in water bath. Cook gently 25 to 30 minutes, stirring often, until mixture is consistency of thin cream. Grease 2-quart shallow baking dish.

Remove cornmeal mixture from heat. Stir in molasses, butter, salt and ginger until butter is melted. Pour into baking dish. Bake at 325 degrees, stirring often, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours or until mixture is thick enough to fall easily from spoon.

Turn pudding mixture into bowl. Stir until smooth. Let cool until tepid. Pudding can be prepared up to 3 days ahead, covered and refrigerated.

Increase oven heat to 375 degrees. Wipe out baking dish, then grease again. If necessary, reheat pudding on top of stove until hot to touch, stirring constantly and adding more milk if mixture is thick.

Stiffly beat egg whites. Add sugar. Continue beating 30 seconds until whites are glossy. Stir about 1/4 of whites into warm pudding until thoroughly mixed. Add mixture to remaining whites. Fold together as lightly as possible.

Transfer mixture to baking dish. Continue baking until pudding is firm and puffed, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.